A weekend in Akaroa, Banks Peninsula

A weekend in Akaroa can be enjoyed either on land or water. Hire a kayak and gently paddle your way around the various bays of Akaroa Harbour. There are birds of all descriptions hanging out and drying their wings on the rocks. At low tide there offers a bounty of mussels for foraging. There are also numerous nature cruises and dolphin cruises to choose from. These cruises take about 2 hours and venture through the harbour and, if conditions are right, out to sea. The friendly crew point out numerous landmarks of significance on route including some stunning sea caves which the boat will actually venture into if the sea conditions are good. A seal colony is tucked into one of the sheltered bays as you head out to sea from the harbour entrance. Sometimes it can be possible to spot a penguin or two as there is a significant Little Blue Penguin colony at Flea Bay on Banks Peninsula - I will blog about this at a later date, as it’s well worth a visit especially at dusk when the penguins are returning.

Views across Akaroa Harbour

The highlight of any trip for many folks is the sighting of the endangered Hector Dolphin. The world’s smallest dolphin has a pod that lives in and around the Akaroa Harbour and is usually spotted on these trips. Often in small groups these sweet little guys love nothing more than surfing off the front of the boat as you surge through the water. More often it’s the dolphins seeking you out before you encounter them. They love the small cruise boats here and keep your eyes peeled as you will often spot one or two of them swimming across to join you. On several occasions when I’ve been out in the harbour, they have had young calves with them - especially during the later summer and autumn months. The crew will always get incredibly excited if they spot a calf, it’s the sign of a promising future for these rare and endangered guys.

This conveniently brings me to my next recommendation - the swim with the dolphin option. There are two operators offering these trips which are highly regulated to protect the dolphins. The rules are you can only swim if the dolphins are happy, look as though they are interested and have no calves in the pod. One summers morning I joined up with a Black Cat Swim with the Dolphins cruise. It was an exceptional experience and one I’ll write about shortly.

Back on dry land, Akaroa, is a lovely spot to while away time on the sheltered beach, saunter around a few gift shops and down back streets which are home to traditional old Kiwi colonial cottages and French street names (the area was originally garrisoned by the French until the English signed an agreement with the local Maori Iwi to claim it for the King. It’s quite a tale and I won’t say too much as you will be told the full story on your nature cruise). There is a French Cemetery and Anglican Cemetery located in Akaroa reflecting this past shared history. It’s most certainly the most French place you will find in New Zealand!

I enjoy strolling along, following the pretty waterfront boulevard, wandering down the Pier where the boat trips leave from, and then across to the Akaroa Lighthouse. The views are picture perfect and there is also the chance you stumble across something interesting on route - I have spotted Tui, flocks of Kereru (the New Zealand wood pigeon) and even an Elephant Seal on my ventures.

Afternoon tea at Gumption in Christchurch

The Distinction Hotel sits in a prominent position in Cathedral Square in central Christchurch. Despite being largely destroyed in the 2011 earthquake the square is gradually being rebuilt (including the restoration of the cathedral itself) and there are good plans for making this area the beating heart and soul of the city once again.

The hotel is an old building that undertook a lot of work to reopen pre covid as a 4-star hotel, the type that Christchurch City Centre was crying out for to be honest. As you enter the lobby area the space is vast with high ceilings and a curved staircase. There is a large central decoration piece behind which the hotel reception desk sits. Turn to your right and you come to the bar and lounge. The decoration here is sophistication and luxury spun into one. Large chairs decorated in indulgent gold and greens make a statement alongside large comfortable lounge pieces with big cushions and the same flowing colour scheme. It’s a place to make you feel good about yourself.

Gumption Restaurant at the Distinction Hotel

Gumption Restaurant is tucked away to the back with what eventually will be a great view across Cathedral Square. There are plans apparently by the hotel to have an open area in summertime where the large windows and doors can be pushed back to allow for outdoor dining in front of the restaurant. The restaurant now follows the same theme as the bar but with more practical seating. The greeting was super friendly on my arrival and despite being stupidly early for my booking (I confess I was starving) I was invited to take a seat, it wasn’t at all a problem. It was pretty quiet for a Saturday afternoon to be fair but that could be the time of year - it was very much out of season and Christchurch is not a busy city.

My visit was to try the new Afternoon Tea offering the hotel was promoting. A few places have begun to offer Afternoon Tea in the city and hopefully it will be a new successful addition to the ‘Garden City’.

I love a good Afternoon Tea and had heard good things about Gumption. Personally, I’m not usually a big fan of hotel restaurants but some are better than others and I reckoned on tea being a different category altogether.

After pondering the menu for a short while my waitress enquired as to what I would like to drink. The tea was promoted with a glass of Villa Maria Brut which I couldn’t resist. It was crisp and sparkly and the perfect accompliment. I opted to save the hot drink included with my tea for later after I’d sipped my sparkling.

Sharing 3 tiers of goodness at the Gumptions Afternoon Tea service

The tea arrived after a short while presented on three tiers and was loaded with mouthwatering deliciousness. My lovely waitress (honestly, I cannot fault the staff who were simply lovely and accommodating) went through each item on the plates for me with a description that I’ve no idea how she remembered. I had to consult the menu she kindly left me.

A choice of sandwiches with some tasty fillings

I began with savoury. My first bit of the smoked manuka beef with horseradish on dark rye was delicious and set my taste buds jingling for what came next. Mt Cook Salmon on a delicate pasty was followed by a chicken and sage, and of course, every Afternoon Tea should have an egg sandwich, this one had smoked cheese too. The buttermilk scones were served with lemon curd, mixed berry jam and cream. The dessert plate had a raspberry macron, delicate fruit tarts and matcha profiteroles. I’m not sure which exactly was my favourite but it all got demolished without complaint.

The cake plate is a real treat

Port Stephens continued, camel rides on the beach

Although the wind had got up and the sand was swirling around everywhere the camels didn’t seem to care. Sat waiting patiently in line they hardly stirred as I ventured across to the waiting guides to join the first tour of the day for Oakfield Ranch Camel Rides.

The camels weren’t the slightest bothered about the wind blowing sand into their faces

Situated at the gorgeous Birubi Beach at Anna Bay this crew get excellent reviews. They meet you at the lower car park - keep driving around and you will find it I promise and take cash from you when you pull up. Apparently, you cannot book in advance and several people have mentioned that they do get big queues on busy days. Mornings are best for quieter options, and I was fortunate enough to just walk up. The team were super friendly inviting me to pick my own helmet (worn for safety, trust me you feel pretty high when seated on the back of a camel) and say G’day to the camels.

