Cruising through epic scenery on an old steamship, TSS Earnslaw of Queenstown

The sun was beginning to fade against the mountain sides as we made our way smoothly across the lake. TSS Earnslaw is the last of its kind, the only remaining commercial passenger-carrying coal fired steamship left in the Southern Hemisphere.

The windswept look on board the front deck of the TSS Earnslaw

Built in Dunedin way back at the start of the last century it was rescued by Real Journeys in 1969 to be used for tours across Lake Wakatipu. It now cruises across the lake several times a day journeying between its dock in Queenstown and Walter Peak Farm.

Walter Peak Farm, one of the original sheep farms in the area

Walter Peak Farm was one of the original sheep farms in this area, all named after the huge mountainsides that tower above them. The sheep farm part still exists to this day only further up the valley now. The area down by the lake where the Earnslaw drops off many a tourist is now a resort offering farm shows, displays, a great café with afternoon teas, lunches, and BBQ dinners.

The cabin and funnel of the TSS Earnslaw an original coal steamship

I had opted to join the 90-minute cruise across from Queenstown. This gave me the opportunity to take in the epic scenery of this incredible location from the water whilst appreciating the serenity of the place. The boat itself is a living museum and it is worth taking time to head inside and look around the small museum detailing its history largely through old photographs. You can also visit the engine rooms in the middle of the ship, watching the stokers feed the coal fires.

The boat is a living museum you are free to explore

I spent much of my journey up on the front deck taking in those scenic views whilst listening to the illuminating commentary. The boat is surprisingly large inside, with a main upper deck complete with bench seating and then a lower deck salon which I imagine back in the day would be where the more prosperous clientele would linger, away from the hot engines. I had no time for sitting back and relaxing however, as I wandered around all the boat and enjoyed being on the upper decks as the captain blew the mighty horn to warn Queenstown we were fast approaching.

Dan gazing out over the waters of Lake Wakatipu to the many peaks towering high above

Swimming with the fur seals in Kaikoura

I took a deep breath and steadily prepared myself for the shock of the cold water as I splashed down from the small boat into the sea below. Thankfully I was relieved as it wasn’t as bad as I had expected, although being dressed in a super thick wetsuit complete with booties and head piece probably also helped protect me a fair bit.

I was spending a glorious sunny Saturday morning in Kaikoura swimming with the local fur seals. To those not in the know, or perhaps don’t often read my blog, Kaikoura is a small town on the north eastern side of New Zealand’s South Island. It is also home to some of the best marine life experiences to be found in the country and as you might expect is one of my absolute favourite places to spend a weekend. I literally grin from ear to ear when I am here.

Looking out to sea at Kaikoura, a small town positioned in a stunning setting

Seal Swim is a local family run company which takes adventurers out on a cruise around the rock strewn areas of the Kaikoura headland to launch themselves into the water to swim with the vast seal population that live here. And what an experience it is. From start to finish I was so impressed. Vanessa had called me the day before to ask if it would be possible for me to join an earlier tour. I was originally booked for lunchtime but the weather and sea conditions were looking better for earlier that day and she recommended the change. And what a good call that was. When we first arrived Vanessa was so worried about a change of wind direction which would leave the sea rougher than expected and possibly ruin the experience. She offered the option to cancel or change to another day. There were only six of us , three couples and everyone of us agreed to risk it. We were so fortunate that we did……

We used the small changing rooms tucked just off the back of Kaikoura’s main through fare to change into our outfits. Fitted wet suits and jackets that would keep us warm for up to an hour in the water.

Seals perched all over the rocks around the Kaikoura headland, a perfect spot for a ‘seal swim’

And then down the street we all marched feeling slightly ridculous to our bright yellow seal swim bus for the short drive around to South Bay where our boat and guide awaited us. As we approached the marina I spotted kayakers heading out on a tour. I was instantly reassured, surely if those guys are going out it couldn’t be expected to get that rough. We climbed out off our bus to head a short distance down the jetty to climb aboard the similarly bright yellow boat. The seal swim boat is a posh version of a zodiac with bench seats to pop yourselves down on and a small amount of space for all your gear. We were all super eager to get out in the water so we soon headed out from the harbour after a safety briefing from our guide. The views across the peninsula where spectacular from the water and once we rounded a rocky part of the open sea we were surrounded by small sheltered pools, all populated by seals of varying sizes and ages perched on the rocks and playing around in the water. It was high tide so conditions couldn’t have been better. It meant usually inaccessible areas where available and we swam and squeezed our way through small shallow points to reach a perfect little area. As I peered through my face mask down beneath me i encountered a giant kelp forest and so many fish. Deeper than the other parts it was quite compact with rocky outcrops all around and the seals seemed noticibly curious. Alistair our guide informed us that the seals in these parts visit to relax and chill, they feed on the ample amounts of squid available further out to sea so are here to sleep and regain energy. The head into the water to cool down from the heat of the days. As they don’t fish here so they are more playful and with the youngsters everything is a curiousity.

The raised land at Kaikoura encouages small rock pools where fur seals love to hang out.

There were this years babies, mothers and juvenial young males all wondering what these strange beings were entering their world. They soon sussed us out. No threat to them whatsoever given our swimming skills were dismal at best compared to their talents. They proceeded to prove this time again, swimming around us, then gradually coming closer until we were almost nose to nose before soaring off in a flash to either fly under us, around us or in some cases actually jumping over us. I lost count of the times that floating on the surface I had two sets of big black eyes swim up to within inches of my face. They are far more daring than what you may expect, but after all you are in their world and abiding to their rules….

The diverse marine life at Kaikoura is a highlight for the town

Head along to the 1950's retro diner in Kaikoura

A little slice of America recently hit Kaikoura of all places! And it truly is a unique and authentic American diner experience - the sort that you would seek out in the States itself although such original style diners are perhaps less apparent than they used to be.

I used to live in New York and one of my favourite memories is a diner just near to the New Jersey turn pike. It was one of those places that glowed in the dark, such were it’s neon lights. The metal trailer style exterior was painted a light royal blue. It was in the worst place possible, a car park just a short drive from the Holland Tunnel and I swear nobody walked there but me who did so as I didn’t own a car at the time so simply had no choice. But it was worth the walk and breathing in the exotic exhaust fumes, as it was the real deal and I loved it.

Bernie’s is based on a traditional 1950’s American Diner

Bernie’s in Kaikoura is as close to that memory as you can possibly get whilst not being in the USA itself. The outside looks like a real life diner complete with the lobby entrance and ‘please wait to be seated’ sign. There are even comfy booth seats and waitresses wearing those classic ‘only in a diner’ uniforms. The only thing missing is that they aren’t constantly wandering around the place with a stained brown coffee jug in their hands scouring for those desperate for a stewed coffee top up. Bernie’s is definitely not that type of place. Neither is it full of grease either, thankfully. But be warned that doesn’t really make it healthy, Please look away now if you’re not a fan of calories.

