Spotting a rare Leopard Seal on a visit up to New Zealand

Last weekend I drove through to the small coastal settlement of Akaroa for the day. The day had begun cold yet dry and there was frost at the side of the road where the sun had been unable to warm through. I stopped first at The White Rabbit Café which has just opened on the Geddes Pass intersection in place of one of my favorite cafes. A spruce up inside had created a cosy atmosphere which was still busy despite the cold start. I tried one of their raspberry and lemon scones with a Flat White coffee. So far so good, I’ll be back for one of their brunches shortly.

Continuing along to Akaroa I passed small settlements and hardly any other traffic. Although it was a lovely day without a cloud in the sky it appeared it was too cold for a lot of my fellow Canterbrians to head out this way. Fine by me, I love strolling through Akaroa when it’s quiet. I got parked easily and walked alongside the beach and waterfront. It was peaceful with the sea so flat it looked like a mirror reflecting the sunlight.

The peace and calm of Akaroa Harbour on a winters day

I wandered down to the end of the pier to watch a shag dive down to catch small fish below – he bobbed up several times everyone with a small catch in his mouth – it must have been good fishing that day. I wandered past the waterfront cafes and shops, some had people braving the cold to sit outside and appreciate the views, others looked as though they had a scattering of people inside. I continued on towards the lighthouse. On the small beach in front of me I noticed a shape. At first, I thought it was a poor New Zealand fur seal taken ill on the sand. But on closer inspection I discovered it was a Leopard Seal. It rolled over stretched and peered up at me with big shiny black eyes. Although it was right next to the pathway it wasn’t the slightest bit bothered by my presence rather it was just curious from the sound whenever a car drove by.

The slumbering Leopard Seal in Akaroa Harbour

Really it was the ideal spot for a seal to slumber, so close to the sea that it would take seconds to escape if it felt threatened although I suspect with its large head and mouth full of sharp teeth it would be more of us in trouble than him. The seal was long, light grey with a large head and pronounced nose. It had black spots on its underneath which made me instantly aware of what he was. He looked very different to our Fur Seals. I spoke with the local sailing crew who were taking photographs. They had never seen a Leopard Seal so close up either - what a chance, what a privilege.

New Regent Street, Christchurch's top night spot (and it's good by day too)

Many claim that New Regent Street is New Zealand’s prettiest street, they could well be right. It certainly stands out from the crowd when placed next to many other mundane city streets. New Regent Street dates back to the 1920’s and the time of Art Deco. Its terraced buildings are two storey and are painted in pastel colours that make for a pretty background as you stroll along. The cobbled walkway also adds to the historic atmosphere. The street is pedestrian only except for the tram lines that run along one side – the Christchurch tram trundles through the heart of the street on its circuits of the central city.

The street is home to a number of excellent cafes, bars and eateries. There is even an ice-cream parlour which I’ll talk about in another blog (believe me it deserves its own blog).

Queues outside Rollikin Gelato - the ice cream parlour that deserves its own blog

There is pavement seating with attractive benches and tables aplenty. There are several shops, selling an array of items including jewellery, old records and even a cookie store. Whilst it’s a lovely spot to visit during the day it really comes alive at night. The cafes close up and the bars and restaurants buzz. First there is ‘Gin Gin’ a trend setting cocktail bar which even produces its own gin. It has a fully stocked bar of just about every gin type a gin-alcoholic can imagine.

Try the cocktails at ‘Gin Gin’

There are some good food options to if you are feeling a bit peckish. Tables are found both upstairs and down in the small space. There is also a scattering of bench tables outside if it gets too crushed inside. A short stroll from ‘Gin Gin’ is ‘27 Steps’ a restaurant that has been popular for a number of years now and continues to be outstanding. The bar area downstairs is buzzing and has its own menu, but upstairs the area opens up into a light filled space with window seats aplenty. It is always packed, and bookings are a must. Think hearty dishes such as Tai Taupo Venison with red win jus, lamb fry and blue cheese cheesecake, my mouth waters just thinking about it. Along from ‘27 Steps’ is ‘Institution’ another tiny wine bar, come cocktail lounge. Tables are made up from old school desks with blackboards and chalk to scribble on. ‘The Nook’ is another treat, a small Thai restaurant that offers great meals and is a long-standing favourite. As is ‘Casa Republica’ found at the very end of New Regent Street. A South Amercian restaurant and bar which is dark, moody, and has a rum list like no other. Its meals are served in some entertaining ways, make sure you order the guacamole. Across the road a short distance away is the ice cream bar I will mention later and next door to that is ‘The Last Word’, a top spot for whiskey - its list is enormous with representations from all over the world. It also produces some excellent cocktail option and has a wine list showcasing local Canterbury Vineyards. Follow the creaky staircase and the room upstairs is furnished with the sort of quirky furniture you would have expected to find in your grandma’s house, lots of candles and lampshades. Downstairs is small and cosy, with a busy bar area opening up to outdoor tables and chairs for a lovely spot for a night-time tipple in the heart of New Regent Street. They don’t provide heat pumps, but they do offer you a blanket.

A night-time tipple at The Lost Word shouldn’t be missed

Ross Revisited

The tiny West Coast settlement of Ross plays homage to its gold town past. It’s easy to drive straight through this township as you venture down ‘the Coast’ to more familiar attractions such as Fox Glacier or Franz Josef. Ross is about a 25-minute drive from Hokitika and I confess that although I’ve been to Hoki many times I have always tended to take the sharp right turn through Ross and continue on my journey, most times telling myself that one time I would like to stop and explore this historic gold town with its tourist signs depicting its golden past.

Eventually I did make that stop. I actually made a point of staying overnight in Ross itself - something that I never imagined I would do. The Ross Campsite is something of a secret gem. I’m not sure how I found about it but boy I am so grateful I did. What a hidden joy. Situated a short distance outside the main settlement it is right beside the beach and is a wonderful spot to spend a night or two. In fact I could possibly stay a week!

The facilities are excellent and the camp makes good use of its natural surroundings. A backdrop of native bush separates each of the areas. You can camp amongst it or even pull up by the beach if you so wish. On a calm night watching the sun set into the ocean it would be surely worth it. I love staying the containers the site owners have creatively turned into sparkling accommodation options. There are quite a number dotted around the park and all offer a comfortable indoor and outdoor space to relax in.

