Being woken by a screaming Kiwi (the bird type) on Stewart Island

I knew there were Kiwis nearby - of the bird variety that is. Stewart Island is home to thousands more of them than people.

Camping at Port William between the bush and the beach

I’d arrived at Port William Campsite late in the afternoon after completing the first (and my absolute favourite part) of the 3-day Rakiura Track Great Walk. (Another article coming soon folks). Before sunset I had used the time to fix up my tent, have some tea and stroll down the stunning beach right in front of the campsite several times taking in the serenity. It was a stunning, cloudless evening out to sea with a few clouds building up over the bush behind. A Department of Conservation Hut was nearby but apart from that it was just me, the beach and the dense rainforest I had previously hiked through as a backdrop. Information signs informed me that there were Kiwi in the area, but this was no surprise as Kiwi are known for being everywhere on Stewart Island. As I prepared for my night’s sleep, keen to get much needed rest before another early start in the morning, I kept my eyes peeled hoping to catch a glimpse of an early riser. Kiwis are nocturnal and notoriously difficult to spot being extremely shy. Some sightings have been made on Stewart Island though in the daylight hours. However, with the persistently annoying sandflies now replaced by mosquitos and my legs beginning to ache I decided to call it a night and tucked myself in my sleeping bag, falling to sleep with the rolling sound of the waves a short distance away. It was only a short while later I was awoken by the sound of disturbance outside my tent. On my ownsome in the middle of nowhere my mind began to play tricks. Maybe the local madman was outside eager to make me his latest victim! As my senses took hold, and my common-sense too I realised that something was busy pecking around my tent. Now this is not so unusual, and it has happened to me before camping out in the remote New Zealand bush but previously it had been a cheeky Weka that was keen to pinch my tent pegs or raincoat or indeed anything else left unattended that it could get its claws on. This time the snuffling sounded different. Still persistent as I heard pecking around my head at the top of the tent. There was something out there and it seemed intent on breaking in!

Leaving only footprints….and kiwi tracks

I lay completely still unsure what to do. Should I make a noise and perhaps alert it to my presence? Or lay rigid as I was curious as to what it might do next and whether my tent would remain in once piece come morning. I opted for the latter and was rewarded with more sniffling and pecking that went on a good wee while. I think my tent was well and truly checked out. Then suddenly a shrill shriek pierced the silence, right next to my left ear! It penetrated through the still, silent air like nothing I have ever heard. I later found out that this was the calling call for the Kiwi male when he is looking for a partner. What a noise, what a night, what an experience. The only time I have wanted to be terrified in the remote bush alone in a tent - there is a story in that….

The following morning, I followed my Kiwi trail down the beach. My new friend had left his tracks that eventually tapered off into the rainforest. I couldn’t see him, but I’m certain he had his beady eye on me.

Bannockburn Rail Trail, possibly New Zealand's most scenic bike ride

Welcome to the most scenic bike ride in the world! Am I exaggerating? To be honest I’m not. This trail very possibly fits this label perfectly. If you enjoy getting out on your bike and love spectacular scenery, then this one is for you. There is also the not so little added bonus of a winery, floating coffee stop and burger bar on route - there I got you on those! What more to like?

Whilst many do the trail on a normal mountain bike, unless you are a super keen cyclist or just enjoy punishing yourself unnecessarily, I would recommend hiring an electric bike. There are numerous bike rental outlets at both ends of the track happy to kit you out for the day and also offer you return transfers if required. The trail can be ridden either way, but I chose to base myself in Cromwell to hire the bike from the old town. This meant I could begin the trail at the lake side of Cromwell Old Town and meander my way along to the most scenic points. And boy was it scenic. Following the lake you wind your way towards the Kawarau River. Crossing a bridge by the cycle path you make your way up to the Carrick Winery. Not surprisingly this tends to be a busy spot, with other bike trail users and walkers. Its worth it though as the grass front of Carrick is scattered with picnic tables, chairs and stools where you can purchase a coffee, pizza or even a glass of their pinot noir and take in the stunning views laid out in front of you. It’s a great stopping point to rest up and appreicate the landscape. After refreshments its in the saddle again to head into Cromwell Gorge. Alongside the Clutha River the cycleway has many sections built out around the sheer rock faces towering above. The building of the track is as staggering as the beauty. Around one corner Coffee Afloat awaits you. A now famous coffee outlet housed on a boat that has been moored up alongside the track - my fellow cyclists informed me that the coffee was very good. It’s understandable how popular it is and a real gathering point for many users of the trail. The calories should you partake in one of their burgers (which are served up on another boat just a short distance away) are required to undertake the next part of the track which takes you up the Cairnmuir Ladder. This Ladder contains numerous switch backs that take you gradually up to the tracks highest point - well worth having the electric bike at this point I can assure you as it is quite a grunt.