The menu is the diner classic, with a a protective covering to prevent damage from spillages. If I remember rightly coffee slops were a constant in the diners I inhabited in the USA. The space is retro 1950’s America with number plates of various states lining the walls together with photos of the American Icons of that era. There is a juke box playing classic American rock tunes, there is even a museum and souvenir shop. This place is seriously cool.

I studied the menu and decided to forgo the coffee for the milkshakes. A smoothie caught my eye  - cherry and cocoa flavor sounded intriguing and I wasn’t expecting it to be healthy. It was so good I could have drunk double. Dan opted for the classic American milkshake, vanilla flavor of course. It came in the traditional straight out of the deep freeze silver jug it had been blended in – cold and refreshing and went down a treat. I grabbed a mouthful for reviewing purposes that’s all….

The exterior of Bernie’s

The breakfast menu is American but there are one or two kiwi twists, such as tofu burgers which I don’t think I’ve ever really seen on a USA diner menu, but forgive me if I’m wrong. There are eggs Bernie and of course grilled cheese sandwiches which I was very tempted by. There is also the breakfast burger and selections from pancakes, French toast and waffles. I decided to go for an omelette with cheese and tomato. The last time I had ordered an omelette was actually a year earlier in Juniors diner just off Times Square, I had stupidly asked the waiter what type of cheese I could choose to which I got the classic New York answer: white, yellow or orange. Dan laughed loudly and I struggled to keep a straight face. As it turned out white cheese,s, or Swiss as it’s better known, can be very nice in an omelette, and despite Bernie’s being a bit more discerning and offering cheddar as the cheese I can honestly say the omlette was just as good. The only thing missing were the home fries! Homemade pies are fresh each day as are the doughnuts. I spied the cherry pie, I will be back to try it soon, that and a big fat unhealthy coffee milkshake… yum I’m drooling. Better get back on the treadmill now….

The counter at Bernies, as this is New Zealand no tips are required….

Beach campsite with stars galore at Okains Bay, Banks Peninsula

Okains Bay is my ultimate favourite camping spot for a weekend away.

It’s not too far a drive from Christchurch but it takes you to another world.

The drive is actually pretty special too. Weaving along and up across the volcanic landscape of Banks Peninsula the road twists and turns like you wouldn’t believe and offers spell blinding views of the valleys and harbours beyond and beneath. If you have a motor bike this is an awesome place to ride it.

I left the road to Akaroa behind at Hilltop (a fabulous stopping point on any journey around these parts, I will discuss in another blog later) and ventured out onto what is signposted as a tourist drive. It’s actually the road that takes you across to all the northern harbours of the peninsula. Turn off’s indicate roads dropping down steeply to settlments such as Pigeon Bay and Port Levy. Okains Bay is slightly further along the same road, about half way. I turned off down a narrow road for the drive to the bay below. It’s all bush laden beauty and I often to slow for tight turns and birds hopping out across the road.

Before I reached the bay itself I came to the small settlement of Okains Bay which as well as a scattering of houses and a school had it’s own local shop and museum. The museum focuses on the history of this area and is supposed to be well worth a visit – although I confess I haven’t yet squeezed this in yet on any of my many trips.

What I have done though is found myself a good spot, on a regular basis, somewhere on the sandy embankment a short walk from the beach. 

Camping at Okains Bay is a fun weekend

Okains Bay is a top campsite, well looked after by Christchurch Council. It’s a large spot so there are plenty of camping options to choose from. I often prefer to camp at the front between the trees, when it’s not so busy this allows some privacy from other campers and means there is no one between me and the beach beyond. A small pathway takes you from the campsite though grasslands and sand dunes to the sea. Grassy spots can be chosen further back, which allow for more sun and warmth in the cooler months. They also tend to be flatter, for those who have issues with slopes! Families tend to camp beside the lagoon at the far end of the campsite which means that kids can frolic to their hearts content in more shallow sheltered waters. It’s also a good spot to launch a kayak or paddle board from.

The campsite has a couple of kitchens, toilet and shower blocks, all handy for washing away that salt water and sand after a day of fun.

Stepping out from the tent to the beach takes a few short strides. The beach at Okains Bay on a summers day is idyllic. The sand welcoming and the sea usually pretty calm – there are usually folk swimming, kayaking and fishing here. You can easily while away a lazy day and forget your cares, the only sounds quite often being the squawk of the Oyster Catchers that patrol stretches of the beach and the baa of the sheep on the steep grassy slopes and hillsides above. There is nothing I love more than rising early, stretching my limbs and heading out onto the beach before everyone else rises.

There is always heaps of choice, whether you want a sheltered spot under the trees or a sunny area by the bush

One thing i never miss when camping at Okains Bay is the night sky. If fortunate enough to camp when the skies are clear heading out onto the beach when it is dark is a must. On several ocassions I have been rewarded with one of the best night skies I have ever witnessed. As you turn around you feel as though the stars are literally falling down on top of you, they appear to twinkle all the way into the sea – it is quite something.

Nothing beats a weekend camping

A wine tasting with a bit of exercise thrown in at Cromwell

So, what do you fancy this weekend after a long week at work? A walk to stretch those weary legs, to get a bit of fresh air and feel generally more positive by enjoying the great outdoors. Or do you fancy kicking back with a glass of wine, maybe a cheese platter and some great conversation? Maybe both appeal in equal measure. They certainly do to me especially after a tiring week staring at a computer screen. Guess what? I think I may have discovered the perfect place…..

Up early on a Saturday morning I was keen for a road trip that ended with a day trip with a difference. I made the drive across the Southern Mountain range of New Zealand, through pretty Geraldine, stopping for a breakfast pie at Fairlie Bakehouse followed a little later by a coffee break at stunning Tekapo where the lake glistened in the morning sunshine. The mountain ranges of Mount Cook National Park kindly posed splendidly for me in the clear skies, not a cloud about on this morning. If it had been my first sighting of such a place I would have stopped and stared in amazement. I though still had a way to go and no time sadly on this occasion to so. Instead I threaded my way across the Lindis Pass, the Otago scenery opening up in front of me in all its rugged splendour. My destination for this weekend was Cromwell, one of my all-time favourite weekend spots. I’m not sure why but Cromwell is my ultimate go to spot at the moment. It’s within easy driving distance of home, about 5 hours with decent stops. l love the drive through such inspiring and contrasting scenery and there are a few places I enjoy stopping off at on route. Well, they say the joy of travel is as much about the journey…

Hitting the walking trail

My reason for heading to Cromwell on this particular weekend though was to experience their ‘4 Wine Barrels Walk’ an activity that I had been eyeing up for a while but had no gotten around too. The walk sounds exactly what it is – an 8km walk between four of the wineries in the Cromwell area that are open to the public.

I began by walking to the petite cellar door at Mischa’s situated next to a restaurant which apparently comes highly recommended and a fruit store (the fruit in these parts is second to none).

