Mt Difficulty Winery in Bannockburn, Central Otago

One of my favourite wineries for tastings, if just for the stand out views alone. The Mt Difficulty cellar door sits in a stunning position atop a long, narrow and winding driveway. Perched high up above it offers majestic views out across it’s vineyards, the Bannockburn Valley, and to indeed it’s namesake Mt Difficulty.

Wine tasting is a couple of dollars - free if you purchase - and you get to choose five wines from quite a substantial list. I opted for choices from their ‘dry whites’ which included delicate Otago Sauvignon Blanc, a complete contrast to its Marlborough compatriot, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.

I should mention that there is also a Pinot Noir menu to opt for at an increased cost of $20. Given that this region is famous for it’s Pinot Noir it’s probably a popular choice.

Just beyond the wine tasting area is an outside deck which opens up to capture those stupendous views. There are several table and chairs to relax in whilst you enjoy your wine of choice.

The onsite restaurant also comes with great reviews and is recommended for enjoying a platter in between tastings.

Point Kean Seal Sanctuary, Kaikoura

Drive or walk along the coastline from Kaikoura township to the very end of the headland. There you will come across a small car park with a few unusual visitors of the ‘New Zealand Fur Seal’ kind. The rocky outcrop at Point Kean expanded much further out to sea following the recent earthquake and the seals are now spread out over a significant distance. However there are still some inquisitive ones that come in closer and will happily lounge about on the raised boardwalk or grassy banks. In the last couple of years I’ve usually only seen sleepy young males around these parts but very occasionally a young pup will join it’s mum and delight it’s audience.

If the tide is right take a walk further around the headland, being careful not to trip on the rocks and slippery seaweed. There are a lot more seals around these parts, hidden from sight. Be warned several will happily flop across the pathway and don’t much care if it was meant for our feet not theirs. I’ve regularly had to clamber up and around some grumpy seal who has been all to happy to bark and snarl at me. It’s still a treat to spend time visiting them though and as long as you are careful and don’t block their route to the sea, the only aggression you’ll experience is their bark. All bark and no bite……but never risk this!

Britomart Auckland Central

Smart and sophisticated is probably one of the best ways to neatly sum up the retail and entertainment precinct that is close to Auckland waterfront. Britomart is bustling during the day and all twinkling night lights and stars at night. Shop wise it is home to numerous design favourites, such as Nike, Chanel, Ted Baker…. It also has a number of Kiwi locals like Karen Walker, Deadly Ponies and Kate Sylvester. The only ‘Tiffany’ store in New Zealand is pride of place in one of the recently renovated ‘grandiose’ buildings.

During the day head to Britomart for some excellent coffee - my two favourites are The Store (the pastries are also divine) and Espresso Workshop. At night established favourites such as Café Hanoi, Mexico and Orleans vibrate to lively conversations, good food and bright lights.

Mountain bike the Little River Rail Trail - epic mountain to lake views

The section of the Rail Trail between Birdlings Flat and Little River township is roughly about 20km return and is, for me, one of the most enjoyable parts of the track. Park up on the road leading down to the small settlement of Birdlings Flat - which is worthy of a trip out on it’s own accord and I will mention it shortly in a future post - and follow the well sign-posted gravel track. The Little River Rail Trail is about 49km in length, starting from Hornby, a suburb of southern Christchurch, out across to the small township of Little River on the Banks Peninsula. It is split into 6 handy sections and, as the name suggests, follows the route of an old railway embankment. The trail is pretty diverse and this part of the track from Birdlings Flat follows the shoreline of Lake Forsyth - or Te Roto O Wairewa to give it the much more interesting Maori name. The lake is home to an abundance of bird life that is easily spottable as you cycle along. On my recent ride I spotted all types of duck, geese, black swans and teals. There were even a few herons nesting.

Top Tip: take some binoculars if you enjoy bird watching as you won’t be disappointed. There are dozens of different types here.

Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the trail traverses through some patches of forest and wetland before ending at Little River itself - a welcome spot to enjoy a well earnt break and perhaps a refreshment of two - the town has some great spots which I’ll talk about in a future blog.

Soak away your cares at Tekapo Springs

Offering magnificent views across Lake Tekapo and the Two Thumb Mountain range beyond, Tekapo Springs are the perfect alpine hot pools. Relaxation is made easy here. There are three pools in a tiered formation with native alpine plants dividing them. It is recommended to start at the bottom pool, which also happens to be the coolest, and work your way up. The hottest pool is also adults only and offers the most spectacular lake views. On a freezing, icy cold winters morning, with snowflakes fluttering in the air, there is probably no better place.