Saying Good Morning to a new friend

I was told that the second camel in line was the chap to pat, obviously more tolerant of us human folk than his fellow gang members. The others seemed pretty cruisy, but I followed instructions and didn’t risk finding out how they felt about a head scrub! As more folk turned up and were kitted out, we had a brief lesson where our guide taught us how to get on and off the camel safely. It was then time to do what we’d all come down for and climb aboard and go for a camel ride.

My camel was first in line and leader of the pack. I hoisted myself on to his back with a little help from the knee of my guide (I was immensely grateful, and I just hope I wasn’t too heavy). My camel, Jaffa, seemed so laid back I did wonder if he was going to bother to get up. But with a bit of encouragement from our guide Mark he slowly rose to his feet. I had to lean back and hold on tight otherwise as he rose, I was in danger of toppling over his head! Once safely upright I gave Jaffa a quick stroke. His fur was fluffier and softer than I expected and there was certainly no legendary camel spitting going on. More just a gentle willingness to stroll slowly over the soft sand on a trip he has probably done many times before.

Jaffa leading the way

As we made our way across the sand dunes, I was able to turn around and see the trail of camels following Jaffa. It was quite a sight to behold with about 15 camels all calmly following one another with their heads raised.

The ride in total takes about 30 minutes but it’s a fun time. Heading down the beach to the sea is quite surreal. Apparently on some trips dolphins are spotted from the shoreline. I had to be content to sit back, relax and watch as Jaffa cooled his legs in the shallow sea water. He wandered through the waves without a care in the world. Luckily, he didn’t decide to go in deep for a swim, so I managed to stay dry! Eventually we wandered away from the seashore and back across the sand to our original starting point. Dismounting Jaffa was almost as much fun as getting on him, I had to try to push myself over his side without falling, trust me I haven’t long legs and camels are bigger than you think, but I somehow made it without falling headfirst into the sand! My sense of relief was palpable.

The very handsome Jaffa the most tolerant camel

After the walk our guides encouraged us to give our camels a pat and scratch between the ears to say thank you. I enjoyed the ride and the fact that despite asking several dumb camel questions my guide failed to laugh out loud at my obvious stupidity. It’s a great tour and one I would totally recommend.

Dart River Funyaks, the promised second instalment

After an awesome trip down the Dart River in a jet boat it was now time for the part of the trip I was most looking forward to, the Funyaks. We raced back down the river in our jet boat until we came to a turn which housed a rocky beach bank. There our two guides were busy blowing up our Funyaks for the day.

The inflatable funyaks, a unique form of transportation down the Dart River

After a brief safety talk which provided us with lots of information about the river itself, we pulled on our more comfortable gear and climbed into our new mode of transport. Basically, a blow up kayak the Funyak had a larger front but apart from that it was a case of dip your paddle over the side and off you go. It was so easy that basically navigating the rivers current was the hardest aspect of the whole thing. We were a group of five so only 4 Funyaks were needed, two couples and an elderly lady who got to share with one of our guides. The fourth kayak was for our second guide who carried all the safety equipment and our precious lunch. Gently we floated down the river paddling along listening to our guides clear instructions about which part of the river was best to follow. But most of all just enjoying the silence and serenity you can only truly find in a place as special as this. It was a truly incredible experience with the majesty of the mountains all around towering over the dense New Zealand bushland that climbed up from the pebbly riverbanks. All that could be heard was the gush of the water and bird song. At times the silence was eerie so far away were we from civilisation. We followed the direction of the river flowing down to the lake beyond so little work was actually needed with the paddles although sometimes they were essential for navigating past shallow rapids and helping to prevent lodging the Funyak on the riverbed - which I confess did happen to me once or twice!! A further hazard was soaking oneself - I splashed myself constantly with the freezing river water, still it was a good wakeup call should I have found myself drifting off and paying too much attention to the scenery and not the Funyak. After a peaceful time, floating along our guides pulled us over to one side, we were invited to enter the Rockburn Chasm. My trip coincided with the end of a long hot summer and the river levels were low. This meant we had to carry our Funyak across a shallow stream which flowed off the main river - the level being so low that our Funyak would have lodged itself on a rock if we’d tried to paddle. The walk carrying the Funyak was worth the slog though as this was my absolute favourite part of the whole fabulous trip. Once back on the water after our rocky island crossing, we began to slowly float through into the world of Narnia.

The Rockburn Chasm is found just to one side of the Dart River

The Rockburn Chasm was magic, ancient rock faces reflected into the deep depths of the crystal-clear water below. We could see way down to the sandy banks and our guides confessed that it was incredibly rare to see it this clear as usually rainfall in this area clouded the colours.

The dazzling colour of the water and its clarity meant that we could see down to the sandy bottom

The bird song here was inspiring as we gently paddled our way through careful not to bump one another as there wasn’t too much room.

Floating through the world of Narnia, the narrow edges meant a lot of back paddling!

After such an awe-inspiring experience we had worked up an appetite. Our guides suggested lunch at a picnic table just by the Rockburn Chasm entrance. None of us were going to turn down a picnic in the bush besides the water with mesmerising mountain views in every direction. Lunch in paradise it most certainly was. After being sufficiently sustained we climbed once again into our Funyaks to continue our float back down the river appreciating the warmth from the sunshine on our backs as we slowly paddled our way back to the real world.

A gorgeous day for a paddle in the middle of the moutains

Accommodation Inspirations - Part 5 - Eliza's Manor

Generic hotels these days whilst being lovely and comfortable can on occasion be a little boring and I’m always on the lookout for a different type of overnight accommodation. Eliza’s Manor is an old-style villa situated on Bealey Avenue, one of Christchurch's most popular through fares. It has somehow remained standing despite everything thrown at it over the years. Dating back to 1861 the villa stands in a street otherwise littered with various standards of modern motel offerings. As you can imagine it stands out from the crowd. As you approach the frontage has been renovated and refitted to honour it’s past but also to create a modern fresh boutique style lodge. The entrance way is through a large heavy wooden door. Ahead of you in the lobby is a grand old wooden staircase with the small reception room to the right-hand side. To your left is the lounge bar. It all feels rather grand. Somewhere you could linger for a few days and truly relax in style. I had just the one night but was determined to enjoy every moment. I was escorted to my room by the friendly receptionist which happened to be tucked away on the ground floor. The room was labelled ‘The Butlers Quarters’ and was hidden behind a door indicating for the hotel toilets. You would never have a clue it was there to be honest.

What is lurking behind the Butlers Door?

I felt as though I was ducking into a cupboard at first until the door opened and revealed a gorgeously designed room, complete with a huge chandelier, some very grand looking furniture and a carpet that your feet simply sank into. Freshly baked goods from the kitchen were presented in a small bag for me. Another room tray was packed with New Zealand red wine, snacks of crisps and popcorn. In the small fridge was a free mini bar offering some white wine, water, beer and a delicious house made iced tea, which luckily was refilled for me whilst I was at dinner.

