Abel Tasman National Park - hiking a New Zealand coastline

The walk begins at the end of town, not far from a large car parking area and a lovely eating/drinking spot known as The Park Café. Signs advise how long it is to the next part of the track so that you can gauge exactly how far too walk. If I was doing a multi-day walk I would probably arrange a water taxi from Mapua to take me out further into the park. This enables a walk back along the coast finishing at The Park Café with a large glass of wine – surely the best way to end an incredible adventure. Today though I am just going to walk a short way – to dip my toes into this expansive but rewarding New Zealand coastal park. The sign tells me the distance, walking at an average person pace, to various beaches dotted along the park. I decide to allow my legs carry me as far as I can get.

Starting point of the Abel Tasman Great Walk

At first the walk traverses a boardwalk over the estuary, the tide is out and various sea birds frequent the area scrummaging on the sandy banks for morsels of food. I enter the start of the bush with a long sandy beach to my right hand side. It looks inviting but I press onwards further into the forest. There is some replanting taking place alongside the pathway as never-ending work continues to ensure the Abel Tasman remains as it was always supposed to be. The path way is sandy but stable although I have to keep my eye out for losses rocks and tree routes that jut through. I continue climbing steadily upwards and into denser bush.

A sandy stretch of beach along the Abel Tasman Track

Tin Cup beach is on my right, a short walk down hill and up on my left is the campsite which is a grass clearing ready for use by tents. As I continue onwards a weka wanders down the pathway towards me. He looks up and we peer at one another, hello weka I say, the weka responds by plunging into the nearest bush for safety. As I climb higher the views of the coastline beneath me begin to peek into view.

One of the many bays you can walk down too from the track

The teal green colour of the sea, a marine reserve, is mesmerizing on a sunny day. Further out across the water are islands – Adele and Tonga, both protected sanctuaries for bird life and home to large colonies of the New Zealand Fur Seal. If you peer hard enough you can sometimes make out the seals bobbing and twisting around in the water. I hear a couple of fantails squeak around me, following me through the forest, a family of quail pop out onto the pathway and dart off again.

An ideal camping spot in summer with the sea lapping beside your tent

On my left hand side a baby bird pops its head out of the bush. It catches my eye and I notice a trio of fluffy baby wekas eagerly peering at me. Suddenly a large warning squawk tells me abruptly to go away – it’s mum or dad anxious to protect their little ones. I heed their advise and carry on. The track narrows in places, where waterfalls cascade down it’s sides. Dark patches of forest where the sun rays never quite reach a patchy underfoot.

Next instalment coming shortly…….. watch this space…..

The Road to Milford Sound, continued....

Leaving the Hollyford Valley behind the road met up with a river which seemed to be fed by the imposing mountains now towering above me. As the rain fell waterfalls appeared cascading down from the mountain peaks high above. Warning signs alerted me to the fact that I was now in an avalanche risk area and was unable to stop. This went on for over 30km - such are the perils in this area. The snow now blanketed the sides of the road and as I climbed higher the rain itself actually turned to snow.

Snow lines the road up towards Homer Tunnel

Approaching Homer Tunnel – which was famously cut out through the mountainside to provide much needed manual labour after the war years, the mountains seem to move closer to the roadside and gigantic boulders and lumps of rock lay scattered about. No wonder it was a no stopping area I thought to myself! I had to stop a little further however as the lights for the tunnel were red. It is run on a one way system and the waiting time on the big board in front of me advised 10 minutes. Just enough time to jump out of the car, pull on the waterproofs, and take some essential photographs. Snapping the shots was so easy as there were epic views in every direction. Trying to take in the colossal might of the place and it's sheer wonderment was though another matter. No picture could ever do it justice. Sometimes nature just wins hands down, leaving you with the impression that you are both small and insignificant in her immense scheme of things.