Hugo Bridge on the Lake Dunston Trail

As you peddle further along you take in yet more splendid eye-popping views and reach the Hugo Suspension Bridge. Take a picnic with you as there are numerous good spots for a break around here. Continue down the track and you reach the third largest hydro-dam in New Zealand - the Clyde Dam. You then follow the track across the Clyde Road Bridge to little historic Clyde where numerous cafes welcome you. My recommendation is Olivers - which I’ll write about shortly.

Soaring above the glaciers at Franz Josef

As the noise levels increased and we gradually rose high above the ground my heart was in my mouth. I’m not sure what I was expecting exactly as I took my seat by the window of the helicopter, but I was praying that the seal of the door I found myself squashed up beside was tightly secure. As we soared up and across the valley the landscape beneath me became way more dramatic.

The valley leading up to Franz Josef that I had previously walked through

I had walked through this valley before, chasing the river along the pathway that had been created to reach a viewing point looking out towards Franz Josef Glazier, but I had never imagined how incredible it could appear from the air. As we approached the glacier wall down below us it became all too apparent how small we and our helicopter actually were. Franz Josef is a towering flow of ice which has dramatically melted in recent years disappearing further down the valley that it has ever done before and yet as you approach from the air it remains a formidable and awe-inspiring sight.

Franz Josef Glacier from the air

After traversing along the glacier trail our helicopter then lifted upwards over and above the towering wall of ice beneath. As we ventured up towards the clouds our pilot spoke into our headphones pointing out the towering heights off Mount Cook/Aoraki and Mount Tasman straight ahead, New Zealand’s two largest mountains. Our flight took us up and above their signature peaks. I felt small and fragile and admittedly slightly nervous wondering how high we were. Climbing over yet another mountain top we reached the second of New Zealand’s most famous glaciers, Fox.

Soaring above New Zealand’s highest peaks

For those not in the know, Franz Josef and Fox Glacier are two famous mountains to sea glaciers that are found on the South Island’s West Coast. They are relatively close together and are unique in that they reach rainforest level and are therefore much more accessible than other glaciers found across the world. The snow at the top here looked deep and dense packed into a frozen platform several thousand metres above the ground below. We slowly descended down on to a landing patch where our pilot encouraged us to look out over this beautiful yet imposing landscape.

Our helicopter after landing on the snow on top of Fox Glacier

We took pictures of ourselves and our helicopter. The helicopter helping to show the vastness of the glacier and mountains as it sat like a small dot against the panorama that surrounded it.

You feel impossibly small in such a landscape

Saturdays and the hot pools

New Brighton, a coastal settlement just north of Christchurch is hardly the stuff of New Zealand dreams. In comparison to Sumner further down the coast it’s on the rough and ready side although that would be to ignore its obvious future potential. For anywhere in such a picturesque spot on the South Island coast must surely have endless possibilities. Christchurch council have recently opened a hot pool by the beach at New Brighton and it’s turning into some success story. One glance and it’s not difficult to see why. The pools complex is right by the beach, overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean. It’s also a short stroll from the New Brighton Pier - a landmark that juts out into the sea - a bit likes its older name's sake in the United Kingdom.

Looking back to New Brighton and its Hot Pools from the Brighton Pier

The hot pools operate an online booking system where you can book slots throughout the day. Each slot is for a couple of hours and there are four to choose from depending on your preferred arrival time. I preferred an early start and opted for the 10am session. This enabled me to check out the onsite cafe, ‘Saturday’s’ first. I’d read a few good reviews about the cafe and was keen to try out its range of breakfast options even though ironically, I was visiting on a Sunday - good to know it opens both weekend days. The signs were promising as it was already busy with a few tables taken when I arrived - I was pleased I’d booked ahead.