One of the container accommodation options at the Ross Campsite, West Coast

Double or single beds, ensuites and tiny kitchen units provide all you need. Outside are private decks surrounded by bush with cheeky fan tails for company.

The private deck surrounded by native West Coast bush

There is a BBQ to cook on and even a Nespresso machine for those morning caffeine cravings. The site has its own barrista service available, a spa pool which can be booked in allocated slot times, and a pizza oven.

A handy kitchen with Nespresso machine

The best feature though is the short stroll to the rugged West Coast beach. Scattered with tree trunks, stones and sometimes snoozing seals and penguins it’s a great spot to lay your blanket out and a light up a beach fire with the dried wood. A glass of pinot noir in hand with the warmth of the fire glowing on your face it’s one of my absolute favourite spots for a stunning West Coast sunset. Especially when the rustic orange orb of the setting sun sinks majestically into the Tasman Sea in front of you. My only beware though is the resident sandflies, that really do suck! Persistent savages even with full body armour and plenty of repellent spray on they linger, always determined to win the battle with you in their little slice of paradise.

The West Coast of New Zealand, wilderness

If you can tear yourself away from this idyllic spot - trust me it’s hard, then the short trip into Ross is worth the while. My next article will focus on the Ross the gold town.

Take a walk on the wild side, or simply catch a cable car high to take you high above Christchurch

The views across the Canterbury Plains were quite breathtaking on this cold July morning when Jack frost had paid a visit.

Dan a little bit chilled at the top of the cable car

The air was still and the sun blazed in a giant gold ball over the Pacific Ocean beyond. There was hardly a cloud in the sky which made it the perfect condition for visiting the Christchurch Adventure Park. It was already busy with early risers when I arrived. Keen mountain bikers were collecting their passes, renting their bikes or practicing their moves all around me. I was here for a more steady time. I’d come to check the place out and had already purchased on-line my ticket for the cable car. The bottom part of the park is set within a woodland of pine trees. The buildings are made from wood also and consist of a ticket office and information centre, retail shop, bike hire and equipment area and a very large attractive café with a huge deck area complete with heaters. I decided the café would be the perfect spot for later but right now I was keen to check the place out. I made my way up towards the base for the cable car. I passed a gap in the woodland which signposted for walkers. Apparently you can climb to the top of the Port Hills and ride the cable car back down for free – I am planning to return to do this in a few weeks. This time I was cheating though. I waited in line for the mountain bikers to hook their bikes into the cable car spaces. Once the bikes are secure another lift arrives for the people to sit in. I positioned myself in line and claimed my seat. There is enough space for four on the cable car, but two is the perfect number. The bar pulls down over you to secure you in place and then with a whoosh you are off. The car hoisting you along and up through the forest canopy. The rise to begin with was steady and the drop down not too hair raising. A bellbird swooped past low over the trees. And then we began to climb, in some places quite steeply, in others very close to the cliff face. Looking down I spotted several wild goats using their horns to ruck with one another. Bikers whizzed down the tracks just out of reach of the cable car. I continued up further so that in front of me I could make out the port at Lyttleton Harbour and the teal blue of the sea. Daring to look behind me the whole of Canterbury appeared to be laid out in a patchwork of flatness, fields interspersed with the wide stretches of the braided rivers. Beyond them all stood the majestic snow smothered peaks of the Southern Alps. I had reached the top and scurried off the cable car trying to dodge the bikers keen to find their trails. In front of me stood a wind blown yellow sign pointing in various directions different places across the south island. A snow covered pathway took me on a loop walk above the cable car so that I could look across the landscape of the Canterbury Plains. Behind me was the volcanic slopes of the Banks Peninsula. I felt as though I was on top of the world, and the frosty wind that blew at my face was a fierce reminder that I could well have been.

The views from the top of the Christchurch Adventure Park

After taking the prerequisite photos and gradually getting my bearings so I could work out which mountain of the Southern Alps I was looking across at I caught the cable car back down again. At the bottom keen to warm my toggles I called in at the café. A flat white and a piece of their carrot cake worked a treat. They also had some lovely looking pies and rolls available as well as a licensed bar. As I was studying my map of the adventure park I noticed another loop walk that started from behind the café. Keen to get some steps in I headed off into the forest looping around the biking tracks. Signs were in place to tell me all about the local birds that could be spotted in the area, including fan tails, marsh falcons and tomtits. It was probably too cold on this particular morning for bird spotting but I imagine in summer it would be fun. What was fun though was watching the bikers tear down the trails all around me. These were the intermediate tracks and some jumps were visible as I wandered along watching the dare devil antics of the more experienced mountain bikers.

Christchurch Adventure Park has won all sorts of plaudits, and despite some initial teething troubles is well worth paying a visit too.

Meeting the Little Blue Penguins of Pilot Beach, Otago, part 2

You are greeted by your guides who tell you a little bit about the area and the penguins before the fun part begins and you make your way by torchlight down the long zigzagging walkway. Several years ago when I first visited this beach there was no boardwalk and you could literally pull up and park your car almost on top of were the penguins nest. Needless to say this didn’t fair well and the penguin numbers dwindled depressingly. Now locals have fought back and access to this incredible experience is only available through guided tours. The penguins now protected with replanting having also been carried out and said boxes put in place to provide them with safe and secure homes have started to fight back and the great news is that numbers are increasing like never before. My guides told me they are regularly counting over 100 arrivals each night.

Little penguins are everywhere here

The wooden boardwalk is excellent, it’s huge for plenty of people to enjoy unrivalled views and close ups of the penguins without causing them any disturbance. The penguins throughout the hour long time I spent there were beside me and sometimes even underneath me, they like to hang out under the platform. Lighting is provided to help you easily spot them. This same lighting is turned off as soon as the tour finishes to leave the penguins in the darkness of their natural habitat. We watched for nearly an hour as more and more penguins landed face down on the beach – some in smaller rafts and some just in pairs or on their own. They all clumsily ran from the beach to the little penguin walkways they have made in the down trodden grass as soon as they could. It was amusing to watch their antics. Some stood for a while trying to guess where they were and listening out for the endless calls of other penguins waiting for them further up the beach. Some went the wrong way and had to turn around and scurry back to where they had come from, and one box beside the platform had a penguin known to the guides as ‘grumpy’ as he had a habit of yelping at any other penguin who got to close, at one point he put his head out and scurried over to push another innocent penguin over – grumpy by name and by nature it would seem.