The waiting sign at the entrance to Homer Tunnel

Eventually the lights turned to green and I drove carefully through the tiny hole in the mountainside - no Homer Tunnel isn't small, but it does look like a dot on the mountainside when you are in such a place. Driving through I counted the markings, 600km, 800km etc until I reached the light at the end. It was quite a relief Homer Tunnel is not for the faint hearted, once you've experienced it you will understand my statement. I've been through it in fog once before which was quite an ordeal, a case of clinging on for sheer will if I'm honest. Finally emerging into the Cleddau Valley on the other-side of the mountain range my breath nearly left my body and my hands tightened ever so more on that steering wheel. The drop into Cleddau Valley is impressive, it’s also slightly scary as you corkscrew around the tight bends in the road plummeting you down into the valley. There used to be a great stopping point in this area known as The Chasm but sadly it’s closed at the moment due to the storms earlier in 2020 that caused significant damage in this area. After driving through the avalanche zone for so long I breathed a huge sigh as the signs indicated I was finely free of such risks. Yes, these days the road is controlled and monitored well, with hazardous snow build ups reduced by detonator when the road is closed, to try to prevent any unforeseen avalanche. Nothing is certain though and we all know that nature is a force to be reckoned with.

Nature rules in such a place

I continued weaving my way around the valley floor through dense New Zealand Fiordland rainforest before eventually I reaching my destination, Milford Sound. The drive had been one of amazement, bewilderment, gob smacking scenery and a small bit of terror – colossal in every respect and one that lives in the memory forever afterwards.

The seating area in the Milford Lodge, a welcome escape from the weather

Rain pours down the window panes at Milford Lodge which is surrounded by native rainforest

Milford Lodge was my first port of call as I parked up and purchased a well earnt coffee to relax the nerves and enjoy in their freshly decorated café. The fur coverings on my seat warming me as I watched the rain tumble through the bush and wash down the window outside – this is the Fiordlands after all and to make it this incredible it needs all that rain…..

The departure point for boat trips at Milford Sound

Resting up in Te Anau, gateway to Fiordland National Park

Te Anau is essentially a service town, for all the local farmers and tourist operators in the surrounding area. It’s also an excellent base for visitors keen to explore the Fiordlands. It's the gateway to several of New Zealand's Great Walks, Kepler, Milford and Routeburn.

The lake front at Te Anau

The town is attractive, situated alongside the lake front, with a wide high street offering an array of shops, bars and restaurants. The lakeside itself is awash with motels, backpackers and hotel accommodations. There are wharfs for boat trips (there are sightseeing trips along the lake, water taxis that take you to drop off points for accessing the Great Walks, such as Kepler and Milford, and even a boat that takes you over the lake to spy some glow worms hidden in a cave only accessible by water - check out the Real Journey's website). There are also helicopter and seaplane trips departing from this area offering unforgettable trips over the Fiordland National Park - check out Southern Lakes Helicopters and Wings & Water.

Te Anau is the perfect stop over point for access to Fiordland National Park, the views aren’t too bad either….

The town is home to a couple of useful supermarkets. The bakery offers good sandwiches and tasty slices to tide you over on one of your many excursions into the great outdoors. My favourite coffee spot in town is Sandfly café, it’s usually packed full of locals which is always a good sign. There are tables out on the front lawn under some shady tree branches. The coffee is great, as are the Southland cheese rolls (a south island speciality and essential to try) and the homemade venison pies. Don’t miss out on a tasty treat from the counter for afters., you won't regret it.

On an evening there are several bars and restaurants buzzing with people returning from a great adventure. My favourites are The Fat Duck and The Redcliff. The Black Dog Bar is the most sophisticated spot for a drink, they even serve their own wine and beer, and be sure to check out the cinema next door.

Look out for my guide to the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary and Manapouri coming very soon….

Accommodation

options for places to stay in Te Anau coming shortly….

Havelock, home of the delicious green lipped mussel and gateway to Marlborough

Havelock is known as the gateway to the Marlbourgh Sounds. It’s also the mussel capital of New Zealand – and that’s quite a claim given how well renowned the green lipped mussels are in this area.