My beautifully presented breakfast from ‘Saturdays’

The food was tasty and beautifully presented. The chef here in the busy kitchen obviously cares deeply about making food look as good as it tastes. I’m certainly a fan. With suitable sustenance I headed to join the queue for when the hot pools opened. I was greeted with a friendly welcome at reception and pointed in the direction of the changing rooms. There were a few options, of men’s and women’s communal rooms, families shared rooms and individual cubicles. The floor beneath my feet was heated which was a nice touch on a cold winters morning with a wind blowing off the sea. There are lockers to leave your belongings, or you can choose to put them away in one of the side containers which was the most popular choice I noticed. Shivering I headed across to the steaming water. The top pool had a bench seat where you were able to sit relaxing in the warmth of the water looking out over the beach and ocean beyond. The water was hot, and intoxicating compared to the weather, and I soon sank back, appreciating the views and allowing myself to relax and let the warmth envelope me. There are four other pools at the complex. There is even a plunge pool for those feeling brave and a sauna and steam room if you really want to relax. During the autumn and winter months the pools offer a ‘Sunrise Special’ and there are later Friday night adults only sessions available, but be sure to book well in advance, they are popular.

Dan happy as larry with his breakfast choice

Swimming with the Kaikoura Dusky Dolphins

It must surely be on everyone’s bucket list to swim in the ocean with a pod of wild dolphins. Well, that is what I managed to do over Xmas last year at the lovely New Zealand town of Kaikoura.

Dolphin Encounter Kaikoura

I peered down through my snorkel mask into the clear depths below. Suddenly there was movement underneath. Within touching distance was a mother dolphin and her calf both turning sideways seemingly to peer at the ungainly swimmer amongst them. After our eye-to-eye encounter there was a swish of the tail and they were gone again. But then another three, no four, no five, I lost count, of dolphins took their place. All of them seemed to swim right towards me, around me, under me, checking me out with their black piercing eyes. I was an enigma in their world just like they were in mine.

Sunrise at Kaikoura waterfront

It was a clear, bright summers morning when we set off from the harbour at the South Bay Marina. We’d been ordered to arrive at ‘Dolphin Encounter Centre’ early in order to be kitted out in our own wet suits, hoods and snorkels. A short presentation video then followed telling us about the area, the dolphins we would hopefully encounter and what to expect.

Dan outside the Dolphin Encounter building - a great cafe spot

And then it was all go, out on to buses to be driven the short distance through to town to our boats. Journeying out to sea the water was calm and clear. A great day to swim with the local dusky dolphins. We spotted seals, albatross and a vast array of other rare and not so rare seabirds.

The beautiful South Bay area of Kaikoura

But today was labelled ‘Dolphin Encounter’ for a reason and I sensed the excitement hitch up a notch when we started to sport a few fins surging across the water. Those of us on the boat who had elected to get into the water were told to get kitted up. This meant tightening our wetsuits, pulling on flippers and face masks and listening carefully to our crews instructions. We then shuffled into our directed spots on the back of the boat ready to launch ourselves. Perched squashed up tight we sat with barely concealed anticipation. Dolphins were everywhere, splashing, acrobatically throwing themselves out of the water chasing our boat. Someone besides me claimed there must be at least a thousand! Then the hooter we had been waiting for sounded from the cabin. Our captain was cutting the engines and we were ready. One by one we were instructed to enter the water and push ourselves quickly away from the boat. The cold water, even on a summer’s day, hit me first. I had on a buoyant wetsuit to keep warm, but the Southern Pacific Ocean rarely gets above 16 degrees in these parts. The sudden chill was instantly forgotten though as I put my head down and made first sighting of a dolphin. The dusky dolphins love to swim in large pods together and once in the water they are literally everywhere you turn as you find yourself swimming and splashing amongst them. Keep your head down they are constantly swimming beneath, around and towards you. It’s an incredible privilege to experience dolphin encounter. One that for days afterwards left a firm smile fixed on my face.

Locals in Kaikoura

A well deserved Iced Coffee outside the cafe at Dolphin Encounter

A seaside cafe with a difference - Bonobo

A special shout out from me goes to this corner cafe in the Christchurch beach town of Sumner.

This place is quite literally awesome and makes you appreciate that vegan food can be totally creative and super tasty. Even Dan has been won over by their imaginative sandwiches and burgers.

A Bonobo Burger - just yum

The owners of Bonobo have opened the cafe in order to raise funds to realise their dream of establishing an animal sanctuary. I am so happy to support them in their quest. This place is special. There is heaps of seating both inside and out. Inside the walls have been painted bright uplifting colours which cheer you up on even the dreariest days, and the food cabinet is crammed with a whole range of delicious, tasty treats to choose from. I would however recommend ordering from the main menu. There are so many amazing options that you can’t go wrong. Bagels with sundried tomato mouse and dukka covered avocado that does work, through too bang bang noodles and even a mushroom ragout with polenta

Possibly my favourite Sumner breakfast

The flavours and choices are delicious. Don’t forget those burgers - there is life with no meat!