A little penguin a small distance from me checking out the underside of the viewing platform

The penguins are a noisy bunch. Cries and squawks could be constantly heard as we stood watching them make their way home.

The penguin march, just outside Grumpy’s home, which is top left

I’ve been  fortunate to experience a number of penguin homecomings over the last few years and all of them are a massive privilege that I thoroughly enjoy, however this one somehow is quite unique. It feels as though you are almost alongside the penguins as they are so close to you but at the same time you are entering their world to watch their little life’s play out for a short amount of time, and it would seem cause them very little disturbance which is a huge honour.

Hinewai Reserve - at the far end of Banks Peninsula there is a very special place

Hinewai Reserve sits on a corner of the beautiful Banks Peninsula, a part of the South Island not far from Christchurch that juts out into the Pacific Ocean. It was created when two volcanos erupted millions of centuries ago – but that is a story for another day.

Waterfalls and streams make up the landscape of the reserve

Hinewai is an ecological restoration project. They are trying to restore this small corner of the peninsula back to how it originally used to be, before the first settlers arrived in the area and cut down all the natural habitat to make space for farming. The area is huge spreading out from the top of the peninsula down to the shoreline and the aptly named Stoney Bay and Long Bay.

Top of Hinewai Reserve looking down over the many bays that make up Banks Peninsula

I left my car in the small parking area at the top of the reserve, just a short drive from Bank’s Peninsula’s main township of Akaroa, and entered the park through the gateway. The track down to the information area is quite steep and slippery so be sure to wear suitable footwear. I also found a walking stick helpful for some of the more steep sections – remember this is a valley and some of the walking is up and down some fairly steep gradients that are often slippery. The information centre provides a small scale model of the actual park so you can plan your visit, there is also a map to take with you which is a necessity for finding your way around. There are a lot of tracks here going off in various directions and although the signage is really good it would be easy without a map to lose your sense of direction. The centre can also be booked for overnight stays – just bring your own sleeping bag and expect pretty basic facilities. A short walk from here is the owners house, sitting with great views over the whole reserve.

One of the many tracks to follow at Hinewai

Basically how long you stay, and indeed what tracks you take depend on you – there are many to choose from and they take you across, down and through the reserve. As you walk along the bush canopy is quite dense with vegetation.

Dan standing underneath one of the many grand old trees still standing here

There are several sidewalks that are signposted taking you over to pretty and petite waterfalls and some very old, large, grand trees, that thankfully survived all the felling. Every now and then you come across an information sign explaining the work being undertaken by the reserve volunteers. Gorse, originally from Scotland, spread and is a pest throughout New Zealand, and has a habit of taking over and destroying the native plants, but in Hinewai it is actually being used as a shelter to nurse and protect the new seedlings, that over time will grow in its shadow and gradually overtake and eventually destroy it. A very clever way of dealing with a severe potential nuisance. Such a great novel idea.

Thumbs up from Dan after one of the longer climbs

The idea is to return the area to New Zealand natural habitat of forest and bush and thereby bring back the native birds. Gradually they are returning, during my hike I heard the song of the bellbird (one right beside my ear!), Kereru the New Zealand wood pigeon, fan tails and even a Saddleback. It was early winter so I didn’t hear as many as I hoped and certainly no Tui, but give this a few months, when spring blossoms and the temperatures warm up and it will be a different story. I am already planning my return, to explore further into the reserve and take some of the longer walks, taking with me a picnic and much more water. The track back up to the top was a real thigh burner and running out of water at this point was hughly annoying, even if I was just a short walk from the top and my car. But turning around to take in the epic views as I climbed upwards made it all worthwhile.

One of the many streams running down through the reserve

How to get up close and personal with Little Blue Penguins

We’d just literally reached the wooden boardwalk a short distance from the sea and there they were. A gang of Little Blue penguins had just crash landed onto the rocky shoreline and were clumsily finding their flippers to steady themselves against the tide that continued to pound the beach beneath them.

 We had been told that the penguins arrived back in ‘rafts’ together as this meant safety in numbers. After a day spent fishing out at sea these tough little guys meet up a short distance from shore and with as many as possible in a group form what is known as a ‘raft’ to make their way to land. They then waddle unsteadily back to their nests which are found in the long grasses and burrowed earth of the coastline. They’ve also been very well helped out here at Pilot’s Beach as some nice friends of the human kind have put out boxes at various intervals to enable to the penguins to nest and claim one as their new home, they seem to have taken them to – well a duck to water, to excuse the pun.

The world’s smallest penguins arriving together in a ‘raft’ at Pilots Beach, Otago Peninsula

 Nightly tours are undertaken here at Pilots Beach at the end of the remote and rugged Otago Peninsula. The tours start at the Albatross information centre and checking times is a must as they change nightly depending on when it is expected to get dark. We only just made it down in time to spot the first arrivals! 

Getting so close to the penguins arriving home is such an honour

Next part coming in the next few days…..

Spotting some rather large baby birds on their nests... second part of Royal Albatross visit

The fun properly started at the point we headed outside into the lashing wind and rain – it seems albatross aren’t fussed about the unpredictable Southland weather. Wrapped up against the elements we passed through a couple of gates before climbing up a small hillside to the viewing observatory. There in front of us through the glass were several albatross chicks being blown about on their nests. We counted nine that were visible with our naked eye. Binoculars were provided to get a closer look at the chicks. They were all pretty big for babies and several where starting to shred their baby fluffy feathers for their adult markings. Apparently by the time they reach this age they are already 8kg, not bad for a five month old!! We were passed a soft toy version to hold to get an idea of the weight which was quite staggering to say the least. Dumbbells were not required! At this age the babies are much livelier and don’t just sit on the nests. One in front of us was busy doing some gardening and wandered up and down rearranging loose twigs and grass within easy ready. Others spent a lot of time standing up, opening their giant wings to give them a good shake. Whilst some just waddled about or looked up to the sky in the hope that Mum or Dad might return with some much-anticipated food. The parents take it in turns to return to the nest to feed the chicks and whilst we were there several adults flew over us looking for a spot to land. One actually did circle and manage to land not too far away, but unfortunately not to feed a chick that we could view.