The town itself is neat and compact postioned at the end of one of the sounds. Like many people I had only previously ever driven through it on my way to places. I was always tempted to pull over and try out one of the many eateries along the main highway which offered lunches of the local mussels amongst other temptations. I’d never got around to it though until I hired a campervan to spend the weekend touring the local area. Havelock has a friendly, efficient camp site situated right in the centre of the township. It’s so easy to park up and then get out and explore. The marina is just behind the site and it was much bigger than I imagined. The gateway out into the Sounds it’s a popular spot to launch a boat. The mussel barges also berth here servicing the farms growing in the vast clean waters. You can be absolutely certain that any mussel served here is as fresh as it comes given they are grown just out across the bay.

Havelock Marina, a popular spot on a sunny afternoon

A circuit around the marina and onto the main high street brought me to a number of pubs and cafes offering mussel creations. I opted for the Captains Daughter, a pub built in a traditional manner, the type you would expect to find in an English village with a real fire glowing in the centre to warm the coggles. It wasn’t too chilly though on the winters day I visited and the deck outside was inviting. A large area it was warmed by the weak winters sun. I ordered a glass of local Marlborough sav and the toughest decision was to decide between the steamed or grilled mussels. I opted for grilled in garlic butter and a side portion of chips to complete the meal. It sure was heaven..

Locally caught green lipped mussels served grills from the Captain’s Daughter in Havelock

Havelock is surrounded by bush lined hills rising to meets the sounds, and although the main road to Nelson was just outside the door I failed to notice it.

Just down the road from Havelock is Pelorus. A pull off just before the small one lane bridge takes you into a carpark surrounded by bush. There is access to a campsite and café here. The café is an excellent spot to call off at – their cakes and pies are top notch (yes okay I’ve sampled a few, I confess). To make up for said calorie count are several walks leading off from here that range in lengths - I will discuss all about the local walks in this area in a later blog….. 

Coming up – great camping spots around the South Island

The bush smothered hills surrounding the town of Havelock, gateway to the Marlborough Sounds

Glacier Express

Well not exactly glacier express, but these two, Franz Josef and Fox, are amongst the most easily accessible glaciers to be found throughout the world. They are also the only glaciers that descend so closely to the sea. Although steadily retreating it is still possible to take Heli hikes to traverse the glacier surface at both
Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Only a short ten years ago I followed a pathway up through bush and climbed onto the surface of Fox Glacier, my crampons in place as I carefully followed my guide and wandered across the ice. I was lucky enough to explore crevasses and large ice caves. Alas the glacier has receded a fair distance since that time and can only now be walked on from the said helicopter tours. The same applies at Franz Josef which is the most popular of both the glaciers apparently due it being slightly steeper than Fox and with larger ice caves, although I suspect that it might be just the fact that is it the first glacier you come to as you make your way down the West Coast. None of this should put you off a visit to the longer Fox Glacier though – enjoy the fewer visitors.

Walking through a glacial valley to the terminal for Franz Josef

Both glaciers are home to small townships bearing their names. Alike the Glaciers both are quite different in personality – Franz is lively and bustling (well as close to bustling as you can get on the West Coast) whilst Fox is its lazier, sleepier little brother. They both have some excellent outdoor activities to enjoy though and some good accommodation options.
At Franz Josef you can still take a hike to the glacier terminal. I’ve taken a guided walk through the valley to the glacier and been fortunate enough to learn all about the landscape and geology of the glacier. The pathway takes you beside and across an old river bed that was formed as the ice melted and the glacier resided. The geology of the area is quite remarkable and although you can walk from the car park on your own it is worth taking a guided trip to discover and learn so much more.

Back at Franz Josef village you have the option off an adrenaline rush or some much deserved R&R. Quad Biking here is awesome as you are guided across a dried-up river bed and glimpse some epic views of the glacial valley all around - be prepared though to get very muddy. The Glacier Hot Pools offer a more tranquil alternative after a busy day. The steaming pools positioned within the rainforest are just the tonic to revive weary limbs. For an even more relaxing experience book one of their private pools which will not disappoint.