5 Star Luxury at The George Hotel, Christchurch

The George is Christchurch's premier central hotel accommodation.

 I had visited for lunch in its restaurant previously but never had the opportunity to stay there. Now with the borders closed I jumped at the opportunity to experience this small piece of Canterbury luxury for myself.

 The hotel is situated in a perfect location, close enough to the central area to enjoy all the amenities but far enough away to experience some well earnt peace and quiet. Hagley Park sits just across the road with the Botanic Gardens a short walk further along. Some of the rooms overlook Hagley Park making it an idyllic setting.

Hagley Park and the River Avon just across the road from the hotel

On arrival I was greeted by both the concierge and receptionist who both went out of their way to ensure I was looked after and that they were attentive to my needs. I got the impression that these are people who are used to catering for the oddest of whims from some of their perhaps more demanding guests – I’ve stayed in enough hotels, I know the type, and I can imagine what their expectations are….

I was offered a coffee whilst someone went to check my room was ready and set up to the high standard demanded. It was a welcome touch. I was early for check in anyhow so their courtesy was very appreciated. So often you get the contrite response you are too early for your room come back later…

 The room itself – very comfortable, a queen bed, desk, two arm chairs and a fantastic bathroom with the most awesome of showers and some excellent and luxurious produce. They were also kind enough to provide spare toothbrushes and shaving kits in case any had been forgotten. My only complaint would be about the coffee machine, or rather lack of it. Yes there was plunger coffee but in this day and age you kind of expect a hotel of this standard to be offering the Nespresso.  Saying that they did provide the courtesy coffee at check in....

The communal accommodation was also excellent. A large lounge area offered lots of choice of seating from bar stools, to comfy sofas to high chairs. I took my time pondering the wine list – the choice was excellent for wine by the glass with a list of top New Zealand choices, such as Wooing Tree Rose, Amisfield Sav or Mt Beautiful Chardonnay, that was indeed beautiful. Sorry I didn’t get as far as the reds… next time.

 The restaurant was buzzing with both hotel guests and a lot of locals which is always a good sign. I’d already booked a restaurant elsewhere in town but I do know that 50 Bistro is good.

 The following morning I ordered room service for my room – a cappuccino and fresh croissants with jam were brought to my door right on time, and I sat in my arm chair enjoying my breakfast after a long lingering shower in that wonderful George bathroom.

the night time turn down included your own teddy bear called ‘George’

Favourite mention – the call out goes to the bed downturn service – I came back from dinner to a couple of chocolates and the loveliest of teddy bears sat on my pillow. He is called George and I was invited to take him home….. a real touch that takes a hotel from good to great, well done The George.

The George bear tale……

Spring days like these.......

There’s nothing like getting out in the open for some good old-fashioned fresh air when Springtime hits, it’s still the best tonic. The sun is out high in the sky, the daffodils nod towards you as you approach, and the trees burst with blossom and new leaves. Hagley Park is the place to head to, whether on your own two feet or if you prefer two wheels. Bikes are available to hire from the Antigua Boat Shed, located close by, and Scooters are lined up on the corners of the city streets. I prefer to stroll along the long length of pathways in the park. Criss crossing through, at one end you have a golf course and work out equipment, on the other a large duck pond which is always teeming with the local residents (of the feathered kind, of course!).

The River Avon flows through Hagley Park and the Botanic Gardens

Within Hagley Park is the Christchurch Botanic Gardens, the River Avon separates the two. There are bridges linking them and peaceful riverside walks to enjoy. The Gardens are home to an array of features including the oldest willow tree in Canterbury, two Victorian style glass houses, a café and numerous peaceful spots to relax and while away the hours. There are the New Zealand gardens, home to numerous native trees and bush, large grassy spots, and some very rare and attractive trees.

Spring flowers in the Christchurch Botanic Gardens

At the far end of the gardens is Curators House, an excellent Spanish restaurant with it’s own vegetable garden. On a summers day an outside table there is a prime spot to sit and linger, sample some excellent Spanish tapas whilst enjoying the tranquillty of the Botanic Gardens. The city seems a world away despite it being right on your doorstep.

