Uncovering central Christchurch, the city that changes regularly
Everyone loves a punt down the River Avon with the ducklings in spring
The Christchurch Botanic Gardens are beautiful at any time of year but in late winter/early spring they are particularly atmospheric. Daffodils and snow drops shine and dance on the grassy banks of the River Avon and on the gardens trees buds burst with blossom. As the sun gradually warms the land the ducks become more active on the waterside. Spending a couple of hours wandering through the gardens is a rewarding way to start any weekend in the South Islands largest city. The Botanic Garden is encircled by Hagley Park. It’s long green stretches are home to numerous sporting events, a golf course and several walking and cycling tracks. On Rolleston Avenue you will find Hagley Park and the gated entrance to the Botanic Gardens. You will also discover the Canterbury Museum. Free to enter, although they do encourage a donation, the museum has numerous permanent displays on offer, including historical Maori artefacts and even a walking street representing how the city used to be. They also offer some excellent temporary exhibits. Recent ones includes the world press photograph of the year, Squawkzilla, featuring the oversize birds of ancient New Zealand and one about the Our Moon, then now and beyond, including a large blown up replica on display.
Across the road from the museum is the Art Centre which is in the process of a massive restoration project following significant damage after the 2011 earthquake. Parts of the centre have now reopened and these include a cinema and wine bar as well as several cafes and an information area.
Christchurch Botanic Gardens in Spring time
Continue further into town and you will again encounter the pretty River Avon. Besides the river is the new Oxford Terrace entertainment precinct, known purely as The Terrace. It is home to numerous excellent restaurants and bars. Grab a pew and enjoy a drink whilst people watching. The tram clatters past on a regular basis as it circulates the city centre. An entertaining commentary is provided by the tram drivers. Discounted multi attraction tickets can be bought which include the tram, a punt on the Avon or a trip up the cable car.
Top tip: Amazonita at The Terrace does particularly good food and exquisite cocktails. Fat Eddies opens for afternoon jazz and down the alleyway the Irish bar, The Fiddler offers a cosy atmosphere and great Guiness.
A short stroll from The Terrace is Cashel Street the main Christchurch shopping area. Riverside market is located here.
Further along is the department store Ballantynes and the new The Crossing area. The Crossing is home to H&M, Witchery, Coffee Culture and a supermarket.
A foodie weekend in New Zealand's second city Christchurch
Riverside Market in the heart of Christchurch is a buzzing spot to wander around - be sure to visit when you are hungry….
You can argue as to which is NZ’s first city, Auckland or Wellington - Auckland is the busiest with the largest concentration of people whilst Welly is the capital and arguably the countries beating heart.
Regardless of this North Island fight, Christchurch is most definitely the countries second city - the largest on the South Island and second only to Auckland in terms of population. It’s a city on the up, recovering from a number of natural and man-made incidents over the last few years that would arguably rip the heart out of most. Despite of, or maybe because of this, its a city rapidly embracing change and eager to try new things. Over recent years so many new cafes, bars and eateries have emerged that the city has become a great place for us foodie types to while away a couple of days. There are the local favourites, C1 Expresso, Dux Dine, Fiddlesticks that still remain popular - these are now interspersed with new kids on the block - such as Amazonita, Miro and Crockett. Then there are the new dessert bars that have opened not to mention Riverside Market which is a haven for food lovers from all walks of life and spending desires.
A Saturday morning in Christchurch should begin with a trip to a market - there are several great options to choose from but I particularly recommend Riccarton Market, Lyttelton Farmers Market and of course the permanent Riverside Market. Riccarton showcases local produce within the grounds of Riccarton House. It’s an idyllic setting with the only problem being the parking - it’s mainly off road and you have to hunt around the side streets to find parking in spaces in front of locals houses. It can sometimes mean a bit of a stretch of the legs to the market but that probably isn’t a bad thing once you get there and start consuming - believe me your eyes will be bigger than your belly. All manner of stores sell great local produce ranging from posh porridge, to famous bacon butties, to Italian cheeses and Cornish pasties…You really are spoiled for choice. After browsing the many market stalls take a seat by the side of the river and watch the ducks and sometimes eels swim by. The grounds are also home to a small section of native bush which is surrounded by a large fence to protect it from outside pests. A circuit walk takes you through a forest representative of how Canterbury once was, before we humans arrived and cut it all down for farming. It’s a heart warming place and leaves you mourning the loss of such places.
Lyttelton Farmers Market is a held on a Saturday morning also and although smaller in scale is probably just as good. There is a first rate bread stall selling the best bagels I have possibly ever tasted. There are numerous local vegetable growers and sellers, fish mongers and cheesemongers. Heck you can even enjoy samples from a local winery. The main street is closed to traffic so you can mingle through the crowds and there are numerous coffee shops to enjoy a break. There is usually an excellent band providing some entertainment as you browse. I love taking my shopping list to Lyttelton, filling my bags then going to grab some breakfast or morning tea at one of the cosy cafes nearby. My particular favourites are Coffee Culture and Super, and I’ll come to these two in a later article.