A day spa is also on site offering lots of indulgent treatments. I haven’t yet tried it but I did notice it offered a 60 minutes, hot stone massage. I will most certainly be back to treat myself as it seems too good a way to spend an hour!

There is also a café on site for much needed refreshments after your dip. It also has great views - just for a change…….

Lake Tekapo Village

As much a tourist resort these days as a village, Lake Tekapo has grown significantly over the last few years and yet still possesses much of its previous charm. Ideally situated about half way between Christchurch and Queenstown, Tekapo seems to be the stopping off point of choice. The village is positioned on the banks of the sparkling lake that bears it’s name, surrounded by the Two Thumb Mountain Ranges. The lake water itself needs to be seen to be believed being an incredible blue that shines gloriously in the sunlight.

Tekapo, as mentioned, is undergoing something of a transformation. New accommodation is being built, including a perfectly positioned YHA for the budget conscious traveller. New infrastructure is appearing in the form of a purpose built supermarket and a new ‘Dark Sky’ complex - which I will come to in a later blog. (Tekapo is home to a UNESCO Dark Sky Reserve).

Nothing in my opinion can beat a walk along the lake front wrapped up on a cold winters day, or even a sweltering summers day for that matter! Of course no visit to Tekapo would be complete without checking out the picture perfect Church of the Good Shepherd. This small, stone built church is probably positioned in the most iconic of locations with a glass window to take in the absorbing views across the lake to the mountain ranges. It’s also worth taking a short walk around to the Makenzie Sheep Dog Statue just nearby. A tribute to all the dogs that made settlement and farming in this area possible.

Gibbston Valley Vineyard

Gibbston Valley is one of the Otago regions premium wine labels and a top choice for sampling some of it’s regional name sakes best vintage’s.

The best way to uncover the Gibbston Valley is to hire two wheels and bike along some of the many excellent cycle trails. Often a cellar door can be found just around a corner. The dramatic scenery is equally appealing with the Kawerau River surging through the valley and imposing hillsides towering up above. The area is home to the original bungy jump - you can actually ride right up to and over the Kawerau Bridge to watch the dare devils take their jump. It sends me dizzy just looking down! There is also a zipline now for those who want to encounter something a bit more tame.

As mentioned there are numerous excellent wineries in this area and non more so than Gibbston Valley. Home to a bike hire centre, a tour involving a ‘winery cave’, a restaurant and a cheesemongers, this place will not leave you bored.

I love the cheese platter from the cellar door paired up with one of the tasting trays they offer for their selected wines. A glass of Gibbston River China Terrace Chardonnay on a hot summers day whilst lounging in their terraced garden is a definite not to miss.

Nelson Lakes - home to Lake Rotoiti and the incredible longfin eel

A remote drive south of Nelson at the top of the South Island, takes you through rolling farmland to the secluded Nelson Lakes. A region usually excluded from many a tourists itinerary it’s the perfect spot to find that perfect piece of seclusion and uncover protected native bushland, pristine lakes and numerous walking trails. There really isn’t much more to do here except get out in the great outdoors and uncover some incredible scenery.

St Arnaud is the main base - a village positioned invitingly at the north end of Lake Rotoiti. A variety of hiking tracks for all abilities leave from here and they are all well sign-posted. These include the lovely Brunner Peninsula Nature Walk that I heartily recommend as an introduction to New Zealand bush, it runs along the lakeside and you have a pretty good chance of spotting some local birdlife…..of the Tui and Bellbird kind of course.

Before setting out on the walk take a moment to step out on the wooden jetty that stretches out into the lake. Peer down into the clear water below to spot dozens of New Zealand Longfin Eels meandering about. Endemic to New Zealand these amazing creatures live for up to, and well over, 100 years, before leaving the lake and somehow migrating all the way back to Tonga. Here they reproduce their off-spring and with their lives work seemingly complete they die. How the off spring find their way, alone, all the way back to Lake Rotoiti remains one of lives wonders……

Hanmer Springs, soak away the exhausting travel aches

Soak away your cares in the relaxing Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools. Probably the very best thermal pools experience in New Zealand - which is saying a lot as there is some tough competition out there - Hanmer manages to do bliss and relaxation in style.