Curators House in the Botanic Gardens, a great spot for some Spanish Tapas

After a morning wandering Hagley Park and the Botanic Gardens I love to make my way over to Sumner, the cities premier beach and seaside spot.  Scarborough and Clifton Beach here are huge stretches of sand that are perfect to spend an afternoon or evening wandering along. Across in the distance the tops of the Southern Alps Mountain Range peak out on the skyline and all around you are the tall cliff faces that frame this coastline.

The long stretches of Scarborough Beach, Sumner

A promenade runs the full length of Sumner linking it with Redcliffs beyond. It’s a popular spot for walking, running and cycling along. I love to enjoy a wind-swept walk across the sand before heading back into Sumner’s small town centre to either devour some delicious fish and chips or stop for a chai latte at one of the local cafes. All have outdoor seating to take advantage off on a warm afternoon.

Nothing blows off the winter cobwebs than a walk on the beach on a Spring Day

Camping - one of the most rewarding ways to appreciate the serenity of Marlbourough

Camping in the Marlborough Sounds is one of the most satisfying ways to get off the grid.

You don’t need much – simply a tent or a campervan – to get away and enjoy some of the most relaxing and appealing scenery to be enjoyed anywhere. Appreciating the serenity of the place and it’s unobtrusive lifestyle is what it is all about. Of course there are things to do here. There are some great hiking trails, some awesome mountain biking tracks, cruises to swim with the local pod of dolphins or appreciate this outstanding scenery from the water. Kayaking, sailing, even visits to local mussel farms. There is heaps to keep even the most motivated amongst us occupied. I will mention all these wonderful activities plus the best places to eat and hang out in a later blog. For now though the focus is on camping.

Marlborough Sounds

discover a different morning awakening

There is limited access to the Marlborough Sounds, roads are narrow, winding and long. Numerous remote campsites are available if you are prepared to venture out. A lot of the Department of Conservation campsites are only accessible by water however there are a number also available by road which makes it a great place to take a campervan.

Elaine Bay is one of the drivable campsites situated by the side of the water. There is a small reserve available for a small number of campers. A port operates close by so you can watch the boats servicing the nearby mussel farms head in and out. The water is also the launch point for many leisure boaties. It’s a peaceful spot and if you arise early enough you will be greeted to a warm sunrise across the water which is particularly atmospheric if there is a cloud or two around.

One of the many views from the campervan at Elaine Bay, Marlborough Sounds…….

Mountain biking an old rail trail, in an hour, a morning, a whole day or even the weekend.....

The weather was sunny and unusually warm for a winters day. Signs of spring were appearing everywhere with young lambs clambering around in fields, blossom on the trees, and the birds singing and chasing each other with greater ferocity.

I’d parked up at Lincoln to join the Little River Rail Trail. The whole trail is nearly 50km in length and is designed to be ridden over a day or so. It’s easily broken up into sections though and today I was starting in Lincoln to begin the trail through the quiet country roads and laneways, passing the lambs and horses grazing in the fields. Chickens were also encountered as they clucked their way about along the track.

After about 5km’s I came to the part of the trail that is off road, meeting up with the Halswell Canal that feeds the wetlands being redeveloped and planted in the area. Magpies nesting in the trees overhead came periously close to my head as I rode along, warning me to keep away from their territory and eggs. Besides the cycle track grasses teamed with life insects and bees buzzing in my ear. Paradise Shell Ducks called out their tune to one another, partnered up, the black heads are male and the white heads female, they are always together, as are groups of Pukeko, the royal blue coloured native birds with red beaks who seem so reluctant to fly even though they are clearly capable.

Little River Rail Trail can be completed in stages or one go - it’s great for both biking and walking

Eventually I came to a narrow bridge crossing the river taking me down a stone covered road past various houses and farms. A department of conservation nursery and campsite sat alongside the local race track. The Motokarara Station has been restored and relocated and sits as the entranceway for another section of the rail trail. I decided to turn back at this point to retract my bike ride to the car. This time I was cycling into the wind which made it slightly harder but the vision of the snow capped Southern Alps prominent in the distance on this clear day lured me onwards.

The Little River Rail Trail was established in the mid 2000’s and follows the former Little River Branch Railway Line that linked the farming area with Christchurch city centre. The line was operative between 1875 to 1967. Signs along the trail display details of its heritage.

Rakaia Gorge Walkway, a trip through the Canterbury Plains

I fancied an energetic weekend so after my bike ride Saturday morning along the Little River Rail trail I headed further west across the flat Canterbury Plains to the Rakaia Gorge. Grabbing a Hororata Pie on route for my lunch my journey took me to the picturesque gorge and it’s well maintained walkway.