Fox Glacier Village

Further down the road in Fox Village (the drive alone down the highway is worthy of a trip) the attractions are more natural and further spread out. Take a trip to Lake Matheson about 6km out of town. It takes about 1 ½ hours to circuit the lake and on a clear day you are rewarded with some incredible views of the Southern Alps reflected in the lake’s clear waters. There is also an excellent café by the car park that offers some great kiwi fare – make sure you call in for at least a coffee and slice, and I highly recommend the breakfasts.
Continue down the same road you have traversed for Lake Matheson (it’s not hard there aren’t many roads in this area), and you will eventually come to the coast and Gillespie’s Beach. This used to be an old mining settlement but now is a windswept sandy retreat. You can camp here but watch out for those sand-flies that are venomous in this area. The best reason to call here though is to follow the 3 ½ hour return walk to even remoter Galway Beach – the walk is great, the beach even better. Seals have adopted this sandy stretch as their own and you will spot several hanging out as you make your way along.

Seal beach on the West Coast

Fox Glacier township offers many motel style options and the Last Kitchen is a worthy spot to spend an evening. Franz Josef though does win the overnight battle. There are some top spots to stay at including 58 on Cron, a stylish motel and the Rainforest Retreat which has a terrific bar called Monsoon on site that is generally packed to the rafters.
My next blog will uncover Okarito and its amazing Kiwi spotting tours just a short drive north of Franz Josef.

A morning driving a sled dog team - dreams do come true

I’d arranged to meet up with Underdog NZ at 10.30am at the Snow Farm to start my tour. After a brief talk about what to expect I was taken across to meet the dogs, and what a greeting it was. It seems the dogs absolutely love these tours and get incredibly excited about it all. I was smothered in doggy loves very quickly. There were a mixture of Alaskan Huskies, Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes all keen to get started. My human guide gave me a brief outline on how to use the kart and a demonstration on how to control the dogs – yeah right, it was more the dogs controlling me I think, and we were all set up and ready to go. I started off cautious, pressing the break to check it was working and trying my hardest not to tangle up the reigns. Four animated and eager dogs were ready to pull me along and I was a bit nervous at first in case I fell off!!! The snow was smooth but compacted and I had visions of being dragged along on my stomach by four excited animals. My concerns didn’t last for long, well only until my hands could no longer cope with the discomfort of gripping on so tightly! Within a few minutes I was riding the cart like a professional – well in my opinion anyway - and we were off soaring across the snow-covered landscape as one. Well maybe not quite. I had to get off on any upwards slope to take the pressure off my four-legged friends and help push the cart. I also spent a significant amount of time trying not to get them all tangled together so that the back two didn’t trip over the front twos’ reigns – there was a lot of responsibility looking after these keen racers! None of this distracted from the sheer joy of directing my dogs as we ploughed across the snow. The setting was majestic with the perfect clear blue skies reflecting off the brilliant white of our snow-covered carpet. It was a truly memorable moment in time.

Dan and I attempting to be in charge of 4 four legged bosses! Yeah right…..

Reluctantly I drew up to where I had started and had to discard our cart. The fun didn’t stop there though as now it was time for doggy pats and treats as my new best friends were rewarded for their endeavours and sheer hard work in dragging someone as clumsy as me along. I was allowed to spend as much time as I wanted with my new mates and soon learnt the names and mannerisms of most of them. I was also rewarded with puppy cuddles as two new members of the team were taken out of their kennels and introduced to me.

Dan enjoying lots of cuddles after the race.

I returned to the lodge brimmed with enthusiasm and chuffed to bits. There are lots of other options to take in here with snow shoe routes laid out and cross-country ski-ing lessons available. I was personally exhausted so settled for a warming hot chocolate from the bar upstairs with great views across the ski field and
beyond. Underdog offer night runs and even overnight stays – I will undoubtedly be back…