Riverside Market is in central Christchurch and has only opened very recently. It’s a mecca for all the great and good food stalls. You could spend the whole day here and still not try everything. It’s home to the wonderful Bohemian Bakery (try the Portuguese tarts), a Mediterranean Deli, and green grocers. There is even a machine to recycle and fill your glass milk bottles. Snack wise choose from authentic dosas from India, Malaysian Street Food, Greek souvlaki, freshly made donuts or cookies. Heck, there is even a Turkish shop selling delectable Turkish delight.
So any of these options are a great way to spend a Saturday morning, but how about an afternoon in Christchurch? Want to discover more about the cities top foodies spots, I’m happy to share ideas in my next post shortly…..
Rebuilding Christchurch, the city that never gives in
Nothing beats a stroll through Christchurch’s Botanic Gardens before a hearty brunch in the city at any time of year.
Christchurch must be the most resilient city in New Zealand, maybe even the entire planet. Given what it has had to deal with over the past 10 years it’s a wonder that it continues to flourish and develop as it does. A devastating earthquake, an appalling terrorist attack and now a virus pandemic must have caused even the most resilient local to pause for a moment and reflect. But kudos to them despite all of the above their city is well worth a visit.
A city break in Christchurch can be as action packed or sedate as you require it to be. The city is home to many new shopping areas and eateries. It has the countries largest urban park smack bang in its centre and surely nothing can beat sitting back and enjoying a punt along the River Avon, or a morning stroll through the elegant Botanic Gardens.
And if the above all sounds a touch sedate for you, head up to the Port Hills for wind swept walks aplenty. Other option are a downhill mountain bike track with views galore, a spectacular zipline or a land yacht experience in a drift cart.
I’ll tackle all the many action packed attractions to be found in Christchurch and its surrounding area in future blogs, but for now I’ll focus on the rebuild and what great attractions can be found in the city without really trying too hard.
The first event to partake in when you arrive in Christchurch, apart from a stroll around Hagley Park, is an indulgent brunch. Come on who doesn’t love a great brunch? And Christchurch has some fantastic brunch spots to enjoy - Miro, a small Italian is cosy and comforting with real wood fires and some creative culinary delights. C1 Espresso is worth a trip just to try to find the bathrooms (behind the bookshelf) or work out the water dispenser (which is the sewing machine). Antigua Boat Shed Café does awesome coffee and is situated in the only survivor of the original boat sheds which were built along the River Avon. You can’t miss the green and white building which is also the spot to hire a canoe or take one of those relaxing punts from. Another personal favourite of mine is Fiddlesticks. just across the road from the Art Centre. It does amazing Mimosas - enough said.
Talking of the Art Centre, this should really be on your itinery when visiting Christchurch. It is slowly reopening in parts as the massive rebuild following the 2011 Earthquake continues. The Art Centre is home to numerous buildings, most of which are heritage listed. It’s worth a wander through. A short walk from Hagley Park is Canterbury Museum. Now I’m not a massive fan of museums, I usually get bored after an hour or so in even the most enlightening ones, this place however is great. It’s full of interesting exhibits and even has an old village set up to take you back to a time gone by.
Christchurch is a compact city so it’s not hard to wander around. If you do want to take the weight of your feet though the heritage tram tinkles around it’s central circuit on a regular basis. The City Promenade is an excellent spot to wander along. It takes you past The Terrace and Riverside Market place that are the new and bustling eating and drinking areas in the central city. It continues alongside the River Avon to pretty Victoria Square and the Christchurch Casino.
If you head down Cashel Street you will come to lots of new shopping precincts and the local department store, Ballantynes. There is a brand new Hoyts cinema nearby offering state of the art technology and recliner seats to enable you to watch that latest Hollywood blockbuster in style. Cathedral Square is worth a stroll too - the ruins of Christchurch Cathedral stand as a reminder of what the city has suffered whilst the sparkling glass panelled buildings springing up all around it reflect the considerable rebuild being undertaken. One of these is the new city library. Isaac Theatre Royal is a living monument to the past, an icon still standing in a new modern city. It fortunately had earthquake strengthening work carried out a few years before so survived despite suffering significant damage. Just around the corner from the Theatre you’ll find New Regent Street with its art deco pastel coloured terraced buildings dating back to the 1930’s. its an elegant spot to wander down and some of the cities best food and drink venues are located here.
After wandering the city streets you will return to your hotel exhausted yet exhilarated. There are finally plenty of hotel options in the central city, some of the best are the Crowne Plaza and The Distinction Hotel. The Heritage is also a top choice and all three are located in the heart of the action. Enjoy a good nights sleep as tomorrow there are beaches, mountains and hot pools to explore……