The Rakaia Gorge walkway takes you through native New Zealand bush seemingly alive with birdsong and along an historic ferryman’s track which traverses the gorge edges.

The historic bridge crossing the Rakaia Gorge

The hike begins just at the side of the historic bridge which was built as a river crossing way back in 1882. As you head up into the bush you leave behind the traffic from the roadway beneath and are met with the calling sounds of the local bellbirds, wax eyes and fantails. You will undoubtably see many of them flying over pathway as you walk. The trail can be broken up into manageable sections or undertaken in one return loop. In total it takes about 3-4 hours to complete the return walk of just over 10km. Be warned some of the sections are steep in places and the footing can be uneven. There are some muddy spots where local springs run through and a shallow stream crossing to negotiate – so good solid walking boots are a necessity unless you enjoy wet feet!

The views that appear regularly as you stroll along are mightily impressive. The gorge is glacial with covered terraces but it has also been shaped by the Rakaia river that runs through it – the Rakaia is what is known as a New Zealand braided river meaning it is wide and can change shape depending on the amount of snow melt from the mountains feeding it. On a clear day you can follow the river right through the gorge to its mouth at the Pacific Ocean. It’s home to numerous trout and salmon in season so popular place to wade and fish. It’s also a top jet boating river being shallow and wide and quite often in summer time you can hear the whirl and snort of these boats as they whizz along beneath you. There is a commercial jet boat running along the river as well – it heads out from the car park at the start of the walk and is highly recommended. It’s fun, exhilarating and you get to venture a lot further down the river.

A peak through the bush along the walk

But back to my walk - the lower lookout spot is the first you come across where the views both ways up and down the river are quite something to behold, after a tough start to the walk it’s a popular spot to have a picnic or pause for thought. Further down the track you reach places where the pathway is literally carved out of the side of the cliff with steep drops down beneath. There is some farmland to cross before you reach Montane forest and shrub and come to a former coal mine tunnel which still has some old equipment left behind. It’s a short walk off the main track to this area.

The remainder of the walk up to the upper gorge lookout is largely uphill and is quite a slog in places. It’s well worth it though when you reach the end and witness the rugged mountain ranges towering up above. The perfect blue crystal clear water of the river surging through beneath on it’s way to the sea.

Upper gorge lookout

Rakaia Gorge, Canterbury

Kaikoura Fur Seal Adventures - part one, walking.........

Kaikoura is home to one of the largest populations of New Zealand Fur Seals in the country. It’s also one of the easiest and most accessible places to spot and observe seals given they are found in numerous places up and down it’s rocky coastline. Once hunted nearly to extinction the New Zealand Fur Seal is now legally protected and has made a miraculous recovery. Numbers are booming which means more seal encounters for everyone to enjoy.
There are several ways to interact with seals in the Kaikoura area and I will start with the most obvious and simple one – walking.

A young pup drying off on the rocks at Kaikoura

Point Kean Seal Sanctuary is found at the end of the road leading from the main centre of Kaikoura Township. If in doubt, follow the road alongside the coast and you will end up at the car park with no were else to go. The seals here used to be spotted in the car park itself, under cars and snoozing on the boardwalk. I have even encountered several plucky youngsters half way up the grassy cliff side. Since the 2016 earthquake that caused so much damage around these parts the land has changed. Point Kean itself has extended further out along the peninsula meaning that the seals have also spread out. Although you will always find a couple snoozing on the board walk by the car parks entrance as no matter what time of day they always seem to be there. Sometimes too you will hear a couple snorting underneath the wooden boardwalk panels as you walk over them. If you want to see the seals in larger numbers though, or indeed have closer encounters with some of the braver, more inquisitive babies continue to walk around Point Kean and under the large protruding cliff face. You may have to scramble over the jagged rocks around here being careful not to slip on some of the greasy seaweed (Kaikoura is famous for this and indeed the pungent smell regularly greets you on arrival, especially in summertime).

Once around this headland you will come upon a well-formed stony path alongside which are many snoozing seals. Trying to avoid the ones laying over the path itself is another matter – but they will snarl to warn you of their presence if you dare to get too close. – don’t, there will only be one winner and it won’t be you! Just about every rock and smooth surface around this headland is covered by the bulk of a seal, both big and small. The mothers are usually snoozing in between weaning their youngsters whilst the little ones wander about, play fighting with one another and looking for a sheltered rock pool in which to practice their swimming with twists and turns. I was merrily observing all the seals when I suddenly heard a heap of snorting and rustling behind me – I turned around anxious to not be in the way of a seal heading back to sea, when I spotted two babies chasing one another in and out of the long grasses up on the sloping hillside. They can be quite fearless these littlies.