Mischa’s has a small cellar door with a smattering of high tables and stools to perch on. AS all the wineries I visited it had a friendly and helpful host. I popped myself on a bar stool and selected the five wines that appealed most to my taste buds. Mischa’s is unique in that it allows you the chance to choose your wine from quite a long list of tasting opportunities. It’s good for those who are perhaps more selective than me when it comes to their wine likes and dislikes. Some prefer their whites, some rock up to sample the area’s famous Pinot Noir red. My preference was to try a mix of the range. Mischa’s is owned by a couple who set it up after returning to New Zealand after years living the city life in Singapore. They had their own vision and business acumen and planted vines up on a high ridge around the rim of Lake Dunstan. I was informed that the land is affectionately known as the ski slope which gives a good idea of how difficult it is to cultivate. All their grapes are picked by hand, and large wall sized pictures in the cellar door paint a picture of the wine growing area. Personally, I love their wines, especially their whites. The wine tasting here does though begin with their reds and I tried a couple of pinot noirs that were separated by age and cellaring. It was quite a special treat to try both side by side and see for myself the difference years of cellaring can make to such a wine. Happily, you can purchase bottles which they will hold onto for you to pick up later. Who wants to carry around bottles of wine at the start of such a walk? Leaving Misha’s, I was pointed in the direction of the lake front. Be careful as there is a busy highway to cross before you reach this part.

The pathway following the lake front at Cromwell

The walkway is tranquil enough although there is plenty to see water activity wise with paragliders and jet skiers. Several houses back onto the pathway their gardens stretching down to the lakeside beyond. As Cromwell is set down in a valley you are surrounded by mountain ranges, many of them with vines growing up their lower ridges. It’s quite a setting for a small township. Just a short walk from the local boat club is a gate which leads up to the next winery on route. Seemingly

set within a local housing area you can be forgiven for getting confused but follow the clear directions on your map and you will come to the small family owned winery, Aurum. Specialising in organic wines this place is run by the husband and wife team owners who greet you at the cellar door. Their daughter in law, hails from France and is the chief winemaker. One of the more expensive Pinot Noir’s is named after their granddaughter.

Wine tasting at Aurum

Blog continues shortly….

Nothing beats a weekend at the seaside. No matter what the weather or the season the beach always seems to revive the senses and refresh the soul.

 Hopefully you feel like I do and get the opportunity to go to the beach on a regular basis. I used to live around the corner from the beach up in Auckland, I know I hear ya, so lucky, I totally get it. Whenever I needed to fathom something out or clear my head, get my thoughts in order, I used to head down there and stroll across the sands littered with broken oyster shells and small pebbles. There was always a distraction, whether it was a wave rippling on the shore or a sea bird burrowing into the sand. It has remained with me and now on the South Island I try to get to the beach as much as I can – not so easy these days when it’s a good 50 minute car journey away, but I appreciate I am luckier than some in that it is at least drivable. 

Tide is out at Scarborough Beach, Sumner

Scarborough Beach at Sumner is often my top choice. Largely as it’s the closest sandy strip of beach to my home. If the tide is out you have a huge stretch of firm sand to stroll across. If it’s in then there is a large promenade to enjoy. Early morning is my favourite time, but there’s nothing like an evening stroll with a paper folded plate full of fish and chips. The local fish and chip take away in Sumner is pretty good, they usually have a selection of fish such as Gunard, Blue Cod or Hoki, all easily available on the South Island and caught probably just a short distance away. Who doesn’t love fish and chips at the seaside? Such a New Zealand thing to do. 

Exploring the rock caves at low tide at Sumner

If it’s morning I’ll head back into Sumner town to Coffee Culture to grab a flat white and cheese roll – again two very Kiwi things, especially the cheese roll, the South Island sushi – give it ago if you love cheese. Top tip, the ones from Coffee Culture are some of the best (trust me I’ve sampled a few for comparison purposes). At Sumner Coffee Culture there are outside street tables always a good bet to enjoy on a warm day.

You can’t beat a pavement cafe by the seaside

Saturday morning is a good time to head over to Sumner as this gives the perfect opportunity to visit Lyttleton Farmers Market on the way back. The road between the Sumner and Lyttleton has just reopened after being badly damaged by the 2011 earthquake. It’s a construction nightmare cut literally out from the cliff side overhanging the Lyttleton Harbour. If you get the opportunity it’s well worth a drive in its own right.

Hang gliders landing on the beach at Sumner

More to come about Lyttleton shortly…..

Life's a beach, especially on a summers weekend

Can anything beat a weekend in summer than heading to a long stretch of sun drenched beach? Personally I think not. Heading there with a picnic mat and a good book is most definitely one of the more enticing prospects of life after work.

Any excuse for another beach shot….

My favourite local beach is just north of Christchurch. As you head up State Highway One and out of the city there are several signs indicating beach turnoffs to the right hand side of you. I usually by pass a few to continue on to Waikuku. I’m not sure why but it is a personal favourite. Maybe it’s the relaxed vibe. The little effort in parking. the surf club with life guards on duty during the summer (swim between the flags folks) the chilled atmosphere or just the clean toilets (hey believe me I have been to many a beach town where the toilets have been a shocking experience to say the least). Waikuku offers a huge beach, and I seriously mean huge, by New Zealand standards it’s epic in scale. Once you climb up over the sand dunes (which can be slid down if you have a boogie board) and passed the surf club it’s a matter of deciding left or right because believe me there is a lot of beach to choose. Usually there are kids paddling, surfers or even kite surfers hitting the waves, fishermen trying their best to hook a line, dog walkers, even folk like myself looking to sunbathe and chill for a few hours.

Even the grey sky can’t dull a day spent up at Waikuku Beach

Before I head to the beach to pick my secluded spot I drive up to Amberley, a small supply town just a few miles north. Amberley has it’s own beach which is worth a trip too, although it is all pebble and branch strewn so less appealing for a sunbathe. With it’s forest pathways and wetlands it’s well worth a visit though and is much quieter than Waikuku. Amberley township has several good spots for a coffee or refueling. My own personal favourite is ‘Paris” a French style bakery/café just a pull off the main road. There is a usually a queue out the door but it’s worth the wait as people try to decide what to select from the tempting counter selection in front of them. I usually choose a quiche of some sort, the pastry is lovely and light. There are pies, bread and sandwiches and the croissants are mouth watering. The hardest part is choosing a cake, a choice between a kiwi type or more French patisserie. I often choose a tart, again that pastry makes me melt, there are honey and almond and chocolate and caramel and a seasonal fruit range which although messy look so divine, they are worth the sticky fingers.

My friend the Fantail at the wetlands, Amberley Beach

Summer loving the festival life

Spend a summer weekend at a festival near you…….

Always a good option if you fancy a break from reality and to immerse yourself in something that really interests you.