A tray of goodies to enjoy during your stay at Eliza’s Manor

The floor to ceiling window opened to a small seating area that led around the corner to the outdoor cocktail garden. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t great on my visit, so I didn’t get to enjoy this feature of the hotel.

The room decoration all celebrates the old villa ambience.

After an afternoon of relaxing in my room and enjoying the lovely gifts left for me, I ventured out into the hotel reception area and into the small dining area that was situated just behind the lounge bar. A three-course meal was included in my stay package which is something I would recommend opting for as the food itself was delicious. There were hardly any other diners though so you must be comfortable in your own company. I rolled back to my room to discover that my bed had been downturned and the curtains drawn against the dark night. My ice-tea had been refilled and a macron had been left by my bedside as a late evening treat. Small touches that add to the delight of the stay.

Luxurious furnishings and decorations all add to the grand feel at Eliza’s

Breakfast the following morning was also included and again excellent. A top way to start the day as I reluctantly dragged myself back to reality and the left the boutique opulence behind.

Overnight at Milford Sound

Milford Sound is situated at the end of one of the most dramatic and awe-inspiring drives in the world. A route that takes you right through the heart of Fiordland National Park and to the Sound bearing the same name. There are numerous Sounds that help make up Fiordland, Dusky Sound, Doubtful Sound, Endeavour Sound to name but a few. Most are so remote they have rarely been touched by humans let alone have a road or track built to enable access to them. Milford Sound is easily the most assessable of them all but even it is a journey of discovery to reach it.

A South Island Robin is just one of the many birds you might spot on your adventures in Fiordland

An article on a not so terrifying journey along the Milford Road will follow - counteracting my hair-raising early morning experience in the wet and dark that I wrote about in an earlier blog! Most folk visit Milford Sound for the day, taking advantage of the numerous bus trips or flights from Queenstown or Te Anau. Some choose to drive themselves. A select few are lucky enough to stay overnight.

One of the many stunning views at Milford Sound

Overnight options consist of two choices, a stay at the Milford Lodge or an overnight cruise out on the water of the Sound itself. Both are top choices and an article will follow on the overnight cruise option.

Overnight stays on the Milford Mariner are a real treat

This article is about Milford Sound Lodge. You will literally drive by the entrance to the lodge on your way to the car park and ferry terminal - presuming you plan to take a cruise out on the water which would be criminal not too, you’ve come all this way right? The lodge is a good spot for a day tripper if you fancy a coffee or light snack, or just general information about the area, this is the place to call in at. It is tucked away in the rainforest and besides the river and offer a range of accommodation options from the Premium Riverside Chalets that are positioned as the name suggests, beside the Cleddan River. They are perfect for couples looking to enjoy nature and completely relax with a spot of luxury. Other options include Mountain view chalets and campervan spots. The campervan park is surrounded by rainforest and includes some great features. I stayed just one night but would have gladly extended my stay.

Each site offers total privacy tucked neatly into sites surrounded by rainforest and bush. Opening the curtains on a morning to looming granite cliff faces on all sides and dense rainforest was quite something. It created the impression that you were in an untouched world completely immersed in nature. I swear I could have stayed a week in such serenity. To keep in touch with reality though there are some useful tools available here, a well equipped kitchen for campers use which is available 24 hours a day should you wake up with midnight cravings and dare to explore your surroundings in the darkness. There is a really good shower block and laundry which when i stayed was kept very clean. The main lodge houses the reception area for use by all including day trippers. It is where the restaurant is located. Pio Pio is a fantastic spot, and a must do if you happen to stay overnight here. It is home to some of the best dining in New Zealand despite being so remote. Yes, believe it or not, deep in the depths of Fiordland is one hell of a restaurant servicing up some delicious options showcasing New Zealand food. The menu is limited but the choices of Blue Cod, Wild Fiordland Venison or Southland Lamb are anything but - it’s a menu to show the areas delicious highlights and it does so memorably.

One minute it’s raining the next it’s sunny

The following morning after the rain

Port Stephens continued, Bannisters Hotel & a taste of Rick Stein

My digs for the two nights I was spending at Port Stephens were the rather impressive Bannisters Port Stephens Hotel. Situated at Soldiers Point, yet another bay jutting out of the peninsula that makes up the Port Stephens area, the hotel is positioned right by the beach at a lovely spot with its own outdoor infinity pool, large bar come restaurant come cafe area. It has a Mexican restaurant beside the pool and of course Rick Steins own restaurant which on a morning serves as the guest breakfast area (breakfast comes as part of your room package here and believe me it’s worth getting up for with an excellent buffet selection available).

Upon arrival I was greeted by a friendly receptionist who outlined the features of the hotel and showed me exactly where to park and how to find my room. Trust me it’s quite a maze here until you get used to the lay out. My room was on the fourth floor and involved either a wait for the lift or a climb up several flights of stairs. In my determination to work off the calories I expected to consume during my stay, I opted for the stair climb on most occasion - guilt over-riding, yeah right!! Once I found my room I was impressed. A large space set out in warm inviting, yet neutral colours welcomed me. It was comfortable and offered relaxation without being too pretentious.

The room at Bannisters was super comfortable

In the corner was a floor to ceiling window with sliding door opening out to a private balcony overlooking the reserve bush that made up the grounds of the hotel.

My private balcony overlooking the bush

This area is famous on the peninsula for being a Koala Habitat and there were numerous birds swooping about to greet me as I perched on the comfy seat left outside for me. On the drive to the hotel I had passed numerous signs warning me to be on the lookout for Koalas who unfortunately had a bad habit of sometimes venturing out onto the road - believe me I have witnessed one chap wandering along the middle line of the highway leading down to the Great Ocean Road, it left me in a panic although he was thoroughly relaxed about the whole thing. It seems that road sense and Koalas do not go together.

Spotting a Kookaburra from the balcony

After freshening up and enjoying the luxuries in my hotel room I decided to go explore the rest of the hotel. I had my reservation that night already made for the Rick Stein Restaurant. I headed back down the flight of stairs to the reception area and had a wander through the poolside bar and sunbathing lounger area.

Dan enjoying some Aussie wine by the hotel pool

Another flight of stairs led to the far side of the hotel and the large bar and restaurant that was popular with live music and numerous patrons enjoying the shade from the umbrellas positioned overlooking the view out on the terrace. The grassy slopes here led down to the beach and of course the sea. It was a chill place to spend a lazy afternoon relaxing, enjoying the warm weather and appreciating the good food and drink on offer.