A baby albatross chick accommpanied by some adults

One interesting thing our guide informed us was that Albatross don’t recognise their own young. So sometimes another egg can be put on the nest and the adult pair will adopt it as their own. The chicks are monitored closely as these birds are so endangered that none can afford to be lost, so if some are struggling or a parent goes missing, as occasionally happens sadly, then rangers will step in and feed them themselves. Each chick relies on both it’s parents as they leave and return separately to feed it. Rearing takes 7 months and takes a lot of food so it’s impossible for a chick to fledge with only one parent to care for it. Our guide showed us a notice board with all the nests we were able to see from the observatory listed. It had details of the parents. All birds that nest here are tagged in different colours so that they can be accounted for, the birth date of the chick and it’s weight – they are weighed frequently by the rangers. Any bird underweight is then fed additional food. It’s a full-time bird parenting job for some of these rangers in conditions that are not so hospitable at times. By September the parents have left for a year at sea and the chicks are ready to fledge. Once they take that mighty plunge out across the sea they do not appear on land, or at Taiaroa Head again, for another 4 -6 years. These amazing chicks are off travelling the world on their Kiwi overseas adventure.

View over the Otago Peninsula

After an incredible close up experience and now being fully versed in the life of an albatross we wrapped up warm for the walk back down to the visitor centre. We passed the old jail cells on route – on a day like I visited these open air cells must have been quite a punishment for anyone stepping out of line. Thankfully I was able to escape and made my way back to the warmth of the café and the nourishment of a tasty afghan biscuit (found all over New Zealand afghan biscuits are made from cornflakes and super chocolatey and well worth a try).

A visit to the only Royal Albatross colony easily assessable is a must do

There is only one easily accessible albatross colony to be found anywhere in the world and it’s right here on the South Island of New Zealand.

 Back in the early 1900’s this wasn’t the case. These incredible birds with wingspans of over 3 metres spend years flying around the planet, only stopping to sleep and rest on the surface of the sea. They don’t settle on land except to find a mate, build a nest and for a few months raise and feed their chicks.

They began a colony here at Taiaroa Head on the edge of the Otago Peninsula just after the first world war. The first Albatross egg was recorded as having been laid here in 1920. Nobody really knows why the Albatross chose to nest here on this bleak windswept headland. It may have actually been due to human disturbance as the area was cleared of bush and trees back in the late 1880’s when the perceived Russian threat became apparent. Due to the threat of war between Britain and Russia, New Zealand became responsible for its own defence, and created forts in prominent positions such as this one. At the turn of the century with a barracks and an ‘Armstrong Disappearing Gun’ in place there were over 100 people living at the fort. Nowadays what is left of these defences remain, and tours can be taken to explore them. The headland is very much the preserve now of the albatross with a few other seabirds and New Zealand Fur Seals loliking about on the rock's lower reaches.

The Otago Peninsula, home to the world’s most assessable albatross colony

 The Royal Albatross Centre is operated by the Otago Peninsula Trust. Their visitor building can be found at the very end of the road that threads along the coastline. Here there is a car park which offers you great views from every direction. The visitor centre is home to a museum that provides interesting information about the albatross and all the other seabirds and marine mammals found in the area. It also tells the story of Taiaroa Head from the time it was known as Pukekura by Maori who occupied the area from about 700 years ago. Then came the European settlers who built the lighthouses until the Russian threat and the military fort. The centre is also home to an excellent café (the coffee is top notch and the biscuits worth a treat) and a shop which sells a vast array of Kiwiana.

The Department of Conservation allows the Otago Peninsula Trust to conduct hourly tours regularly throughout the day and these are well worth booking yourself on. Only small tour groups are allowed due to not wanting to disturb the albatross. There were only six of us on our tour. We started with a welcome from our guide and then were taken into a theatre where we all grabbed a seat for a short yet really interesting presentation about the albatross we were about to meet.

Continues shortly….

Nothing sings brunch in Christchurch quite like Miro

Miro is situated in a beautifully renovated building in central Christchurch – one that thankfully survived the devasting impact of the two earthquakes in September 2010 and February 2011.

Table and chairs are available on the pavement outside, which is a popular spot in summertime – the road in front is mainly pedestrian traffic only and a paved walkway has been created beside the River Avon. The building overlooks a small bridge so is quite a peaceful spot.

Miro itself is on the ground floor, entered through the main wooden doors and by turning to your left. There is an ornate lift in front of you which must date back to the age of the building and a rather grand looking staircase to the upper levels. Miro is just through a double set of push doors. You are greeted by the hustle and bustle of an open plan kitchen together with the delicious smells that this creates. The café is usually quite bustling as it’s a popular brunch spot with all age groups. I usually try to book a table if I can as otherwise you might find yourself having to wait a short while. There are two grand real fireplaces in the room which provide a cosy atmosphere on colder Canterbury mornings. It’s sometimes needed as the ceilings are high and the large windows are only single glazed and can be a little drifty.

Parmesan waffles with house smoked salmon is a dream

 The atmosphere is everything you want in a café, great service, and a cosy ambience. But it’s the food and drink that really make this place – it’s just so good.

Sweet and savoury?

 Brunch is brunch but this is another level. There is no simple porridge or eggs on toast on this menu, just clever original alternatives that sing off the menu. Trying to decide which to sample is the hardest part.

Hold your breath that's a sperm whale just a short distance away, Kaikoura Whale Watching continued

The whales can stay down below water for an average of around 45 minutes so the hope is always that you haven’t arrived just as it has dived. We hung around peering keenly out to sea all seeking the sign of a blow of water into the air that would signal the surfacing of the whale. In the meantime we saw an array of sea birds including a range of different albatross. We also spotted a small group of the area’s local dusky dolphins. After a while our captain put his sound system in the water again and declared he could no longer hear the whale. We were informed that this was a good thing as it meant that the whale was probably about to surface, apparently the clicking stops once they being their ascent. A hush descended throughout the boat as we all waited. Shortly afterwards one of the crew members with binoculars, signaled ahead and we began to glide across the water. It wasn’t long before a fountain of water surged through the air and we all spotted movement on the waters surface. Our boat moved slowly towards the whale approaching from the back so as not to concern him. We were all told to move to the left side of the boat to get the perfect viewing spot. The whale was right before us, it’s full length visible through the now calm water. There is something very special about witnessing an animal or mammal of any kind going about it’s own business without disturbing it’s peace or habitat.

It’s just about impossible to take photo’s of Sperm Whales in the water

The whale took large breathes as we all gazed down privileged at such an opportunity.  