 When I say festival I could literally mean any type. I know that music tends to be the first thing that springs to mind whenever anyone tells you they are going to a festival. Images of Glastonbury,  numerous stages, loud music and crowds of folk swaying too and forth in some kind of mass haze. And hey whose knocking that, maybe that’s your idea of a good festival, camping and sharing port-a-loo toilets with a thousand others. I just happen to prefer the smaller more intimate types. And it doesn’t have to be music themed either – although I confess some music in the background is often a great idea. Today there are so many types of festival you can attend, just hit the google pages or pop to your local library to find one happening near you. My own passion tends to revolve around food. Add wine to it and you can virtually guarantee I will be there. I’m lucky, I live in a country that loves a good wine and food festival and usually you can’t get through a summer without attending at least one or two. They range in size, from the Wine Festivals held in Auckland and Wellington, the Craft Beer one held in Christchurch to local wine regions holding their own. Heck there is even a festival to celebrate chocolate over her (it’s true it’s been held in Auckland at least of couple of times I swear).

Dan and myself enjoying a day at the Auckland Taste Festival

My own personal favourite is the South Island Wine Festival held in Christchurch at Hagley Park the first Saturday in December. It’s the start of summer, everyone is looking forward to the holiday season and the atmosphere rocks. Over 50 of the best South Island wineries are in attendance offering discounted glasses or tastings. If that doesn’t tempt you enough there is a full range of the best Food Trucks and restaurants in Christchurch serving tempting snacks. My personal faves are The Vagabond Chefs for loaded fries and don’t forget to try som Indian street food – their cauliflower blew me away.

So if you want to liven things up a bit or just try something different head out to a festival happening near you,  rain or shine, hot or cold, it’ll be sure to brighten up any dull weekend.

Enjoying another wine festival……

Ever wanted to spend a night with the little penguins?

Ever wanted to sleep with the penguins? Well not sleep exactly, that may be an exaggeration on my part given the amount of noise they make…. You might not actually get much sleep but there is something pretty cool about waking up during the night to the chatter of a few noisy housemates. 

Little Blue Penguins

There is a magical place in The Catlin's that offers you this incredible experience. It also offers you picture perfect views of an isolated sandy beach, dolphins frolicking in the surf and a short stroll from where you are staying to the actual beach – I say stroll it’s actually more a few paces.

 Porpoise Bay is situated at the bottom end of The Catlin's, it’s formed by the long crescent of beach that is separated from Curio Bay by a grassy peninsula, which is now a campsite. 

The beach at Porpoise Bay

At the bottom end of New Zealand, it’s usually quiet around these parts, except for a few weeks in late December, January, you will largely have the place to yourself with just a few locals and smattering of tourists about. The purpose-built Bach (New Zealand's holiday homes) I stayed at was true luxury, complete with a bed you could dreamily sink into and never get up from, walk in shower bathroom, and a comfortable sofa for taking in those views or curling up with a good book if the weather turns (which it’s prone to doing in these parts). There is also a full kitchen and dining table available to knock up some stellar meals – given there isn’t much in the way of restaurants nearby it’s best to be ready to self-cater.

The accommodation, a bed you literally do sink into with a view to match

And then there is the covered terrace area, which offers wonderful views across the bay, perfect for watching the small hectors dolphins play. Hectors are the world’s smallest, and a pod frequents this bay and spends many hours surfing the waves just short distances from the surfers braving the waters. It's quite a sight to sit out with your morning coffee and witness these rare mammals playing a short distance from you – binoculars are provided and are handy, but they are easily visible to the naked eye. I mentioned coffee – because you will need it.

Some days coffee is an essential….

Sleep is something of a miracle because as the sun sets and darkness descends your fellow guests begin to make their way home. And a rowdy bunch they are too, they love to chitter chatter and shout at one another. Regardless of the late hour, considerate they are not. I spotted my first little Blue Penguin by accident. I knew they were around; we were warned beforehand by our hosts and to be honest the smell in the garden upon arrival kind of gave it away, but it was still a surprise to look out of the window into the darkness and see the little fellow standing there. He looked around to get his bearings and then scurried away under our deck. He was soon followed by several others. Some stopped for a while, others ducked down making a run for it. We kept the lights low and ourselves quiet, respectful that we didn’t want to cause them any disturbance. They needed to find their nests, reacquaint, and rest up. Early the following morning I heard them make their move to leave once again for another long day at sea fishing, good luck little guys see you tonight I whispered, before turning over in my super comfy bed to catch up on my sleep.

That view…..

Keep an eye out for my blog featuring ideas of what to do when staying in The Catlins

Discover a lost world - Ulva Island, Stewart Island

If you are curious about birds and wildlife or just intriguied to experience a unique habitat at the bottom of the world then a day at Ulva Island is for you.

I say a day, as no one is able to stay overnight on Ulva Island without permission so a day trip is the most you are allowed. to be honest though a few hours is all the time that is needed to discover an Incredible natural environment. I ended up getting an earlier water taxi back as the area of the island you can visit is limited. Only a small corner is open to the public, the rest belongs to the native New Zealand birds who despite being sadly nearly obliterated in the rest of the country remain blissfully well and flourishing here.

Organizing a water taxi to take me across the small passage of water from Stewart Island to Ulva was easy. There is a ferry that runs to a timetable too but I like to do things at random therefore the taxi worked better for me. The water crossing was a little trubulant at times but then this is the southern ocean where sea legs and big swells seem to go hand in hand.

Ancient forest and lots of birds

I had picked up a map from the Department of Conservation centre in Oban, the main and only settlement on Stewart Island. For a few dollars I uncovered a great deal of knowledge about the island, it’s history and it’s habitat. I had also read up on the three or four loop tracks available and memorized the endangered birds I hoped to spot. With the cheese, ham and jalpeno scones I had picked up from the local Oban café I was primed and ready to go. I didn’t at this stage appreciate though how popular the said scones would be with the petite yet tame Stewart Island Robin.

Leaving the small wharf behind at Ulva I following a pathway to a smattering of street signs pointing me in several different directions. It was hard to believe that just close to me was the only remainng homestead on the island, privately owned and therefore sealed off from prying eyes. It used to be the local post office for the area. It was a slice of history well worth reading up about. When the post arrived the flag would be raised at the nearby Flagstaff Hill (which you can climb yourself for worthwhile views across Paterson Inlet), and the families of the Stewart Island sawmill, boat buildings and fishing settlements from all around would row across to retrieve it. Considering the water was choppy and cold enough inside a decent size water taxi, I cannot imagine how it must have been in a rowing boat or canoe! They were hardy souls to say the very least.

The reason I had travelled to the island though was not so much the human history but the bird kind. For Ulva offers us a habitat to discover what New Zealand as a whole would have been like prior to human settlement. The bird song here is incredible and reminiscent of how the country would have sounded when the first settlers arrived. Give or take the odd tune of course, for the birds here on Stewart Island are slightly different varieties from those on either the North or South Islands. It’s all interesting stuff.