To begin with the changing rooms and clean, large and unfussy. The pools themselves are plentiful and spotless and there always seems to be plenty of room despite being quite busy. There is always space to separate yourself from others and to lie back and chill in your own time… enjoying relaxation away from the crowds.

An onsite café enables you to grab a meal or a drink, before, during or after your soak and there is also the additional benefit of a spa. An indulging massage or facial before dipping your toes in the pools must surely be the perfect pampering session.

Conical Hill Recreation Reserve, Hanmer Springs

Hanmer Springs is a bustling little village in North Canterbury. Situated in a valley surrounded by mountains its a pretty spot - all fresh air and rejuvenating springs.

However all this relaxation is no excuse to totally take it easy. A hike up to the top of Conical Hill is an appropriate and robust workout without pushing the body limits too far. The walk is not too long - between 20-30 minutes uphill and slightly less, of course, on the way down. It really depends how many times you stop to take in the views across Hanmer and out across to the snow capped mountains. If you are keen on exercise you might prefer to do as I did it, in one big grunt to the top - its honestly not that far or hard (I exaggerate the grunt part)!

At the top is a covered seating area perfect to plonk oneself to absorb those splendid views. There are also picnic tables, presumably for better weather days - not wintertime with temperatures dropping down to minus figures as was the case when I was there. A marker is also available so you can pinpoint exactly which peak belongs to which mountain. There are several mountain bike trails heading off from this point at the top which all appear to plummet down into the woodland beneath - I think most of them are marked extreme so you really need to be a bit of an expert, or a daredevil, or probably a bit of both to enjoy them……

Taylors Mistake - surely not?

I’m not sure why this beach is called what it is, or what Taylor’s story was. I’m sure there is a story to uncover but I haven’t yet discovered it. To be honest I don’t really want to. Taylors Mistake is a surfing beach tucked away over the cliff side from the main settlement of Sumner. You have to drive up and down a real narrow twisting road to reach the car park which no doubt puts a few people off. I love arriving early in the morning when the only other people around are hardy surfers hitting the waves in their thickly lined wetsuits. The beach is usually empty at this time and the peace is beguiling. It’s a lovely stretch to wander down and if it’s warm enough paddle in the sea. To the right hand side of the beach are a couple of small baches, New Zealand holiday homes, that withstand the tides and coastal elements. They are just a short hop, step and jump up from the beach. They also mark the start of a pathway that takes you up over the headland revealing breath taking views of Banks Peninsula.

Spotting whales in Kaikoura

Which is better is a tough question. Spotting Kaikoura’s resident sperm whales from the water or air?

Having been fortunate enough to experience both I can categorically say that the answer isn’t easy.

Nothing beats a sighting of a whale close up by boat. Bobbing alongside such a magnificent mammal is truly awe inspiring and even more so when the whale sucks in that last bit of air and arches its back upwards rising to the sky to sink deep into the depths below. The first time you witness this it simply blows you away.

The great thing about being on the water of course is that you also have the opportunity to spot other sea creatures and birds close up. Seals are often seen bobbing in the water and dolphins love nothing more than to frolic on the brow of the boat. There are heaps of rare seabirds in these parts including the largest of them all, the mighty albatross, which are often spotted on the horizon.

From a plane the view is very different as you’d expect and you have the benefit of being able to appreciate the full size and scale of the whale. The flight itself is quite an adventure - taking off from a grass runway in such a small plane whilst watching the pilot at the controls right in front of you.

The views of the Kaikoura Headland are quite spellbinding as are those of the mighty Kaikoura Mountain Range. The great thing about the plane trip is that it’s quick. Once a whale is spotted they can approach it much faster than any boat can which can really benefit a viewing. The whales only breach the surface of the water for a few minutes, taking in deep breathes of air before plunging down again. I was lucky on my trip and we actually saw a whale surface so spent several precious minutes circling just above.

So which is better, the plane or the boat? Hmmmmmmmm

Willowbank the wildlife park

Willowbank boasts that it is the ‘home of the big 5’. It is indeed - that's the big 5 in New Zealand by the way and I’ll return to them shortly. It is also home to a farmyard full of cute, intriguing and friendly animals. There are donkeys and donkey rides, tame eels to feed, lots of tortoise (so many tortoise), horses, sheep, hungry llamas and pigs - don’t forget the pigs - they seem to be everywhere!