Sunset overlooking Soldiers Point, Port Stephens from the hotel room

The Camp - Lake Hawea Holiday Park

The holiday park at Lake Hawea is anything but average. Set picture perfect by the side of the lake surrounded by New Zealand bush the site offers a wide range of accommodation options. This isn’t your standard squeeze as many in type of camp. There are heaps of grassy spaces for caravans, tents, campervans with loads of room per site so that you don’t feel as though you are staying on top of your neighbour.

Lake and bush at Hawea Camp Site

Tent sites are by the lake or by the forest canopy - sunny or shady spots are your choice. Then there are the Belle tents that have their own little village area set up. Ideal for those who want to glamp - an upmarket form of camping when basically you are still sleeping under canvas but have the added draw card and comfort of a bed. More upmarket forms of glamping than even the Belle Tents are on offer including the Safari Tent which is complete with its own private spot by the lake front between the trees. The Little House is a sweet cottage that sits on its own site and offers magnificent views.

The park has a busy shop and office area where you can buy supplies and obtain information on nearby activities - don’t forget that Queenstown, Wanaka, Gibbston Valley and even the West Coast are within driving distance from here. They are also happy to hire out bikes and fishing rods to anyone keen on a bit of adventure. If you wish to spin a line in the water pointers can be given by the staff on the best sports to cast off for the most likely catch. The lake is full of salmon and trout, although catching one might be a whole other challenge.

Glamping in style in the Safari Tent

I stopped for a couple of nights in the Safari Tent. The views across the lake were magnificent and as the sun set, sitting on the deck with a glass of wine was breathtaking.

View from the deck of the Safari Tent

My two-night stay package included a bottle of wine and chocolate and also some free bike hire. After spending a few hours passing time appreciating the serenity I decided it would be good option to go burn off the chocolate - strolling through the camp site and along the lake front didn’t really do it! So fitted out by reception with a bike and helmet I headed up out of the park following the lake to Hawea township itself. From here I joined the Hawea River Track which took me alongside the gurgling river, through farmland and bush through to Albert Town. The views along the route were stunning with mountain vistas in every direction. Once I reached Albert Town I was in need of a break, to put my feet up and have some refreshment. I found myself the perfect spot at an outside table at local favourite Pembroke Patisserie - nothing can beat pastries after a long bike ride.

Nothing beats spending a couple of days by Lake Hawea

Port Stephens - Aussie beach vibe at it's best

Tucked away on a peninsula north of the busy port city of Newcastle is Port Stephens. Jutting out into the Pacific Ocean it has numerous enchanting bays and pretty beaches that appeal to all kinds of traveller - this is Australian beaches as you picture them in your dreams. From the bustling harbour town of Nelson Bay, full of cafes, bars and restaurants and the departure point for the numerous dolphin and whale watching trips, to Wreck Beach which is only reachable by a gentle bush walk and long climb down to the deserted sands below.

I found myself exploring as many as I could. My first step on arriving at Port Stephens, a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Sydney, was Nelson Bay and a brunch spot that came highly recommended to me by a frequent visitor to these parts, The Little Nel. A short walk up from the bustling harbour this cute spot is bustling with a beach front vibe. The Little Nel is a mix of inside and outside dining overlooking the turquoise bay beyond. The menu is pretty big and it took me some time to decide, finally being enticed by the Blue Swimmer Crab omelette with fried mushrooms and house made chilli oil together with a freshly squeezed pineapple juice. I honestly felt as though I was on a remote Pacific Island rather than a bustling Australian resort town. I’ll be honest though I do really love a good Australian seaside town, they have such positive fun vibes it’s hard not to enjoy.

After thoroughly enjoying my brunch, I was ready to continue my journey around the peninsula. My next stop was the much more peaceful Wreck Bay. Only a couple of kayaks and a couple of fellow solo walkers were present here. A complete contrast to the hectic Nelson Bay. Oh, and also some large creature that I never actually spotted that I could hear rustling around in the nearby bush at the side of the sandy path down to the beach.

The sandy bays at Fingal Beach are not to be missed when visiting Port Stephens

After driving through Shoal Bay, another beautiful but busy beach, very popular judging by the fact that there were no parking spaces to be found anywhere, I made it to Fingal Bay. A vast expanse of beach framed by sand dunes and sheltered by the presence of Shark Island across the water, meant that a safe lagoon area was created to paddle and swim in. Fingal Bay has a small scattering of homes and a holiday park and is a gorgeous spot to loose the jandels/flipflops/thongs and stroll out along the beach enjoying the fresh sea water lapping up at your ankles.

Nothing can beat a paddle in warm sea water to cool the toes

After a few hours of lingering and enjoying the magnificence of Fingal Bay I made my way further across the peninsula to Anna Bay. Bordering on the Worimi National Park, this area is renowned for its untouched sand dunes and natural beauty. Unfortunately, for my visit the wind had whipped up in a fury from the sea, so it was difficult to appreciate the natural beauty of the place with an eye full of fine sand, although I did try my best! A couple of tour operators offer various 4WD tours and sand boarding activities from the car park behind the beach. Personally, though I was here for a different type of ride, find out more in my new Port Stephens instalment.

Milford Road Drive - not for the faint hearted

Please don’t be as crazy as I once was and drive down this road in the dark in the middle of a prolonged rain deluge. It’s especially scary - especially when all you can hear is the roar of waterfalls crashing down from the steep granite cliffs sitting just beside the road. It’s also not the time to take a drive through the Homer Tunnel. Famous for appearing as though it’s been left unfinished, the Homer Tunnel, has room for one line of traffic only and drips constantly from the porous mountains above. It looks what it is, a tunnel chiselled out of the rock through the mountain and its particularly spooky full of foggy mist on a dark wet morning - ah fond memories, not!

Entrance to Homer Tunnel on the Milford Road

The Milford Road is one if not the most scenic drive in the world. It is majestic and wonderous if you can actually see it and incredibly dangerous if you can’t. It also has some awe-inspiring sights to stop off at, from Mirror Lakes to Lake Gunn, through to Eglington Valley - all of which are breathtaking spectacular and all of which I’ll write about in another article soon.

Lake Gum, Milford Road in brighter weather conditions

I’ll also write about my night stopping over at Milford Sound and how much fun that was. This article though is about my crazy trip in the dark to reach Milford Sound before dawn. Crazy, stupid, daft are all words applicable now I look back, but at the time it seemed the perfect scenario - stay over at Te Anau (another article folks - a truly great sport to spend a day, a weekend or even a week) and drive to Milford early morning. Well, it would have been if it hadn’t been raining for over 24 hours before - and not just any rain, torrential rain. I set off nervous, by the time I reached Homer Tunnel I was positively petrified. Having seen only one other vehicle, a camper van heading to the start of the Routeburn Track, I was convinced the road could have collapsed at any point. Each bend I gripped tighter to the steering wheel praying the road ahead was still there. Trust me, when you drive Milford, you will realise exactly what I am meaning, the road is so extreme you feel it can fall away at any point. And honestly, I never expected it to be so dark or stay so dark or the damn sunrise to take so long!!!