Super tame and curious Stewart Island Robin

So I started out with a Stewart Island Weka, busy scurrying around the wharf area. Weka’s are found in numerous places on the South Island and are often mistaken for a kiwi as they are similar in size and colour. They don’t have the long beaks though and are often more active in daylight hours than there more famous counterparts. I’ve had numerous encounters with Weka and know they are highly curious birds with a mischievous tendency to pinch things. My water proof jacket was pulled into the bush on more than one occasion by a crafty Weka whilst I was hiking the Heaphy Track!

Strolling along it wasn’t long before I came across my first Kereru, the New Zealand wood pigeon, which swoops past landing clumsily in the branches of a tree. Then I met one of the Stewart Island Robins happy to have a conversation with me as it hopped along my pathway. Overhead the Kaka squawked as they flew between the trees in groups of three or four. It soon became quite boring to spot another of these large and critically endangered parrots – oh another kaka became a common saying and theme. As did the robins that kept appearing at my side. I followed the well formed walkway towards the beaches on the north side of the island. In between times I spotted numerous Bellbird, Tomtis and Tui. As I approached the coastal area I came across my first New Zealand Parakeet, they travel in pairs and the red-crowned ones are much more common than their yellow counterparts. I held my breath listening to the chattering call and spotted a fellow parakeet companion not far away. Soon the dense camouflage of bush opened up to a lovely beach with great views across the inlet. It would have made an ideal spot for a sit down and picnic but unfortunately the weather wasn’t playing well for me and the cold wind made it harsh on the senses. I soon opted to continue my walk into the canopy of the forest.

Wait for it… more about my visit to Ulva Island shortly….

“By discovering nature, you discover yourself”

— Maime Lagace

QT Queenstown is a memorable blend of style and comfort, go on treat yourself

The QT Hotel is a stylish modern hotel that is part of the on trend Aussie group. They are the younger more cool version of the Rydges Hotel Group. The QT in Queenstown is actually sat just behind and above the Rydges and they share facilities. Don’t let this put you off though as the facilities here are good.

Okay so the swimming pool isn’t the best – but this is the mountains so really, how often will you be going for a dip? Yes Queenstown summers do get ridiculously hot at times, but I’ve also been there in February when there has been snow on those surrounding peaks and the heater has been zapped up.

The reception area is influenced by the neighbouring ski fields. There are lots of bright warm colours such as purple and red. There is even one of those drop down fires to warm the cockles on a chilly day.

Each floor has large windows so that those spectacular lake views are evident as soon as you step out of the lift. The rooms are cosy  and cool. Lovely sofas, black and white bathrooms, complete with huge tubs and walk in showers. The bed is one of those you fall into and never seem to stop falling, it swallows you whole. There is even a lovely big blanket to wrap yourself it, a mini bar full of Kiwi favourites and luxurious robes. With these rooms you might never want to leave.

View across Queenstown

But please do, for the Red bar downstairs is so good. With it’s massive windows overlooking the mountain ranges and lake it’s a truly special place for a drink. The cocktail list has to be tried, it’s just awesome, as are the local wines that are showcased by the glass. Have one drink or several, and even better aim to be there around sunset to watch those natural colours changes before you, it’s a sight that will live long in the memory.

Looking back from the Queenstown gardens towards the town

Abel Tasman National Park - hiking a New Zealand coastline

The walk begins at the end of town, not far from a large car parking area and a lovely eating/drinking spot known as The Park Café. Signs advise how long it is to the next part of the track so that you can gauge exactly how far too walk. If I was doing a multi-day walk I would probably arrange a water taxi from Mapua to take me out further into the park. This enables a walk back along the coast finishing at The Park Café with a large glass of wine – surely the best way to end an incredible adventure. Today though I am just going to walk a short way – to dip my toes into this expansive but rewarding New Zealand coastal park. The sign tells me the distance, walking at an average person pace, to various beaches dotted along the park. I decide to allow my legs carry me as far as I can get.

Starting point of the Abel Tasman Great Walk

At first the walk traverses a boardwalk over the estuary, the tide is out and various sea birds frequent the area scrummaging on the sandy banks for morsels of food. I enter the start of the bush with a long sandy beach to my right hand side. It looks inviting but I press onwards further into the forest. There is some replanting taking place alongside the pathway as never-ending work continues to ensure the Abel Tasman remains as it was always supposed to be. The path way is sandy but stable although I have to keep my eye out for losses rocks and tree routes that jut through. I continue climbing steadily upwards and into denser bush.

A sandy stretch of beach along the Abel Tasman Track

Tin Cup beach is on my right, a short walk down hill and up on my left is the campsite which is a grass clearing ready for use by tents. As I continue onwards a weka wanders down the pathway towards me. He looks up and we peer at one another, hello weka I say, the weka responds by plunging into the nearest bush for safety. As I climb higher the views of the coastline beneath me begin to peek into view.

One of the many bays you can walk down too from the track

The teal green colour of the sea, a marine reserve, is mesmerizing on a sunny day. Further out across the water are islands – Adele and Tonga, both protected sanctuaries for bird life and home to large colonies of the New Zealand Fur Seal. If you peer hard enough you can sometimes make out the seals bobbing and twisting around in the water. I hear a couple of fantails squeak around me, following me through the forest, a family of quail pop out onto the pathway and dart off again.

An ideal camping spot in summer with the sea lapping beside your tent

On my left hand side a baby bird pops its head out of the bush. It catches my eye and I notice a trio of fluffy baby wekas eagerly peering at me. Suddenly a large warning squawk tells me abruptly to go away – it’s mum or dad anxious to protect their little ones. I heed their advise and carry on. The track narrows in places, where waterfalls cascade down it’s sides. Dark patches of forest where the sun rays never quite reach a patchy underfoot.

Next instalment coming shortly…….. watch this space…..

Ideas for taking time out in lovely quaint Akaroa

Akaroa is a seaside village on the Bank’s Peninsula. It’s name means long harbour and the water is definitely the prime reason for most peoples visits here. Whether this is to get out on the water to boat and fish, in the water to swim with the local pod of dolphins or literally just paddle by the beach or on a paddle board.

Paddle boarding in Akaroa Harbour

Akaroa was partially settled by the French (after some confusion and agreement with the British) and their influence is visible in the town still today. Street signs and lighting is in the French style, lots of place names are French and there is even a French cemetery to visit. For a small place it has a lot going for it, with a lovely waterfront promenade to enjoy, a small yet attractive beach and numerous jetties from which to launch boats. Trips leave daily for nature tours, swimming with the world’s smallest Hectors Dolphins (a pod live within and around the harbour), fishing and sailing. There are kayaks to hire which I highly recommend. On a warm day there is nothing better than making your way around the harbour edges, spotting local seabirds.