At the monkey enclosure I was treated to the sight of a newborn peeking out from under it’s parents bulk. Just so adorable. There are also ducks, geese, more ducks, more geese, they are everywhere - under you feet, on the water, on the pathway - everywhere.

A track follows a circuit around the park passing by and over a stream which is full of life. I was continuously harassed by hungry bird life the entire way. And don’t get me started on the cheeky Kea, the parrots who don’t seem to have any principals.

The best bit in my opinion was the New Zealand section. The entrance was through a Maori meeting house and village before reaching a nocturnal house for New Zealand’s favourite bird the Kiwi. As my eyes adjusted to the dark haze I spotted two kiwi foraging around in the undergrowth. It was a pleasure just to hang out with them..

My next stop was to say good morning to the Morepork (the New Zealand owl) and then the remainder of the big 5 - Takahe, Kaka and Tuatara. Oh and of course the Kea - as I walked through this enclosure a cheeky and way too intelligent guy decided to perch on my shoulder and attempt to steal my sunglasses. Take on the ‘big 5’ at your peril I say….

White Heron Sanctuary Tour on the West Coast

I timed my visit to the small West Coast settlement of Whataroa with a stereotypical west coast day - it was tipping it down with rain! Actually scrap that, bucketing it down would be a more apt description. Despite the weather a group of us set off in a minivan through farmland to a small jetty. Here we were given the all important wet weather gear of giant overcoat and trousers. Vital as the next part of our journey involved a long river run in a jet boat. The scenery looked stunning - what I could see of it given the constant dripping taking place off the brim of my rain hat. The jet boat zoomed down along the river taking us further and further from any civilisation until we reached a small bend where a purpose built wharf had been built. A short nature trail through West Coast prehistoric rainforest (oh how appropriate a description on such a day) brought us to a view hide overlooking the only known nesting site for Kotuku or White Heron known to exist in New Zealand.

The population of birds here is only 200 so just seeing one in NZ is unique, to visit their breeding ground is special. They are only resident here from late September to early March and nobody really knows why they chose this particular place.

I found the hide well stocked with sunscreen, insect repellent (vital as the mosquitos are ravenous) and binoculars. I knelt up against the viewing platform and focused in on the nests directly opposite. As I did so a white heron flew right across in front of me. The majority were sat on the their nests and there were some fluffy bundles also present - this years chicks presumably awaiting their parents return and feeding time. I was also fortunate enough to spot a number of shags and even a few spoonbills.

Although not the best of weather conditions being able to access such a rare site in such a remote place left me feeling mighty privileged.

Christchruch Botanic Gardens - a tranquail oasis in the heart of the city

I love Christchurch Botanic Gardens at all times of the day, all times of the year. Including during Autumn when the leaves are turning orange, rusty red and bruised brown and are slowly beginning to fall. There is something warm and comforting about strolling the pathways at this time listening to the crunch of dried leaves underfoot. A reminder perhaps that some of life’s greatest pleasures come from the smallest most familiar things.

During the winter months the gardens are remarkably colourful seemingly in contrast to the time of year. Magnolia and Camellia trees bloom in an abundance of colour. Their perfume scents cloud the air.

Without doubt though an early springtime morning must be the best. Just as the earth is reawakening with new prospects, blossoms bloom, buds pop, the daffodils sway and new life is created. Ducklings can be found bobbing along on the water. This is, in my opinion, the time of year to take a punt on the River Avon. The gondola rides are available all year but first thing on a Sunday morning cannot be beaten.

Top tip: book a seat on the first punt of the day - usually just before 10am. The park is blissfully quiet at this time as is the river - kayak hire doesn’t open until a little later. This enables you to sit back, relax and let yourself be punted along floating under the sweeping branches of the willow trees that grace the rivers banks.

Devils Punch Falls at Arthurs Pass Village

Arthurs Pass is the direct route east to west and west to east between Canterbury and the rugged remote West Coast. It’s a great scenic drive, but more about that later. This blog is about Devils Punch Falls, a great walk to do when you reach Arthurs Pass village on route.