One of the many valleys along the Milford Road

Luckily for me as dawn rose and I approached Milford Sound I could breathe again as I’d made it safely there - somehow - and this article is to emphasis don’t be a fool like I was - don’t drive the Milford Road in the dark. My reason for my foolhardily was a Sunrise Kayak on Milford Sound which meant arriving before dawn and yes, that white knuckle ride did truly end up being worth it - watch this space.

Accommodation Inspirations - Part 4 Foxdown Hut

Perched high on a hillside overlooking a cow and sheep farm is the elegant and luxurious, Foxdown Hut. This is off grid life on a super flash scale.

Walking down the slope from where you park your car to the hut entrance is quite a statement - the views spread out in front of you are quite something. Stretching for miles all you can make out is sheep, cows, rolling farmland, no human life all the way across to the Culverdon Ranges beyond.

The view from Foxdown Hut takes the breath away

I entered through the sliding doors and my breath was taken away by the hut itself. Alas a hut is not an adequate description. A stunning kitchen area gives way to a large dining space and stunning lounge, complete with incredible decoration (which has been taken from old items collected from the owner’s families farm over the decades). An outdoor bath sits on the edge of a grand deck area complete with bean bags to relax with a glass of wine and absorb those stunning views that never get boring.

A bath with an incredible view

A bedroom and a beautiful bathroom lead off the main area. As I settled myself down, I was almost overwhelmed by the grandness of the place, a full kitchen to self-cater, a slice of homemade brownie kindly left by my host and a relaxing deck that lent itself to some magical views. The only downside was the flies - being a cow and sheep farm meant that there were swarms of them that were impossible to keep out of the hut unless you closed the doors - not really an option on a sweltering summers day. No amount of fly spray could contain them. It was a shame, but I guess one of those things when choosing to stay out on a farm.

The amazing kitchen at Foxdown Hut

I could have lingered in the hut and never have left but a walk from the back up to the very top reaches of the farm enticed me to stretch my legs. On a sunny day with clear skies, I clambered up the peaks on a thigh stinging walk. More incredible views greeted me of the Canterbury Plains and Pacific Ocean beyond.

Foxdown Hut is the perfect spot for those seeking an isolated break with more luxurious touches than a 5-star hotel - alas just not the room service!

The perfect spot to rest and recharge

Hanging out with the red pandas in Wellington

Some things are quite surreal. Having a small red panda crawl across your lap is one of those. I was at Wellington Zoo indulging in one of their Close-Up Encounters. There were only four of us and our Encounter guide who we met outside before being taken through locked gates into the enclosure area. These cute little pandas are endangered in the wild due to destruction of their habitats in the mountains of Nepal and Central China. The Wellington Zoo is home to three, a male Sundar, a female Khuis and their cub Ngima. They spend most of their time up trees resting and at first, we sat and waited and waited some more. It seemed our panda was more than happy in the tree and no amount of enticing fruit and vegetables could tempt him down.

The great thing about the encounter is that its totally up to the panda if they want to join you or not. Apart from showing them the tempting snacks there is no further enticing or force used. If the panda doesn’t want to say hi it’s tough.

We were able to sit around and chat with our guide who provided us with a wealth of knowledge about the red pandas at the zoo and the conservation work being done in general. He was also able to tell us about the characters of each of the pandas, which just like people is unique.

Eventually after peering up into the branches of the tree desperately pleading with my eyes for my panda to join me we gave up and moved to another area of the enclosure.

Red Panda favourite snacks

This time we were in luck. Manasa the oldest fellow in this block was more interested in tucking into grub than worrying about us. This game old guy has been with the zoo a long time and having been born in 2009 he was old now by Red Panda terms. This, however, didn’t stop him racing down from his tree to seek out our knees. He knew the game. Coming over and acting deliciously cute and getting a feed of panda favourites, apples, carrot and his least favourite kumara. He was deliberately picking out the kumara and leaving it too very last. Even pandas are picky with their food as they grow older it would seem!

Red Panda Encounter at Wellington Zoo

As a group we sat on logs that made up a seating area and covered our knees with blankets to protect us from the sharp claws. Mamasa was happy to clamber up and crawl along between us all. We were told that we could very gently stroke his thick coat, just not his head that was strictly out of bounds. As I gently patted him as he ate from my hand I felt truly humbled and honoured at such a special encounter.

Nothing beats a gentle stroke

The encounter lasts about 30-40 minutes and is worth every moment. With the ticket you are able to visit the rest of the zoo which is a great way to spend a morning. There are several other animal encounters available to book, although our guide informed us that the red panda and meerkat encounters were the most popular, often booked months in advance.

Posing for the camera, Red Panda style

Dart River Funyaks

Floating down a crystal-clear river surrounded by towering mountain peaks in an inflatable kayak is quite a surreal experience. Dart River flows down and through Mt Aspiring National Park. It’s a peaceful paradise with only the sound of nature to disturb you, think gurgling river and noisy bird life - come on you know the score, this is New Zealand after all.

a gorgeous sunset over Lake Waikatipu

Dart River Adventures offer a variety of ways to explore this picturesque place but I had opted for the funyaks - something I definitely couldn’t experience anywhere else. It meant a full day exploring some untouched wilderness deep in the heart of Mt Aspiring National Park, north of the small settlement of Glenorchy - think prime ‘Lord of the Rings’ scenery on tap - this area was where a lot of the scenes from the trilogy were filmed.

It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage area in every sense and it will leave your senses invigorated.

And so, my day began at the Dart River Adventure office in Glenorchy with a briefing and introduction to the day ahead. I was given a range of waterproof and windproof gear to change into - what you choose to wear is up to you, but the weather can change quite quickly in these parts so best to be prepared. I joined a tour on a late March weekend when the New Zealand borders were closed due to COVID. This meant it was quiet, with only five of us on the trip. Our guides informed us that prior to the pandemic they had been taking numerous tours out each day, each one full. I felt lucky to have the occasion to myself more or less.

Once we had been equipped with our life jackets and other safety equipment, we clambered into the minibus to be driven the short distance to the pier to meet up with our waiting jet boat. The great thing about the full day trip with the Funyaks is that you get to experience both sides of the adventure - the first being the thrill of the jet boat flying up the river at full pelt and the second being the tranquil, lazily relaxed method of floating back down in your funyak.

A small mention - I will write a piece about Glenorchy in a later feature as it’s a fantastic place to visit and stay awhile. As is nearby Kinloch, just across the water.