The town itself has an array of accommodation options, some waterside whilst others offer bush or sea views. The café / restaurant / bar options in town are numerous, including a former toilet block that has been converted into a bar overlooking the beach.

There are plenty of balconies from which to take in the views in Akaroa

he town butchers is one of the very best in New Zealand – it has an array of options if you are looking to self-cater – choose from some award winning sausages, local Akaroa salmon or even homemade lasagna. Whatever you do though don’t miss out on the fish and chips – there are two outlets in Akaroa, both being excellent. The one on the waterfront is a top spot as proven by the queue often stretching outside the door. Whilst Murphy’s positioned just behind the main through fare on a corner serves up only fish caught that morning.

There is a cooking school that offers regular classes with cuisine choices from around the world and a small native bush area to stroll through and if you are lucky listen to the bellbirds and tui chorus. A short walk further up from the town is the Akaroa lighthouse. It is open on Sunday afternoons to explore, but otherwise the views across the harbour are reward enough for the short stroll around to it – I’ve even spotted a couple of dolphins from this spot making their way across the harbour.

The views are equally splendid from the water too….

Journey into the Abel Tasman National Park

he Abel Tasman National Park, a short drive from Nelson at the top of the South Island is an ideal spot for hiking or kayaking.

The coastal track here is classed as one of the countries great walks. It can be walked over a number of days or in shorter periods.

Water taxis buzz along the coastline servicing all the various drop off points for hikers, day trippers and kayakers. There are a number of idyllic camping spots to spend an unforgettable night. Some only accessible by water.

I’ll be writing another blog shortly all about hiking the track over a few days. It’s one of the most easy and accessible multi day walks in New Zealand and recommended for beginners to overnight hiking who might be slightly nervous about a first adventure into the bush alone.

The estuary at low tide at Marahau, gateway to the Abel Tasman

My weekend started with a drive from Nelson through to Motueka. Motueka is a service town for the neighbouring areas but it’s also fast becoming a top spot to spend a couple of days. As well as splendid scenery it also has a number of wineries dotted around it’s outer reaches. There are some great eateries as well – T.O.A.D Hall is a popular spot on the outskirts of town catering for an array of needs. They have their own juice bar and ice creamery. They serve great breakfasts and even open on an evening for pizza. The place is huge with a fantastic beer garden out the back. The Smoking Barrel is becoming famous for its donuts, which are apparently incredibly creative. Elevation is a top coffee house but my favourite is Patisserie Royale. Stock up early morning for both breakfast and lunch and you can’t go wrong. The house-made pies and quiches are divine. They have a great choice of sandwiches, including exciting vegetarian versions. However as you’d expect from a French bakery it’s the patisseries that win out. A massive array of pain au chocolat, pain au raison, almond tarts, the list is endless. Choosing which one to sample is the hardest part. But trust me when I say, you cannot go wrong.

Overlooking the beach at Marahau

Leaving Motueka the road snakes through farmland and through small settlements that are present mainly to support the fruits and hops that grow prolifically in this area. As you turn off towards Mapua the landscape alters once again to dense bush and pine forest. This part of the country suffered from some devastating flooding a few years ago and the road is only just back to one piece again. The approach into Mapua itself is through coastal wetlands. The road curves around an estuary that is popular with fishermen when the tide is right. Mapua is small, spread out along the coastline. As you would expect there are a number of kayaking and water taxi operators here. There are motels and campsites and a couple of worth café/restaurants. I will talk about accommodation and food options in the area in another blog shortly.

At the far end of Mapua as you follow the coastline – which can’t be missed as it runs alongside the roadway the bush strewn landscape of the Abel Tasman National Park looms up above. Coming next, the Abel Tasman National Park

A trip to Queenstown

No weekend in Queenstown would be complete without some form of adrenaline fueled activity. There are so many options even on a cold damp spring day. Jet ski, cruise, kayak, fish, even speeding around in a jet boat is to be spotted out on the lake. That’s not to mention the numerous bungy jumps, ziplines and scenic flights available.

Looking out over Queenstown and it’s lake

 I took advantage of the wet weather to join Shark Attack on the lake. I figured I was already wet so why not! A true Kiwiesque experience ‘Shark Attack’ has taken the humble jet ski and converted it into something that can soar underneath the lake and bounce up out on top. Designed as a shark it’s a novel sight just to watch let alone have a go in. You squeeze in behind your shark driver and the glass roof is pulled across over you and then the fun begins. The shark whizzes through the water at top speed, often on its side. It frequently plunges down into the depths beneath as per the habits of a real shark I guess. You are left holding your breath knowing if that small covering doesn’t hold it’s not going to take very long for your cramped space to fill up with water. And by heck that lake water is cold, trust me I've dipped my toe in it..... It’s curious to see under the lake though – the water is a vivid pure blue as you dive down which is created by the glacial rock salt. Be warned your ears will continue to pop long after you have escaped the sharks interior.

Bungy jumping is just one of the many crazy fun things you can do in Queenstown

After all that excitement I needed a moment of tranquillity and relaxation. The Lodge Bar is positioned perfectly on the forefront of the lake right in the heart of Queenstown. It’s part of the men’s clothing store Rodd and Gunn and offers comfort aplenty with big comfy seats in Scottish highland colours, lots of fluffy cushions and rugs aplenty. They have a tempting small plate menu and a substantial drinks list. The wine by the glass represents the local region. It’s all very civilized as you while away the time people watching.

Lakeside people watching is part of the fun in Queenstown

For a bite to eat you could take on any number of Queenstown restaurants, there are some fantastic eateries here catering for a wide range of budgets. Just along the lake front from my seat in The Lodge is Botswana Butchery, long behold as one of the best steak restaurants in New Zealand.

Top Tip: if on a budget treat yourself to lunch at Botswana, the menu is extensive and a lot more affordable than later in the day.

Lunch at the Botswana Butchery, leave room for the dessert

I also love a trip to Madam Woo. It is always buzzing and offers some great Malaysian street food which is recommended for sharing. Try the roti rolls that are a real treat. Blue Kanu showcases the best of Pacifica and Asian fare. I love their duck nachos and strongly recommend a curry, the clever play on ingredients makes it a fun place to eat. They also showcase local Otago wines.

My sleep for the night was at the five star QT Hotel and I will talk about this in a later blog shortly. 

The lake and mountains of Queenstown

The weekend road trip through the middle of the South Island

They say life is about the journey not just the destination and to be honest  this could also be said about the drive through the centre of New Zealand’s south Island.

Beginning on the long straight plains through Canterbury you pass endless farmland complete with sheep, cattle and water pivots as you head across to the lofty heights of the Southern Alps, the mountain range that splits the island into two. The Southern Alps stretch most of the length of the South Island and divide it into separate parts, the east which tends to be on the dry side, and the west which is to say the least is very wet. It’s quite a distinction.