The Kaikoura sperm whales

After a few minutes our crew told us to have our cameras ready, our finger poised on the buttons as the whale before us took it’s last big breath, seemed to dive under the water but in the last instance its tail resurfaced and it breached the water in the spectacular fashion usually only seen on television documentaries. We all gasped in awe and I swore a round of applause almost broke out.

Our crew then decided to take us closer to shore to where I pod of dolphins was hanging out. There had been some sightings of humpback whales over the last few weeks and they were quite often surrounded by the resident pods of dolphins who were curious about any new potential playmate. Unfortunately we didn’t spot another whale but we did spend a large amount of time being thoroughly entertained by a large pod of dolphins who just seem to love hanging around boats.

Dusky Dolphins are everywhere….

They jumped and splashed their way through the water, some even performing acrobatic turns for all our entertainment. Our final trip of the morning took us to a large rock poking up out of the ocean known as Rileys Lookout. It was named after a whaler who used to stand on it’s top to look out for the Southern Right Whales that frequented the area. Today the rock is a haul out for the New Zealand Fur Seal who have a small nursery here. The babies could be spotted clambering around in small pools carved out of the rock side. Hurled up above them were the females enjoying some well earned rest. How they manage to climb so high out of the ocean and up the steep sides is a wonder all of its own.

A slumbering fur seal with it’s baby on the rocks at Kaikoura

Eventually our time was up and it was a case of once again settling back in our seat as the boat accelerated back over the wide stretch of ocean to South Bay Harbour at Kaikoura.

Whale watching in the marine mecca that is Kaikoura

Just off the coast of Kaikoura there is a trench, and not just any trench, one so deep that it is home to a colossal range of marine habitat. The Kaikoura trench is so close to shore that you can literally stand by the side of the road, if you get lucky, with binoculars and watch dolphins and whales a short distance away.

Kaikoura

This magical place is home to huge pods of Dusky Dolphins and several young male Sperm Whales who linger around these parts feasting on the large array of squid and small fish that survive in the depths of this deep trench.

The best way to see this vast array of sea life is to get out on the water and one of the top trip options is with Whale Watch Kaikoura. Run by locals they are a smart professional operation with excellent facilities. You feel like a VIP from the start of the tour through until the end.

Whale Watch is found just around the corner off from the main highway through Kaikoura. It’s nestled between the railway track and the stone covered beach. A long car park offers space for all vehicle types including bulky campervans. The main building is smartly presented with the booking/check in desk at the front followed by a small shop, information area and then toilets and a viewing room offering film coverage about the trip and marine life. Just outside are tables and chairs to wait around on and a short pathway leading down to the beach. It’s a lovely spot to linger at, watching fishing boats heading out and back into harbour and of course keeping your eyes peeled for a possible splash or fin in the water.

Kaikoura headland home to a vast array of marine and bird life

Once you are called onto the Whale Watch tour bus you are taken on a short journey around to South Bay to board your boat. The crew are waiting to greet you with a warm smile as you head on to one of the smartest boats I’ve ever been on.

Dan in the Captain’s Cabin, Whale Watch Kaikoura

We were informed in commentary that the boat had only been in service since December – it was smart, quiet and oh so smooth on seas that can at times be rough. The seats where comfy and the big windows opened to large outside areas with plenty of room for standing and watching.

View from the cabin on the Whale Watch boat, the decks are massive, great for spotting wildlife

We were all seated for the first part of the journey which was essentially a fast cruise across some bumpy water to the Kaikoura canyon itself. Once there our captain had a sound system, he dropped into the water to listen out for the sperm whales. Apparently, the whales make a distinctive clicking noise when they are at the bottom of the ocean hunting for fish so it’s easy to tell if one is around the vicinity -well easy to tell if you know what you are listening for! Our captain was pleased, on first listen he had heard a whale. Now it was just a matter of waiting and seeing. Whales, more whales, dolphins and seals coming soon….

Enjoy a weekend at a boutique hotel in central Dunedin

A new boutique hotel has opened in Dunedin, the first five star of its type in the city. It’s situated in the place of the former 'Wains Hotel' on Princes Street a short walk from The Octagon and the rest of the city centre. As you draw up outside the first impression is one of grandeur, the building is listed and dates back to Victorian times. You can’t help but feel that you are experiencing a little of Dunedin’s history here, a hotel that has survived since 1862 when Dunedin was a very different place to what it is today. The refurbishment here is very refined. The hotel is decorated with beautiful colourful carpets throughout. A grand staircase leads off from reception to the first level and then upwards to 6 floors of bedrooms and suites. The reception is friendly with a giant television screen behind it which usually had a sports game of some type broadcasting whilst I was there.

There is a concierge desk ready and willing to help and a couple of comfortable chairs to wait at. To the left-hand side is a small bar area leading through to the hotels in house restaurant known as The Press Club. It’s a nice set up with well-placed tables and chairs, attentive service, and a good bar menu. I had one of their 'Chocollini' cocktails which for a Friday night treat I thoroughly recommend. Made with baileys and Cointreau it also helped warm the coggles (as my Gran would say) on a cold damp Dunedin night.

Dunedin Station is just around the corner from the hotel

The room itself was on the modest side, slightly tight in space but the furnishings were again lovely, including a tartan blanket for keeping warm, which to be honest was needed as when I arrived the room was freezing and obviously hadn’t been occupied for a while. Facing the front of the street with sash windows it was sadly more a fridge than a warm and welcoming hotel room. The bathroom was again compact, but the shower was lovely and the bathrobes a fantastic touch. Again, though heating was scarce with no towel rail and the floor really could have done with some underfloor heating….

Take a guided tour around the cities street art

Breakfast was served each morning as part of my nightly rate. It was a lovely touch as fresh orange; filter coffee and a small plate of continental breakfast was served to your table. I had a small bowl of fruit salad and some sourdough toast, croissant, and Danish pastry. It was enough to start the day and I much preferred this touch to a breakfast buffet half the hotel had breathed over. They even offered a refill of juice, a generous touch as the restaurant space was tight and after a certain hour on a Sunday morning there were a few folks waiting.

Wine tasting in the home of Sav Blanc, Marlborough

The hardest thing when visiting Marlborough is choosing which wineries to frequent, there is so much choice. And variation too. There are your small privately owned vineyards offering boutique style tastings to the large consortiums willing to entice you with lots of choice, and then there are those that are obviously world famous and therefore appealing for their familiarity.