Back to today’s adventure and clambering on board our jet boat we spread ourselves out with all the free space available (another benefit of the quieter trip). Our driver promised us he had years of experience driving jet boats and had actually come out of retirement to continue racing us down through this stunning landscape, he had missed it so much. I felt safe in his hands. Even more so when he kindly switched the heat on the metal grip handles for us to cling onto on this cold crisp Autumn morning in the mountains. He gave us a trial spin on Lake Waikatipu which we all shrieked and yelped in delight at before we began our manic dash up the river. It’s hard to describe a jet boat experience - it’s crazy, you get wet, you get blown away, yet you still can’t help laughing your head off from so much fun. At times the river seems to disappear up ahead or turn at an impossible angle, sometimes it seems too shallow to possibly get a boat through. Somehow our amazing driver found a way, barely slowing down or pausing to judge or consider. I tried my best to absorb the mind blowing scenery I was soaring through as we ventured further and further up the Dart River and deeper into the park. With no other way of entering this remote landscape, except on foot, you really are on your own surrounded by imposing, towering mountains, thick untouched native bush, lush and loud New Zealand bird song and of course the pure fresh mountain water. Our driver took breaks on the trip to tell us about the area, the names of the mountains we peered up at and the general nature and fauna of this special and unique part of the world. We ventured up the river as far as we could until Mother Nature had created a natural blockage of rockfall and debris that had flowed down from higher, preventing further travel. At this point we turned around and headed back down river to a stoney bank where our other guides were waiting, blowing up our Funyaks to begin the more serene part of the trip.

Second instalment of Dart River Funyaks to follow soon.

Orokonui - a New Zealand Ecosanctuary just north of Dunedin

Ever wondered what New Zealand was like prior to the arrival of us humans? The Orokonui Ecosanctuary is a good place to start. What I noticed first, even as I left my car in the car park and headed down a short slope to the visitor centre which houses the ticket office and cafe, was the birdsong. So loud and tuneful on a sunny autumn morning that it made me smile. New Zealand birds have unique tunes, they also have dialects related to their place in the country. Tui in particular sing different songs in different places. A Tui in Northland probably wouldn’t recognise the tune of a Tui down here in Otago.

Orokonui is a real treat for anyone seeking nature and an impression of what New Zealand could be like if all the habitat remained as it had been, free of human interference. The sanctuary is protected by a predator proof fence that covers nearly 9km’s around the valley its situated in. Sitting on a mountain side which slopes down to Blueskin Bay in Waitati below there are various clearings to take in the stunning views all around.

The stunning views and setting of Orokonui Sanctuary

Entry to the Sanctuary is by access code provided on arrival. This lets you through a couple of doors and past the fence. There is the option of a one-hour guided tour throughout the day. These are highly popular with visitors as a guide escort’s you along the main pathways and introduces you to plenty of birds and fauna along the way. If you aren’t familiar with New Zealand habitats, I would strongly recommend these. I elected to do a self-guided tour on this occasion and armed with a map provided by reception, I headed out down the yellow coded pathway (the easy strolls) named after various local birds. My first encounter was with a very special bird - the Takahe. The Takahe is the famous flightless bird that was believed to be extinct until a hiker deep within the Fiordland National Park accidentally came across one on his adventures. Thankfully these large distinctive birds are still around and although nationally threatened, due to places like Orokonui, their numbers are slowly building. I was told that the sanctuaries resident couple were quite people friendly and as I approached ‘their lawn’ they sauntered over and surrounded me in a pincer movement! Trust me this isn’t as daunting as it sounds, they may be big turkey size birds with striking bright blue and green bodies and short red beaks, but they are pretty harmless. As it turned out brunch had arrived (for the Takahe, not for me) in the form of a converted child’s buggy full of grain to fill their feeders dotted around the Takahe lawn. Turns out they thought I might be todays waitress and that was why they were so keen to confront me!

The special place home to so many native endangered New Zealand birds

After my close encounter with the Takahe I joined the Fernbird Track leading down to the Tui Track. There are heaps of tracks in Orokonui looping and dividing off each other. Split into three categories the yellow tracks are for easy walking, green tracks moderate and the red are harder (the type where walking boots would be recommended). I began with yellow and looped my way around to green. Unfortunately, I hadn’t come prepared on this visit for the red track but it’s a good excuse to call again! The first thing you become aware of as you venture further into the Ecosanctuary, down ‘Tui Track’ is the birdsong, loud and proud it’s a joyful reminder of how New Zealand used to sound before human and predator introduction. Bellbirds, the dark olive-green bird with a gorgeous tune sing louder than all. Kaka, the large parrot with distinctive red underwings, screeched ‘shark’, their call tune, time and again. Kereru perched high up on tree branches above - these are the distinctive New Zealand pigeons with small heads and big bodies. South Island Robins scuttled through the undergrowth foraging on grubs. They are pretty tame and are used to human footfall as we disturb the ground for them to seek and scoff their leaf litter.

Further along the Tui Track, through dense regenerating native bush I came across a feeder which had just been refilled. The cacophony of noise and bird chatter was immense. I have never seen so many Tui in one place, squabbling and scrapping as only Tui can. They love to fight for territory and argue amongst themselves. Tui are so New Zealand. They have a glossy coat of blue and black with a distinctive white tuft underneath. They sing a mesmeric tune that they ring out frequently interspersed with clicks and cackles. They are usually very territorial so to see them altogether like this was quite rare and pretty spectacular.

Strolling around the views across the forest, up across the volcano and down to the bays below are quite something.

I spent a couple of hours but could easily have wandered all afternoon if time had allowed. The information centre has a cafe for refreshments and a break.

Entry to Orokonui with on site cafe

Sunrise Kayak - Milford Sound

After my crazy drive to reach Milford Sound before dawn (please see my article on the Milford Road drive to get an idea of the sheer madness I am referring too) I was ready for a lie down! However, there was a good reason for me to reach Piopiotaki (Milford Sound) so early and whilst it was still bucketing it down with rain - a Sunrise Kayak. It was quite literally dark, dingy and cold and most certainly not the type of weather to go kayaking in. I met my guide anticipating a sea of apologies about the weather (as if they could do anything about that) and the calling off of my kayak adventure. Instead, I was greeted with a warm welcome (both personally and in general as the heat of the visitor centre was very much appreciated) and told that I would soon be taken to get started out on my trip. The Sunrise Classic was on and the drive from hell was possibly going to be worth my while.