Once you have exhausted Point Kean (the walk continues all the way around this spectacular headland to the South Bay) return to your car and drive north of State Highway One out of town. It’s a magnificent journey with the Kaikoura Mountain Range on one side and the vast Pacific Ocean on the other. As you reach the coast you will notice all the recent work that has been undertaken to rebuild the road. During the earthquake a sizeable amount of the cliff face collapsed across the road, with gigantic landslides taking out huge chunks of the highway. The road is now being rebuilt in what is a colossal effort of man and machine. Also rebuilt is Ohau Point – a pull off which provides a viewing platform over one of the most successful seal colonies in the area. The original was swept away in one of the landslides and this one has purposely been built to allow visitors to view the seals in closer proximity without causing them any disruption. Although as you peer down you do notice several peering back up at you with mild curiosity. Ohau Point enables you to get some idea of how big this colony has become – as you journey further up the coastline you encounter more and more seals. They are recovering very well. The colony is particularly successful as a nursery for the babies, there are numerous rock pools formed by the incoming tide here which provide safe havens for them to play, practice their fishing techniques and generally burn off that abundance of energy. It was this area that was famous for the stream that youngsters climbed up to a waterfall pool that they loved to play in - the pool is still there and no doubt the youngsters still visit but it’s out of bound for us humans at the moment due to the pathway having been badly damaged. At least the baby seals can now play safely without any human intervention.

Another day dawns in Kaikoura, New Zealand’s marine paradise

This chapter of my blog covers the walks available to observe the seals but there are several other ways to encounter these gorgeous and playful marine mammals around Kaikoura. These include swimming and kayaking and will be discussed shortly….
 

Walking along the beach at Kaikoura as the sun begins to set behind the mountains

Coming shortly, where to ride your own sled dog team in New Zealand

I’d arranged to meet up with Underdog NZ at 10.30am at the Snow Farm to start my tour. After a brief talk about what to expect I was taken across to meet the dogs, and what a greeting it was. It seems the dogs absolutely love these tours and get incredibly excited about it all. I was smothered in doggy loves very quickly. There were a mixture of Alaskan Huskies, Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes all keen to get started. My human guide gave me a brief outline on how to use the kart and a demonstration on how to control the dogs – yeah right, it was more the dogs controlling me I think, and we were all set up and ready to go. I started off cautious, pressing the break to check it was working and trying my hardest not to tangle up the reigns. Four animated and eager dogs were ready to pull me along and I was a bit nervous at first in case I fell off!!! The snow was smooth but compacted and I had visions of being dragged along on my stomach by four excited animals. My concerns didn’t last for long, well only until my hands could no longer cope with the discomfort of gripping on so tightly! Within a few minutes I was riding the cart like a professional – well in my opinion anyway - and we were off soaring across the snow-covered landscape as one. Well maybe not quite. I had to get off on any upwards slope to take the pressure off my four-legged friends and help push the cart. I also spent a significant amount of time trying not to get them all tangled together so that the back two didn’t trip over the front twos’ reigns – there was a lot of responsibility looking after these keen racers! None of this distracted from the sheer joy of directing my dogs as we ploughed across the snow. The setting was majestic with the perfect clear blue skies reflecting off the brilliant white of our snow-covered carpet….

Underdog NZ at the Snow Farm, Cardrona

How about an indulgent break in the Wairapa Region

Black Estate has won the New Zealand Winery Restaurant of the year at least twice and it’s no secret that this place is good. It’s very good. The small restaurant and wine tasting room is situated overlooking the vineyards and out across the valley. State Highway One is a short distance away but you would hardly notice. The chardonnay vines are a much more welcome distraction. The wine itself I can vouch is just as elegant and easy to consume as it’s setting.

The restaurant here has a small menu chalked up on a blackboard for perusal. All the ingredients used are grown locally. The vegetarian delights are often as good as the meat and fish varieties and teach you that flavour and taste come in all packages. Never miss a dessert here, on my last recent visit I indulged in a crumble and I swear it was the best ever.

The winery also has on site accommodation for a couple looking to indulge in the restaurant and then have that awesome view all to themselves later. It’s a good option as you will want that second glass of rose I promise - and waking up to that vineyard view is a sure winner.