I had a Saturday afternoon to spare and wanted to sample some of the regions prestigious offerings. Savingion Blanc from this area of New Zealand is known and sold throughout the world such is its popularity. It would almost be rude not to partake in a tasting whilst visiting the area and passing by all the vines with the juicy bunches of grapes dripping from the vines ready to pick.

My first port of call was to possibly the most obvious of this area’s famous winery’s. Many claim that Cloudy Bay put New Zealand Marlborugh Sav Blanc on the map and it would be difficult to argue with this given the iconic status of the name. for information purposes Cloudy Bay does actually exist and is found not far down the road from its namesake. It is also worth a visit and the winery named after it is also pretty special. The cellar door is very elegant with the vines lined up right to the doorstep. There is a large courtyard area to sit and enjoy some seafood offerings from the raw bar – the oysters are top notch. The tasting involves several choices of wines and then returning after each sample to enjoy a commentary and pouring of the next. It’s an extremely relaxing way to sample a few wines. The oversized white sofas and cacoooned swing seats tied to trees in the garden also offer a relaxing space to sit back and enjoy life. The Cloudy Bay sign framed against the vineyard and the mountains in the background is the perfect spot to grab that selfie or two.

Cloudy Bay sign is the perfect spot to take that selfie

For my next stop I decided to go somewhere completely different, somewhere a lot less familiar. Nautilus is an independent winery just a short distance from Cloudy Bay. It is one of a selection known as the small wineries of New Zealand and is justifiably popular with those in the know. I had only previously sampled their sparkling wine so was keen to try a few others. The cellar door is much smaller than Cloudy Bay but still modern and appealing. There are sofas to lounge upon, a few stools and some outside tables for better weather days. The winery does small tasting plates to match the wines. I decided to do a wine tasting only, perching myself at the bar and enjoyed several of their wines including a couple of their sparklings, a really delicious local savvy and a few pinot noirs that took my breath away – this winery is class with a capital C.

The final winery I visited before heading back to my hotel was Fromm another independent offering. Their owners are German and that influence is present in their wine selections. I enjoyed their reds which were a lot different to the other wines I had previously tasted. Their Shiraz was very tasty with a white pepper flavor that lingered long after you had taken a sip. Fromm offered table service for their tastings which was a nice touch. I was allowed to sit back and enjoy the sunshine with the vineyard just beside me as I was guided through their offerings.

One of the many Marlborough vineyard

Suitably sustained the time was right to head back to my hotel. I needed to refresh myself for my dinner reservation at a Brazilian restaurant of all places. Blenheim has a lot of good places to eat but this one, Gramados gets excellent reviews. When I arrived on a busy Saturday evening the atmosphere was hectic. All the tables where full as was the small bar area. After a short wait I was taken through the restaurant to a table at the back by the window. The tables were also nicely spaced out so that even though it was busy you had your own space. The bar was in the middle of the restaurant and the staff were kept busy all night. This didn’t stop them though from offering excellent service, they were all knowledgeable and very passionate about the food. This was reflected in the owner who seemed to buzz about everywhere trying to ensure every person had a great time. I think the lights must have dimmed for a Happy Birthday chorus half a dozen times I was there. The food was equally good. I’m a bit of a novice with South American meals but the stew I chose was apparently a staple of the region and was delicious served with thick gravy. I had a starter of gooey deep fried cheese balls which were sublime. I was just sorry I couldn’t manage the crème caramel I was eyeing up for dessert. Never mind I will be back to try it again sometime soon. My stroll back to the hotel was short but welcome after such a large meal, it tried to rain which was annoying but then the sun is usually out most days in the ‘Boomtown’ Blenheim.

4 Barrels Wine Walk in Cromwell, Central Otago, continued, don't miss this!

The cellar door at Aurum sits in a petty English style garden with a Mediterranean outlook, there is an olive grove which leads down to the main road beyond. I grabbed one of the tables outside set within the garden and ordered a mixed tasting of all their wines, a selection of whites and reds. I had also worked up an appetite with all the walking and decided to try the blue cheese taster which offered a small selection of biscuits, crackers, nuts and fruit.

Dan enjoying a tasting at Aurum, overlooking the olive trees

Suitably sustained I was ready for the next part of my hike which involved retracing my steps slightly until I came upon a local campsite, I made my way across the grass field to a fence at the far end which took me along a narrow gulley with houses either side.

The stroll along the 4 Barrels walkway

The pathway bought me out near the local orchards and crossing the highway I made my way along past the blooming apricot and nectarine trees that lined the roadside. The next winery meant a small climb up from the roadside which was well worth if for the views that rewarded me at the top. Looking across I could see the whole of the Cromwell Basin and out across Lake Dunstan, upwards towards the Bannockburn Hills.

View down across the Cromwell area from Scott Base winery

Scott Base is the only wine that is supplied to its namesake in the New Zealand Antarctica. They also serve up some very tasty wines and beer. Owned by Allan Scott whose own range of wines from Marlborough are found throughout New Zealand, Moa Beer is the creation of his son. The cellar door in Cromwell is always popular and when I arrived on a lovely summer afternoon a lot of the outdoor tables where crowded with people enjoying the food and drink. I couldn’t bear to be outdone so grabbed the remaining table in the shade and ordered a glass of their sparkling white and a serving of bread and dips. I wanted to try the wild deer sticks but they had already run out. I could have spent the rest of the afternoon here enjoying the atmosphere, but I still had one last part of the walk to tackle and another winery. The Wooing Tree is one of my favourites and its home to the delicious ‘blondie’ wine which is neither a white nor a rose. It’s unique and I think perfect on a warm summer’s day. Or any day for that matter.

Enjoying a glass of ‘Blondie’ at The Wooing Tree, my favourite Cromwell winery

I ordered a glass and grabbed a seat on their covered veranda with a barrel as my table which I found appropriate given the name of the walk. My day was nearly complete and after ordering a bottle or two to take home I ventured out on the final part of my leg, walking through The Wooing Tree vineyard and back into Cromwell town.

Vineyards are everywhere in this town

My room for the night awaited my tired legs, but the ‘4 Wine Barrels Walk’ was worth the effort I just mustn’t forget to pick up my wine from the cellar doors…..

Follow the signs for an excellent and fun packed walk

Leisurely cycle trails in Central Otago

Driving over the old bridge in Clyde I felt as though I had stepped back in time to the Wild West. The buildings in this old town still remain standing from the heydays of the gold rush, a testament to the late 1900’s and a time of prosperity in this area.