One of the many stunning waterfalls to be found at Milford Sound

I’d dressed in warm gear and waterproof clothes but was told to leave that all behind. Instead, I was ordered to slip on some thermal underwear and a warm fleece and spray jacket. Apparently, it’s cold out there on that Sound. I don’t know what was worse to be honest, the very inelegant underwear or the attack of the sandflies that had awoken with the first rays of light ravenous now the rainstorm had finally stopped. By the time I’d attached my life jacket I’d been literally swarmed - thankfully insect repellent was a plenty. '

View of the river leading to Milford Sound and close to the kayak ‘changing rooms’

Once in our kayaks our guide led us out into a small outlet of Milford Sound away from the harbour area where all the large cruise ships operated.

Looking back at the docking point for cruises taking trips down Milford Sound

There were only four kayaks and our guide, a nice small group and we all got know a little a bit about one another at our safety briefing. It was then a paddle across Fiordland. I looked up to the pleasant surprise of seeing clouds clearing above Mitre Peak - the famous mountain that is to be found on almost every image of Milford Sound and is believed to be the highest mountain to rise out of the sea. It’s quite something to see it early morning with the sun rising.

Looking out down Milford Sound on a hazy wet morning

Soon though our attention was distracted by something even more special. A rare Fiordland Crested penguin had just arrived on the edge of the bank right in front of us and was busy cleaning itself down. The poor guy was being hounded by the sandflies who were then more than happy to attack us as we approached closer to our newfound penguin friend. Leaving said penguin to some peace we followed the shore of the Sound further around the coastline with the only sound being the slaps of our paddles in the water. The water here is a mixture of darkened freshwater from the waterfalls and sea water. As you stare upwards at the steep granite rock faces that seem to tower above your forever you feel mighty small. There surely is no better way to experience such a place than in a kayak out amongst it all.

Our guide now set us a challenge, to paddle the full width of the Sound. It sounds easy but when the wind rises, and the waves become bigger it can be quite a battle. I would recommend a moderate level of fitness for this adventure. It was worth the paddle and the excitement of surfing the waves created by the various boats that passed by taking day trippers on scenic cruises of the Sound - an absolute must do by the way, to reach Harrison Cove on the far side. I actually know Harrison Cove pretty well - I once spent an overnight stay here when on the Milford Mariner and I will write a blog about how incredible and well worth it that experience was at a later date.

Milford Mariner heading out down the sound on a cruise

Harrison Cove is the areas most sheltered anchorage, hence the overnight tours stopping here. It is usually a great spot to spy on snoozing New Zealand fur seals resting on rocks nearby. As we turned back towards the end of the Sound we came across Bowen Falls - a stunning waterfall dropping 160metres from a hanging valley high above. It is the perfect spot to see from a kayak as you can paddle right underneath it. The rocks on the approach create an archway in the water below and we had a spectacular rainbow created above us by the plunging water. Paddling under and through the waterfall is quite a surreal experience. The photos taken do not celebrate the magic anywhere near enough.

It’s magical in a kayak at Bowen Falls

After an incredible morning spent paddling roughly 10kms. We headed back to base all reluctant to leave our small piece of paradise. Kayaking Milford Sound is the most peaceful way to enjoy this unique spot.

Accommodation Inspirations Part 3 - Waterfront Motel at Akaroa, Banks Peninsula

Top Tip - stay at Waterfront Apartments and Motel which are exactly that (no false marketing here I promise) - on the waterfront. Literally only metres from dipping your toes in the sea from your balcony.

View looking down from balcony at rest of motel complex

It’s also central for the small township with lots of cafes and restaurants close by. But it is also private and quiet enough to make you feel you have the spectacular sunset, that nature kindly provides, all to yourself. Sit on your private balcony watching the sunset across the water and behind the sloping hills beyond is quite something. Mind you, so is the local bird life, there are numerous seabirds, rare New Zealand seagulls, Oystercatchers, geese, ducks, you name it. Then there are the land-based locals such as fantails and Kereru that swoop and squawk inches from your balcony seat.

You don’t get much closer to the sea than this, view at low tide

The room is comfortable with a small sofa area, dining table and kitchen complete with a stove top and microware - ideal for self-caterers or those that have discovered the magnificence of the Akaroa Butchery around the corner.

Inside the comfortable room

A weekend in Akaroa can be enjoyed either on land or water and some awesome ideas to whet your appetite for this gorgeous spot will follow in the next week or so.

A glass of wine whilst watching the sunset on your balcony is a special treat

Accommodation Inspirations - Part 2 - Cattle Flat Hut

A hidden hovel, well no, not quite. Well sort off, but that’s really not the right description. I mean it is hidden but a hovel, certainly not. Cattle Flat Hut is found in a secluded spot at Banks Peninsula about an hour’s drive from central Christchurch, the South Island’s biggest city. It seems a world away from anywhere. If the last days were to happen whilst you were staying at Cattle Flat Hut, I am willing to bet it would take you months to be discovered. If you want to escape the everyday hustle and bustle of life, or simply just relax a while, immerse yourself in nature and the luxury of peace and quiet it’s well worth considering spending a few days here.

Not quite a hovel, Cattle Flat Hut

The hut itself is found down a winding farm track, across pastures and through closed gates. The only life you will see are the sheep that graze these paddocks and love nothing more than welcoming you with a hearty baa. To be honest most are shy and scarper as you approach but beware, they do leave their poop behind for good measure to it’s worth bringing your gum boots or other enclosed footwear with you.

Sheep are your only neighbours at Cattle Flat Hut

The hut itself is not visible until you approach the end of the track. It ensures total privacy. I actually got worried at one point that I’d got the wrong turn off and was edging my way towards falling over the side of one of the cliff-faces. Overlooking Pigeon Bay, the volcanic hillside’s role down the valley and on a clear day the views out to the Pacific Ocean are magical. You can see for miles across to the horizon with the welcome knowledge that you are all alone.

All alone at the hut

The hut is compact but more than big enough for two people. There is a small kitchen with everything you could possibly need.

The kitchen at Cattle Flat Hut

A BBQ is also available outside the back door. The shower has oodles of hot water and there is an outside bathtub to truly appreciate those clear starry night skies. A double bed and two cosy armchairs bedside a small wood burning stove complete the set up. Outside there is a large deck area with a table and chair set, perfect of an al-fresco breakfast or lunch on a sunny day enjoying those captivating views.

Bathtub, outside table and chair set and those views across Pigeon Bay and beyond

I’ve stayed here twice now, trust me it’s not enough, although it’s the benefit I guess of living just a short drive away. For anyone wanting a taste of New Zealand or just some time out I’d totally recommend it. You could take a good book (or in this writer’s case a pen and paper) and while away the hours chilling. You may want to be creative and consider the next stage of your life. Alternatively, if you do yearn for some civilisation, Akaroa, is just a short drive across the Peninsula where you can find some great lunch spots - an article to follow I promise, offering some great ideas.