Who doesn’t love a road trip when the sun’s out…

The small town of Geraldine is the first noticeable stopping point on this epic adventure. It’s a great little place, a service town for all the neighbouring farms, a tourist stopping off point on the journey from Christchurch through to the mountains, and yet still manages to maintain its own vibrant personality. Barkers, the New Zealand jam and sauce manufacturers, are based here (you will see their products in every supermarket) and have a lively café to enjoy a coffee and a few treats. It’s light and airy with windows opening up to a garden area at the back. There is also my personal favourite, Verde, a local café which never fails to offer great breakfast and lunch options whether from the menu or the counter. In summertime perch yourself in one of their garden seats or on the sunny veranda.

 As you journey onwards from Geraldine the scenery begins to change, you will notice more hills and slopes appearing. The road changes from long and straight to more winding, climbing up over forest areas and past mountain streams. After a while you reach Fairlie, the gateway to the Mackenzie country. It’s also the home to one of New Zealand’s favourite pie shops – and that is saying a lot as pies are a big deal over here. Fairlie Bakehouse is always busy – they have a daily selection of pies written up on their blackboard – all our good but the most popular are probably their salmon and back and the pork with apple scratching.

Suitably sauted from your Fairlie pie it’s best to be on your way down the road, passing small settlements such as Burkes Pass, which has a quirky feel to it, complete with wild west style shops. Unknowingly you are slowly climbing upwards towards those mountains. At the side of the road there are signs indicating turn offs for ski areas. Pull offs are available along straight stretches of the highway to take much south after snaps of the snowy peaks ahead on a clear day.

The Mackenzie Region, the scenery becomes more dramatic as you approach the Southern Alps

The next highlight is Lake Tekapo which will follow soon…….

The Road to Milford Sound, continued....

Leaving the Hollyford Valley behind the road met up with a river which seemed to be fed by the imposing mountains now towering above me. As the rain fell waterfalls appeared cascading down from the mountain peaks high above. Warning signs alerted me to the fact that I was now in an avalanche risk area and was unable to stop. This went on for over 30km - such are the perils in this area. The snow now blanketed the sides of the road and as I climbed higher the rain itself actually turned to snow.

Snow lines the road up towards Homer Tunnel

Approaching Homer Tunnel – which was famously cut out through the mountainside to provide much needed manual labour after the war years, the mountains seem to move closer to the roadside and gigantic boulders and lumps of rock lay scattered about. No wonder it was a no stopping area I thought to myself! I had to stop a little further however as the lights for the tunnel were red. It is run on a one way system and the waiting time on the big board in front of me advised 10 minutes. Just enough time to jump out of the car, pull on the waterproofs, and take some essential photographs. Snapping the shots was so easy as there were epic views in every direction. Trying to take in the colossal might of the place and it's sheer wonderment was though another matter. No picture could ever do it justice. Sometimes nature just wins hands down, leaving you with the impression that you are both small and insignificant in her immense scheme of things.

The waiting sign at the entrance to Homer Tunnel

Eventually the lights turned to green and I drove carefully through the tiny hole in the mountainside - no Homer Tunnel isn't small, but it does look like a dot on the mountainside when you are in such a place. Driving through I counted the markings, 600km, 800km etc until I reached the light at the end. It was quite a relief Homer Tunnel is not for the faint hearted, once you've experienced it you will understand my statement. I've been through it in fog once before which was quite an ordeal, a case of clinging on for sheer will if I'm honest. Finally emerging into the Cleddau Valley on the other-side of the mountain range my breath nearly left my body and my hands tightened ever so more on that steering wheel. The drop into Cleddau Valley is impressive, it’s also slightly scary as you corkscrew around the tight bends in the road plummeting you down into the valley. There used to be a great stopping point in this area known as The Chasm but sadly it’s closed at the moment due to the storms earlier in 2020 that caused significant damage in this area. After driving through the avalanche zone for so long I breathed a huge sigh as the signs indicated I was finely free of such risks. Yes, these days the road is controlled and monitored well, with hazardous snow build ups reduced by detonator when the road is closed, to try to prevent any unforeseen avalanche. Nothing is certain though and we all know that nature is a force to be reckoned with.

Nature rules in such a place

I continued weaving my way around the valley floor through dense New Zealand Fiordland rainforest before eventually I reaching my destination, Milford Sound. The drive had been one of amazement, bewilderment, gob smacking scenery and a small bit of terror – colossal in every respect and one that lives in the memory forever afterwards.

The seating area in the Milford Lodge, a welcome escape from the weather

Rain pours down the window panes at Milford Lodge which is surrounded by native rainforest

Milford Lodge was my first port of call as I parked up and purchased a well earnt coffee to relax the nerves and enjoy in their freshly decorated café. The fur coverings on my seat warming me as I watched the rain tumble through the bush and wash down the window outside – this is the Fiordlands after all and to make it this incredible it needs all that rain…..

The departure point for boat trips at Milford Sound

a big sigh, the Road to Milford Sound

They say the journey is sometimes as good as the destination. And on occasions it can actually be better.

The whole aim of this blog is to encourage everyone to get out there are try things and sometimes that involves a long drive, sometimes it’s just down the road.  

Milford Road is one of those journeys that transcends your everyday – it is something unforgettable and is worthy of the drive even if there was nothing worthwhile to see at the end. The end of this road though is Milford Sound – reckoned by many to be possibly the eighth wonder of the world. (please see my earlier blog about Milford Sounds boat cruises). 

Taking a boat cruise at Milford Sound is a must do…

Milford Road leaves the township of Te Anau behind and follows the side of it’s namesakes lake for quite some time. Rolling hillside and lakeside accommodation passes by. In the distance large mountains loom their lofty peaks covered in snow. On the left hand side you pass the docking point for the boat ferrying hikers to the start of the legendary Milford Track, and then the road suddenly turns left and those mountains lie ahead of you. The farmland continues with fields full of hardy sheep, paradise shell ducks and some resilient cattle. This continues until you reach Etherington Valley, a long road takes you through the its heart alongside a braided river which roars through the valley.

Ethrington Valley on the road to MIlford

There are viewing points along the road to take photographs of the oncoming wilderness. A short drive further down the road reaches knobs flat, an accommodation and information point with an essential bathroom stop if one is needed. You then venture onwards until the landscape turns to bush and several Department of Conservation campsites hidden a short distance away. The next stopping point is on the left hand side with  long pull off for Mirror Lakes.

A South Island Robin is a reluctant poser for photographs at Mirror Lakes, Milford Road

A boardwalk takes you above these small lakes to allow you a good vantage point to see the reflection in the water of the towering mountains looming above. They have even kindly left a sign above the lake reflecting the name of the place, very clever. On my visit I was alone for much of the time and that ensured lots of wildlife viewing – a grey duck, native to New Zealand was nearby pecking at insects floating on the water. I also spied a rare South Island Robin, which pirouetted a few times around me but didn’t seem to keen to pose for it’s photograph for some bizarre reason….