Tip: leave the car in the village near the information centre and walk to the start of the falls. This allows you to fully take in the village, the high towering mountains surrounding everything and the small little huts once built for the workers in the area. They are gradually being converted into small holiday homes. A rock strewn walk takes you across uneven ground to a couple of very sturdy swing bridges which cross the river. Carry on straight ahead to begin the climb up to Devils Punch Falls. It is clearly signposted. The climb takes you up through native alpine bush and as you make your way up slopes and seemingly endless steps you are serenaded all the way by mischievous fantails and little waxeyes. There is even a rare Saddleback or two to sing you an unusual tune.

It is quite a grunt to the top where a large purpose built viewing platform overlooks the falls. Devils Punch Falls plummets down from way above to form a rocky stream beneath. As the water falls over the edge of the tree laden cliff face it’s difficult to tell where it originates from - presumably a snow melt high above.

There is no doubt that after a long car journey this walk invigorates your senses and your body……

Stunning Sumner

I spent last Saturday morning strolling across Scarborough Beach at Sumner on the coast of Christchurch. I had an early start on purpose to get up and out as the sun was rising, to drive across the city whilst the roads were quiet and to reach Sumner in time to watch the surfers. The wind was slightly blustery and the sky threatened rain but this was great for the surf. Snuggled in my thick coat on the beach I could watch the brave geared up in their wetsuits surf the waves. The tide was going out so the firm beach was easy to walk along and because it was cold there were few people out. As the drizzle turned to rain I headed into town and Coffee Culture. A large trim latte and southland cheese roll soon warmed me up. A cosy buzz hit me as I sat in the window warming through as the heavens opened and the rain trundled down. Gradually it eased and I headed out once again to the long empty stretch of sandy beach.

Talyors Mistake, beach, surf and scenic walk

Up and over a narrow residential area across from Sumner is the small settlement of Taylors Mistake. This is a Christchurch beach at it’s best as far away from the city as it could possibly be. First thing on a morning the beach is empty say for perhaps a couple of keen surfing dudes, and it really is the best time to go. Head right and towards a couple of small bachs (New Zealand holiday homes) which lead to the beginning of a fantastic walkway. A short climb takes you up to the well established pathway that snakes around the cliffside peninsula here. The views stretch far and wide across the sea and out to the distant horizon. If you look back to where you came from there is the beach in its glorious setting with the waves booming to the shoreline. On a clear day the rugged peaks of the Southern Alps are even visible on the skyline.

Lake Clearwater

Drive deep into Central Canterbury and past the long stretches of seemingly never ending farmland until the landscape begins to change from flat to curved and shaped. The road begins to twist and grassy hillsides rise up from the valley. Eventually the road becomes corrugated and unsealed until it ends at the small settlement of Lake Clearwater. At the lake front ditch the car to enjoy the 2+ hour circular walk. Lake Clearwater is positioned in a remote valley surrounded by distant mountains. At the lake’s far side is a wetland with a man made boardwalk to cross, protecting both the habitat and your feet! As the path rises up you reach a point overlooking the lake and the epic scenery, it’s about half way around and an appropriate stop for a picnic. I visited in winter time when the air lingered about me cold and damp and the lake was half frozen with ice. The track continues around the lake side until you reach a small stream leading off, as I stood on the small bridge peering downwards, a river of never ending crushed and broken ice floated downstream. It was quite a sight. At this point you also look back across the full length of the lake, past the wetlands and through the long remote valley to the snow laden mountains beyond.

Simply Zealandia, an ecosancturay saviour in the heart of the city

Situated near the centre of Wellington, Zealandia is a unique project based around an old reservoir about twenty years ago. A 560 acre forest was protected by a pest proof designed fence which goes far enough underground to prevent anything digging under and stands high enough to the greatest leaper cannot jump.

The result is that the sanctuary is predator fee allowing the natural New Zealand world to flourish and prosper. There are numerous walks to do including one which forms a circuit around the sanctuary and up high above the reservoir where on a clear day the views are incredible. The main circuit is the one to do if you wish to see and appreciate all of the highlights.

The forest is packed with birdlife, many of which is vulnerable or endangered, Kaka, Tui, Fantails and Saddlebacks, all struggling due to the destruction and loss of their natural habitat.

There are even Takahe - the non flying, ground dwelling bird, about the size of a Kiwi, that were believed to be extinct. They are often spotted pecking at the lawns. Climbing up to a separate area there are feeders for Stitchbird, who love the sugared water - the first time I saw one was at Zealandia.

The ecosanctuary has proved so successful that similar ones are being developed around the country proving that regeneration can occur on the mainland as well as the surrounding islands.