Clyde remains an historic gold rush town

Positioned within the beautiful landscape of Central Otago, Clyde is one of the areas many draw cards. Its high street is virtually a living museum of a time past, with historic plaques a plenty providing the visitor with information as to who built and lived in each of the properties.

One of the many historic cottages in Clydes main street

It’s also home to a selection of very nice accommodation and dining options which to be honest do seem to befit such a prosperous little town.

One of the many accommodaton options in Clyde

Oliver’s is the largest on the block spanning a small hotel, award winning restaurant, bar, and café. I popped in for lunch at the café and couldn’t help but look around such a lovely place. Their homemade caramel slices are quite a treat too baked at their onsite bakery.

Inside Oliver’s Cafe in Clyde

Across the road is the old Bank of New Zealand now another bustling café and bistro with plenty of outdoor seating. You can imagine in times past gold panners turning up at the door here hoping to strike it rich.

The old Bank of New Zealand building in Clyde, now a bustling cafe and bistro

There is also the Lord Clyde Hotel which offers comfortable accommodation to enjoy close to town. Adjacent to the Lord Clyde is a bike hire shop that sells all the bike gear you need as getting around on two wheels is one of this area's main draws. The Otago Rail Trail starts or ends in Clyde but there are many other trails in this area of different capabilities that are well worth taking the time to enjoy. My own bike ride took me across the old Clyde Bridge and by the banks of the River Clyde.

The historic bridge at Clyde

It was an easy track to follow, mainly flat with great views following the riverbanks.

View from the cycle track down the river

A lot of the track was through the forest that grew alongside the river although there were relics of old gold times past and a few great spots to stop for a picnic or morning tea. It was a popular ride with several others enjoying the journey which ends at the Alexandra Bridge. As you pass the cricket club look out for the match that is being played, someone has a sense of humour!

A cricket match in Central Otago

Crossing over the bridge brings you to Alexandra itself a good place to stop off for a well earnt drink and bite to eat.

A section of he famous Otago Rail Trail

You could return the same way back to Clyde but there is also the option to do as I did and join the last section of the Otago Rail Trail which takes you past the old station and along a long wide track surrounded by vineyards and farms. There are numerous places to stop and stay on route and even a winery offering tastings should you wish to wet your palate.

Dan taking a break at a coffee house in Alexandria

I decided to continue back to Clyde and call in at the Merchant of Clyde which is one of the cafes on the main street. It has an outdoor area and of course those delicious caramel slices….

A posh hotel break, who doesn't want that?

If you’re going to truly spoil yourself then you can’t go far wrong than a stay at the new luxurious Park Hyatt in Auckland. Perfectly positioned by the waterfront with the city centre attractions just a short walk away it’s the place to see and be seen.

Park Hyatt Auckland, the lap of luxury

First and fore most this is a big hotel. The lobby itself is huge with long open corridors to rooms looking down over the reception area. It has original Maori artwork on display and several bars and restaurants which I will come to later.

First up though are the rooms – which are more mini suite than bedroom. An entrance lobby leads through to the bedroom and lounge area. Outside there is a huge, enclosed balcony complete with marble table and chairs to relax after a long day and enjoy the fresh Auckland sea breeze. The powder room, (toilet to you and me), the dressing room (walk in wardrobe) and the bathroom are all tastefully done. The bathroom being complete with double sink units, a lovely walk-in shower and a large stand along bath complete with blind to either leave up or down. I’m not too sure about the bath with the view to be honest, I feel rather conspicuous soaking in a bath easily visible to passing folk below.

Auckland Harbour Bridge

A Nespresso machine offers the much-needed morning coffee, which is a nice touch to enjoy when you are sat outside on your private balcony listening to the buzzing city below come to life. There is also a well-priced mini bar if you don’t feel like heading downstairs. I would however recommend that you do head downstairs though as the Captains Bar and The Living Room are excellent places to relax and sample a few beverages. The Living Room is open all day from breakfast through to dinner. It’s popular for afternoon tea, and I can totally recommend their lunches which are out of this world. The Prawn Caesar salad with a glass of Akarua Brut was just the treat. Captains Bar is a more sophisticated moody venture designed for later in the evening. It offers a tapas style bar menu and has a selection of cocktail offerings. There is also an excellent wine by the glass list showcasing New Zealand. Unlike so many Auckland establishments they are fair and generous with their pouring measures too, you get a proper glass of wine not a half measure!

No half measures of wine at these bars

For light snacks during the day there is The Pantry with tables overlooking the Wynyard Quarter, it’s a laid-back comfortable spot to linger over cake and coffee or a more substantial meal. I had a cheese scone for breakfast one morning which was delicious.

The hotels flagship restaurant is the place to try though. I had breakfast and dinner there on a wet and windy Auckland day and wasn’t disappointed. The tables look out over the Viaduct Harbour with its millionaire yachts, the chatter from the bars across the water lingers in the air and the Sky Tower glows bright lit up in the darkness peeking out over the cities high-rises. The tables are all nicely separated so you don’t have that awful impression that you are sat on top of one another. The food is exquisite, small plates to start with that are made to share with larger plates to follow. We choose two small and two large and every one of them was beautifully presented, and I must say tasted even better. Nothing was rushed so you didn’t feel you had to eat fast to ensure you had a hot plate of food. We stayed until the staff advised us that they were closing and would we like to move down the hall to the Captains Bar, we happily obliged having lingered for several hours in such a lovely place. The breakfast was equally good, friendly service and the floor to ceiling windows ensured you looked out over perfect views of the waterfront and city.

Viaduct Harbour, Auckland, the cities playground

Now I’ve come to the end of my story about a luxurious weekend in Auckland I realized I’ve forgotten to mention one of the best parts, the Hydro Centre. The infinity swimming pool is a delight, a top spot to enjoy a swim whilst watching folk pass by on the street in front. The Viaduct Bridge opens every now and then to allow the ships through from the harbour. It has some lovely deck chairs to laze about on. But inside behind an unassuming door that I thought was a toilet I found the best part of the hotel (well to me anyhow). A fantastic changing area complete with private showers and lockers that led on to a hydra centre with bench hot pools and fantastic lay down benches for the ultimate water massage. There was even a neck massager. The steam room and sauna were incredible too. What a place to enjoy a weekend, expensive but oh so worth it for revitalizing the soul.