A rare ‘grey duck’ samples some insect life on the Mirror Lake surface. The reflection from the mountains above is also clear

As I drove onwards the bush became thicker and darker, creeping up alongside the roadway as if trying to reclaim it as its own. After a small one lane bridge a sign pointed towards a campsite and a nature walk. Intrigued I drove a short distance and parked up. An information board advised me that there was a 45 minute loop walk to enjoy down to the shore line of Lake Gunn.

The green moss floor that greets you in the Milford Road bush

What struck me first was how green everything was. It was a shade of emerald bright and dazzling in the sunlight but dark and unnerving in the gloom. Everything was smothered in a moss of some sort. Trees grew out of other trees and hardy ferns covered the forest floor.

Dan at the start of the Nature Walk through native forest to the shoreline of Lake Gunn

An opening in the bush bought me to Lake Gunn, a lake surrounded on all sides by dense native bush. The water lapped at the small stones at my feet as I stood and admired the view. There wasn’t a sound to be heard except the lapping of the shallow clear water. I learnt that the lake stretched over 3km’s and I was only looking out at a small part of it. I continued on the loop walk back to my car listening to the local bird song echoing from the branches up above.

Trees growing up and around and out of other trees are common sights in this damp forest

The road as I drove onwards was now becoming narrower and windier.  I passed a sign informing me that it was the last campsite available to Milford Sound, I was entering the true wilderness area.

I started climbing upwards noticing how the bush appeared to be getting thicker in places. The road now seemed to be cut out of the cliffside with a steep slope to the side of me along which waterfalls plummeted down. At least that’s what I think they did, as at this point my knuckles were white from the grip on my steering wheel.

Mountains surround you on all sides on Milford Road

 On the way up to Milford the cloud was low and a fog had settled across the valley obscuring the views. On my way back however the sun had burnt it all away exposing the vast valley below. The pull off at the viewing point overlooking Hollyford Valley is named pops point after one of the original caretakers who sadly got swept away in an avalanche whilst trying to clear the road.

Coming next, the giant boulders, unfathomable terrain and Homer Tunnel

Milford Sound, a nature cruise on the wild side

Although it cannot be overstated enough that any visit to Milford Sound is as much about the drive as it is about the destination, please don’t underestimate the destination. Milford Sound was claimed to be the 8th wonder of the world and after any visit it’s very difficult to argue with this. I’ve been to this incredible place three times now and still feel overwhelmed by its splendour on every visit.

Magnificent, yet moody, Milford Sound is an epic experience

At first glance on arrival, after you have ventured through so much epic scenery on the road, it is easy to feel a little underwhelmed. The village at Milford has little to show for it, with a few buildings and an oversized car park. There is also the boat terminal which is on the large side to accommodate all the tours that depart from here. But if you take a moment and peer out towards the water your breath can be quite literally taken from you – Mitre Peak rising out of any lingering cloud dominates the scene and is the picture postcard image for Milford Sound.

If you journey all the way to Milford you must head out on the water. A boat trip is a necessity to grasp the sheer length of the sound itself but there is also a great kayaking trip to experience. I will come to this option in a later blog as the sunrise kayak is a special day out. This blog will focus only on the cruise. With several options to choose from (all largely following the same route) I joined a Nature Cruise with Southern Discoveries onboard one of their catamarans. I decided on this as the cruise left at 10.30am before any of the day trips and coach parties travelling down from Queenstown could arrive. It had been raining hard that morning but was only drizzling once we boarded the boat itself which was a good thing – you need water at Milford to get a glimpse of all those majestic waterfalls that plunge down from the huge cliff faces all around, but it’s not too much fun getting soaked to the skin as you try to photograph them. You also don’t want too much low cloud hanging around as this obscures the tops of the mighty peaks and prevents you from grasping the sheer scale of the place.

The boat terminal at Milford Sound

Trying to grasp this size is so difficult until you spot another tour boat out on the water (there was a grand total of three throughout the whole Sound on my visit) and can take that magical shot of the boat looking so small up against the waterfall and the mountain – nature is mega here.

The Milford Mariner just below Sterling Falls, one of the waterfalls at Milford Sound

The journey out through the length of the Sound enabled us to absorb it’s length and awe inspiring beauty. In some parts trees and shrubs grow out of the sheer rock face and there are a couple of waterfalls that continue to plunge down even when it hasn’t rained. The Sound is home to a pod of bottlenose dolphins that we didn’t spot on my cruise, but we were fortunate to spy some New Zealand fur seals – young males who hang out on the rocks and peer at you with mild curiosity. I also witnessed a very rare Fiordland penguin leaping through the glassy smooth waters surface. At Harrison Cove, the site for the first ever settlement in these parts, and now the spot for the overnight trips to berth, we paused for a moment to appreciate the peace – a place hardly touch by humanity, with little sound except the ripple of the water and the breath of wind through the trees.

As our boat made it’s slow journey back to the Milford Sound terminal I took one last look around – there are some special places out there, to be left as nature intended.

Coming shortly, the amazing drive to Milford Sound…….

Resting up in Te Anau, gateway to Fiordland National Park

Te Anau is essentially a service town, for all the local farmers and tourist operators in the surrounding area. It’s also an excellent base for visitors keen to explore the Fiordlands. It's the gateway to several of New Zealand's Great Walks, Kepler, Milford and Routeburn.

The lake front at Te Anau

The town is attractive, situated alongside the lake front, with a wide high street offering an array of shops, bars and restaurants. The lakeside itself is awash with motels, backpackers and hotel accommodations. There are wharfs for boat trips (there are sightseeing trips along the lake, water taxis that take you to drop off points for accessing the Great Walks, such as Kepler and Milford, and even a boat that takes you over the lake to spy some glow worms hidden in a cave only accessible by water - check out the Real Journey's website). There are also helicopter and seaplane trips departing from this area offering unforgettable trips over the Fiordland National Park - check out Southern Lakes Helicopters and Wings & Water.

Te Anau is the perfect stop over point for access to Fiordland National Park, the views aren’t too bad either….

The town is home to a couple of useful supermarkets. The bakery offers good sandwiches and tasty slices to tide you over on one of your many excursions into the great outdoors. My favourite coffee spot in town is Sandfly café, it’s usually packed full of locals which is always a good sign. There are tables out on the front lawn under some shady tree branches. The coffee is great, as are the Southland cheese rolls (a south island speciality and essential to try) and the homemade venison pies. Don’t miss out on a tasty treat from the counter for afters., you won't regret it.

On an evening there are several bars and restaurants buzzing with people returning from a great adventure. My favourites are The Fat Duck and The Redcliff. The Black Dog Bar is the most sophisticated spot for a drink, they even serve their own wine and beer, and be sure to check out the cinema next door.

Look out for my guide to the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary and Manapouri coming very soon….

Accommodation

options for places to stay in Te Anau coming shortly….