Loving Little River, the gateway to the Banks Peninsula if worthy of a stay in it's own right

I’ll start with a statement - I love Little River, the small town on the Banks Peninsula nearly half way between Christchurch and Akaroa. At first glance this would seem a surprising statement as there really isn’t much at Little River. It’s a stopping off point for a bathroom break and/or refreshment. Yes sure there’s the lovely café with outdoor seating, the small art shop and fuel station. But that’s just the start, there is more, so much more.

Get out and about and you will uncover Okuti Valley, Birdlings Flat, Mongomery Scenic Reserve, French Farm and the Little River Rail Trail. There is also an excellent diner in town for breakfast, a stunning camp ground to sleep at and endless birdsong to enjoy. Heck there is even a silo to stay in if you so wish…..

Coming shortly more information about how to make the most of a fantastic few days in this peaceful and unexpectedly captivating location.

Shhhh, some secret New Zealand weekend escapes coming up as we begin to explore again

After many weeks stuck inside, metaphorically chained to our own kitchen sink, it’s time to head out again and rediscover New Zealand.

The trouble is where to go first and what to see. There has never been a better time to uncover this beautiful countries best spots, especially now there are no foreign visitors to our shore. We have NZ all to ourselves for most likely just a short while. We need to get out there and take it all in, see the top places empty of people parading iPhones and selfie sticks. But where do we go first and when? Well I have a few suggestions that might hopefully provide you with some ideas and inspiration.

Coming up:

See Lake Tekapo like it’s 1999…………

Journey the epic Milford Road without a tour bus in sight…….

Hike to a glacier lake on your own……..

Kayak with playful New Zealand Fur Seals…..

Surf with the world’s smallest dolphin……

Tuck into green lip mussels by a picturesque bay……

Encounter Kea in a mountain valley…..

Kaikoura and kayaking with the seals

Less than 3 hours scenic drive from Christchurch is the seaside township of Kaikoura. It’s the perfect short break after a hectic working week. Anchor Court Motel has reopened recently following damage suffered after the now famous 2016 earthquake. Directly across from the beach it’s floor to ceiling windows offer stunning views of the ocean complete with sunrise. This was the view from our room - we paid slightly more for a sea view but it was definitely worth the few extra dollars.

Kaikoura is a mecca for marine life and this is the main reason to visit. It also has some great food options which I’ll come to in a later blog. Folks head to Kaikoura to knock off some of those bucket list items which I’ll also get to later - swim with wild dolphins, learn to fly a plane, watch a sperm whale breach, even witness the mighty albatross fly overhead. It’s one of my very favourite places and an early morning start is always a must. Up early for the sunrise Dan and I headed out to meet the chaps from Kaikoura Kayaks, to hire a double sea kayak. They also do a few different guided trips which are well recommended but having done one of these previously we decided to head out on our own. After a very thorough safety briefing which came complete with some valuable information for future use we paddled out of South Harbour. The sea was smooth, the sky clear and the going fairly easy. We soon came across our first New Zealand Fur Seal lozenging around on the rocks. Up ahead more where in the water, rolling around attempting to cool off on this warm summers day. After a frantic paddle through the waves out at sea we reached Whalers Bay, only accessible by boat or foot. We kayaked through the shallow waters spotting fish and seaweed floating around in the clear waters beneath. Lots of seals were hanging out in this bay which is a popular area for the young males. They barked at one another a fair bit but were pretty laid back with us. We received a few odd looks and curious glances but on the whole they were more interested than bothered by our presence. As we approached the rocks some flopped down in the water, swimming closer to take a better look. We hung around on our own for quite a while until a Swim with the Seals boat appeared. Being so close to marine life, no matter how many times you’ve been lucky enough to experience it, is always a pinch me moment. Reluctantly we headed back to shore bidding farewell and wishing luck to our new found friends.

On the agenda.....

So, we’ve all just come out of 8 seemingly endless weeks of lockdown when we all got to know our local streets a little too well. I feel I’ve discovered more about my neighbours kids and pets that I ever desired too….I’m sure you all know that feeling?!

But now it’s a new dawn and a new type of normal for those of us living over here in the stunning picture postcard country that is called New Zealand. Jacinda has set us free and we the lucky few are itching to travel.

Over the coming days I will be posting ideas on what to do in Christchurch in winter time. How nothing beats fish and chips by the sea in the former French settlement of Akaroa, how Le Bons Bay on the Banks Peninsula takes seclusion to another gratifying level and how Fat Pippis at Hokitika positively rocks…..

More to come with some awesome ideas to get you planning shortly.