A roadtrip for a burger? But this isn't any old burger, this is a Ferg

The Fergburger is legendary, at least in New Zealand. And especially in Queenstown where the endless queues out the door which often snake down the road are about as famous at its burgers.

There is usually an endless queue outside Fergburger

It’s part of the many attractions of Queenstown and one of the most popular to do things in the town. Which is odd because at the end of the day it’s just a burger joint, and the world has plenty of those, right?

So is Fergburger, or the Ferg as it likes to be known, actually worth it? Well yes, to be honest it is. The burgers are quite frankly delicious. I’m not sure if it’s the fresh bread buns they use or the salads and sauces but these are some of the best burgers to be had anywhere, period.

If you are new to the scene try The Fergburger, the standard cheeseburger where you can choose the cheese you want to include. Want to try something a bit different then there is Little Lamby, as you can guess hopefully by the name this is a  lamb burger. Or maybe the Codfather appeals made with South Island blue cod, it’s a recommended tasty treat.

The orignal Fergburger, with blue cheese, yum

 The sides are pretty good too although to be honest with the size of the burgers you probably don’t need them, but hey needs must and if you are going to queue for a Fergburger you might as well go all out.  

The best time to visit is probably early morning, and having a Fergburger for breakfast is definitely not frowned upon. The queues tend to be quieter so it’s more sensible and with such a busy day of Queenstown activities planned starting with a Ferg is an excellent plan. You are certainly going to burn at least some of that burger off…..

Fergburger is a as quintessentially Queenstown as the TSS Earnslaw steamship

 I also love Fergbaker that is next door. It serves up great coffees and some excellent treats to take to refuel during the day. The Ferg Boston cream donut is just so delicious it’s no wonder they have heaps of them ready to serve – try one you won’t be disappointed. I can hear them calling me the moment I enter Queenstown, it’s so dangerous be warned, a bit like a Patagonia ice-cream….

There is now also a Fergbar next door to the burger joint. So basically you can have a burger, a pint and then a donut all within a few steps of one another…..It’s a Queenstown must do experience, give it a go.

The Remarkables mountain range covered in snow

Waterfront relaxation at Akaroa, Banks Peninsula

I woke early and sneaked a peak out between the curtains. The sun was just beginning to rise creating a sparkle on the water down in front of me. Just below the window seabirds, rare black gulled seagulls, herons, oyster catchers and ducks where beginning to prepare themselves for another day of moving, feeding and bathing with the tide.

Room with a view at Akaroa Waterfront Motel

I was staying at Akaroa Beach Front Motel, and the beach front aspect is certainly no exaggeration. Our room on the first floor sat just a couple of metres from the pebble strewn beach and when the tide was high the water almost lapped a short distance beneath us.

Enjoying an Akaroa Harbour sunset

We looked out across Akaroa Harbour watching the colours of the sloping hill sides alternate as the sun and clouds formed patterns across them. The sound of the sea lapping endlessly on the beach was the only thing that broke the tranquility, oh, that and the little fantail that liked to flutter around outside our balcony every now and then making its familiar squeaking noise. They haven’t been given their sweet name Piwakawaka by Maroi for no reason, it rhymes with their distinctive yet attractive calling tune. The room was comfortable and modern, set out almost like an apartment. There was a good kitchen area, a table and chairs and even a comfy sofa for relaxing on.

The room which was more like an apartment

The balcony offered the best of views and had two high stools to perch on and sip coffee or wine (depending on the time of day) whilst enjoying those views. It was covered over as well which gave great protection against any incrimental weather.

Watching the sun set over the water

The motel complex is split into two parts, with parking at both. There is a small stream with a pedstrian bridge to stroll over linking both the areas. Bikes and kayaks are available to hire if you so wish and there is an information centre in the office in which to book any local trips. 

I spent two nights at the motel which although on the waterfront is only a very short walk to all of Akaroas entertainments. The supermaket is around the corner as are several restaruants and cafes. There is even a cinema to enjoy if you tire of the towns charms. All that dolphin spotting and paddle boarding can get tiring. And please don’t miss the butchers come delicatessens, it’s one of the best in New Zealand. If nothing else you must try the Akaroa smoked salmon.

All in all it's a top spot to spend a few nights, i will be back.

Splendid scenery, gentle exercise and lunch with a piece of history, what more could you want

There is something magically wonderful about strolling along the waterfront of Lake Wakatipu in Autumn. The leaves on the trees lining the pathway are turning a crisp golden brown, burnt orange and rustic red. They crinkle under foot as you step on them. The lake water gently laps the shore line and The Remarkables mountain range towers high above with its jagged peaks seeming to reach for the sky. Occasionally a helicopter will buzz past alongside looking like a small speck besides their towering majesty.

Queenstown Gardens starting point for the lakeside walk up to Frankton

The walk from Queenstown to Frankton is justifiably popular, starting at the Queenstown Gardens and meandering the lake side all the way to Frankton. Along the route you pass various hotels, apartments and private homes that line the lake side. Numerous picnic spots allow you to enjoy the serenity of the location. The pathway is a shared bicycle track and every now and then you are serenaded by the local bellbirds and occasional fan tail. The marina reached just before Frankton is the ideal spot to arrive at before turning back around to retrace your steps. As well as being the spot to hire a jet ski or launch a boat or kayak it’s also home to The Boatshed, probably the best reason, in my humble opinion, to enjoy the walk.

Dan in the historic Boatshed cafe, enjoying a rather large burger with a Wooing Tree Blondie wine

As the name suggests this is a former boatshed restored beautifully into a fantastic café/restaurant. It’s walls are scattered with information signs and photographs of the areas history and memories of times passed. It’s almost a mini museum with replicas of the old steamships used on the lake, as much as a café. The tables outside are perfect on a sunny afternoon. Grab a spot and look out over the lake and mountain ranges. There are also several tables inside for those days when you just need to be snug and warm. The menu is varied with several interesting breakfast and lunch offerings.

Lunch at The Boatshed, the Stewart Island smoked salmon with pasta was rather nice

I decided to have the Stewart Island smoked salmon with pappardelle pasta, it was delicious with lots of cream and parmesan, plenty of the best smoked salmon on the planet and even some capers and caviar. Dan opted for the burger served with a heap of roasted potatoes, it was tough going to eat it all but we somehow struggle through it. Just as well we had the long walk back to Queenstown to now enjoy….

View across Lake Wakatipu to the mountain ranges