The wood burning stove and more views

Accommodation Inspirations - Part 1 - Purepods

Purepods are a novel getaway experience that leave you feeling that you’ve been on a little adventure all of your own.

My Purepod

Finding the pod is part of the experience. I left the main road and ventured down an unsealed driveway that took me across a trio of fords that were deep enough to make the back tyres spin (please don’t let this put you off, part of the fun is navigating these easy crossings - the worst that can happen is you get your feet wet getting out to push!). Close to a farmhouse I had instructions to park the car and take my belongings with me for a twenty-minute walk through bush to my Purepod. Having read the instructions, I came prepared and had everything crammed into my backpack, clothes, food, of course wine, and a good book. I really wouldn’t recommend any large luggage items or roller cases as this is the bush in New Zealand and all you will do is create a great deal of amusement for any sheep or cows you encounter. The walk though is lovely, up through bush and with clear signage to follow. As you reach a higher patch of land you can look down over the wide braided river beneath. After a wee while, and for some uncertain moments, thinking you might have actually missed it, you turn a corner, and your pod appears like an illusion. Purepods are famous for being made largely out of glass so that they blend in with the landscape. Being off grid means they are eco-friendly, relying on solar power and rainwater.

Looking down across the braided river, we even spotted a couple of deer one evening

Approaching the pod from the front it looked amazing. The glass seems to reflect the gorgeous scenery rather than ruin it. The door slides open from the large, expansive deck (great for taking in all those views) to reveal a bed that you could just fall into and never climb out off. A small table and chair set (clear plastic - which wasn’t the comfiest I must confess) and a kitchen area with every possible tool you could think of to use. Behind the kitchen is the bathroom that bordered on luxury. The shower with its glass side, took in the views beyond. You could literally stand washing your hair whilst gazing out over the most awe-inspiring scenery, and no one could see, except a few sheep who were more shocked than me!! When darkness falls you pray for a clear night. With the glass roof and sides, gazing up from the bed into the abyss of stars and galaxies is a revelation to behold. Trust me there are more stars than you can ever imagine out there. There are blinds but please don’t be a fool, you are here for the stars and sunrise, don’t block it out. Waking up naturally at dawn to the sun rising across the countryside and the sound of the birds’ chorus is truly one of the best experiences. Grab a coffee and jump back under the covers to simply enjoy the moment.

Gorgeous far-reaching views across the Kaikoura Ranges

A stroll in a natural slice of paradise, the Kowai River Walk

The fan tail fluttered around me as I strolled purposefully alongside the sandy riverside track. Purpose built for both walkers and cyclists (and even the odd horse) the Kowai River Walk is a pleasant way to get out and about in the fresh air. The track starts just beside the State Highway one, the main road cutting through the eastern side of New Zealand’s South Island. Just beside a bridge by the Kowai River the track continues along with the braided river on one side and farmland on the other.

Tussock grasses separate the river from the pathway

It’s then a stroll through a small forest area where native bush is being planted by enthusiastic locals trying to return the area to how it once was. A short while into the walk I began to hear the familiar sound of waves pounding the rocky shoreline. I had reached the river mouth and looked out upon the raised shelf sheltering the forest and path from the raw thunder and ferocity of the ocean. It was here I met up with another track leading up over the stones and pebbles and built for quad bikes and all-terrain vehicles to have some fun, maybe even reach the mouth of the river to enjoy some fishing. The path I was following continued parallel with the sea, sheltered by the stony enclave and numerous patches of regenerating vegetation. There was a small patch of pine forest separating me from fields and property beyond. It was around these parts that I met my friendly fantail, hovering behind me as I disturbed the earth all around making it easier for him to help himself to any insects that might have emerged. As I reached the Leithfield Beach coastal settlement the replanted bush was more widespread and mature. There were small seating areas created for picnics or just rest periods. The walk ends at the carpark for the beach, the firm sand ideal for walking along and watching the surfers waiting to catch the perfect wave. It’s a lovely spot to spend some time, either paddling in the foamy waves that form on the beach or just kicking back and taking in the view. You can easily lose yourself in the moment as nature becomes your only focus and dominates your senses.

The path is well formed as you make your way along changing scenery to the beach and village

Want to know a secret? Shush it's Karamea

Want to know a secret?

There is a place at the very end of the road, literally, that transports you to another world. A world where all the cares and concerns of the modern day are seemingly swept away. It’s secluded, beautiful and peaceful, and once you visit you will never want to leave. The place is called Karamea and it’s the very last town at the top of the West Coast of the South Island. The road stops here. Bordered by the Kahurangi National Park and the Tasman Sea this place if both rugged, secluded and spectacular. If you love nature you are in your element. Views are everywhere, the beaches are insanely white and the bush smoothers every untouched spot. Stay a night or two and I promise you, you will fall in love.

Kahurangi National Park

Warning - take plenty of insect repellent though as these perfect empty beaches are deserted for a reason, tiny black sand flies love to dominate these lands they call their own. Visitors are breakfast, lunch and dinner, ideally all three!

The town of Karamea is a lovely spot to hang out. The Last Resort is the local accommodation centre with a motel, cottages and back packers it caters for every budget. There is a central complex with a restaurant, cafe and bar that seem to be open in some format all the time. The Iced Coffee is as good as the morning muffins which are almost as tasty as the quiches. It’s a top spot to base yourself at and explore the local area.

Looking out from the motel room at The Last Resort

A short drive outside of Karamea you discover some of the best sports on the West Coast which are ironically some of the least visited. A twisty, unsealed road, not suitable for campervans or indeed any un-sturdy vehicle takes you down through dense bush to the Oparara Basin. A hidden valley in Kahurangi National Park that is home to limestone caves and arches. It is quite beautiful. I was lucky to meander down the walkway through the bush to have the whole place to myself.

Looking out through the Oparara Basin

The arch is 200 metres long and spans the Oparara River. It was a gentle stream when I was there but I can imagine after a few days of West Coast rain it can become quite the torrid river tearing through and leaving its scar on this stunning landscape.

Following the river through the bush

My favourite spot was another short walk away - the Moria Gate Arch. Clambering down a small rock face takes you through to the opening and it is truly gorgeous.

Pictures do not do it justice

Moria Gate Arch from the inside

Looking out of Moria Gate Arch the other way

Like something from a movie set (which ironically it is!). The loop walk through the bush continues past Moria Gate Arch and takes about 90 minutes to complete.

I recommend carrying on rather than retracing your steps back to the carpark. The bush is quite something in these parts and worth taking time to stroll through and just breath in that air.

Following the loop bush walk

Another top spot just north of Karamea is another of my absolute favourites, I will write about it in my next article……