Ideas for taking time out in lovely quaint Akaroa

Akaroa is a seaside village on the Bank’s Peninsula. It’s name means long harbour and the water is definitely the prime reason for most peoples visits here. Whether this is to get out on the water to boat and fish, in the water to swim with the local pod of dolphins or literally just paddle by the beach or on a paddle board.

Paddle boarding in Akaroa Harbour

Akaroa was partially settled by the French (after some confusion and agreement with the British) and their influence is visible in the town still today. Street signs and lighting is in the French style, lots of place names are French and there is even a French cemetery to visit. For a small place it has a lot going for it, with a lovely waterfront promenade to enjoy, a small yet attractive beach and numerous jetties from which to launch boats. Trips leave daily for nature tours, swimming with the world’s smallest Hectors Dolphins (a pod live within and around the harbour), fishing and sailing. There are kayaks to hire which I highly recommend. On a warm day there is nothing better than making your way around the harbour edges, spotting local seabirds.

The town itself has an array of accommodation options, some waterside whilst others offer bush or sea views. The café / restaurant / bar options in town are numerous, including a former toilet block that has been converted into a bar overlooking the beach.

There are plenty of balconies from which to take in the views in Akaroa

he town butchers is one of the very best in New Zealand – it has an array of options if you are looking to self-cater – choose from some award winning sausages, local Akaroa salmon or even homemade lasagna. Whatever you do though don’t miss out on the fish and chips – there are two outlets in Akaroa, both being excellent. The one on the waterfront is a top spot as proven by the queue often stretching outside the door. Whilst Murphy’s positioned just behind the main through fare on a corner serves up only fish caught that morning.

There is a cooking school that offers regular classes with cuisine choices from around the world and a small native bush area to stroll through and if you are lucky listen to the bellbirds and tui chorus. A short walk further up from the town is the Akaroa lighthouse. It is open on Sunday afternoons to explore, but otherwise the views across the harbour are reward enough for the short stroll around to it – I’ve even spotted a couple of dolphins from this spot making their way across the harbour.

The views are equally splendid from the water too….

The weekend road trip through the middle of the South Island

They say life is about the journey not just the destination and to be honest  this could also be said about the drive through the centre of New Zealand’s south Island.

Beginning on the long straight plains through Canterbury you pass endless farmland complete with sheep, cattle and water pivots as you head across to the lofty heights of the Southern Alps, the mountain range that splits the island into two. The Southern Alps stretch most of the length of the South Island and divide it into separate parts, the east which tends to be on the dry side, and the west which is to say the least is very wet. It’s quite a distinction.

Who doesn’t love a road trip when the sun’s out…

The small town of Geraldine is the first noticeable stopping point on this epic adventure. It’s a great little place, a service town for all the neighbouring farms, a tourist stopping off point on the journey from Christchurch through to the mountains, and yet still manages to maintain its own vibrant personality. Barkers, the New Zealand jam and sauce manufacturers, are based here (you will see their products in every supermarket) and have a lively café to enjoy a coffee and a few treats. It’s light and airy with windows opening up to a garden area at the back. There is also my personal favourite, Verde, a local café which never fails to offer great breakfast and lunch options whether from the menu or the counter. In summertime perch yourself in one of their garden seats or on the sunny veranda.

 As you journey onwards from Geraldine the scenery begins to change, you will notice more hills and slopes appearing. The road changes from long and straight to more winding, climbing up over forest areas and past mountain streams. After a while you reach Fairlie, the gateway to the Mackenzie country. It’s also the home to one of New Zealand’s favourite pie shops – and that is saying a lot as pies are a big deal over here. Fairlie Bakehouse is always busy – they have a daily selection of pies written up on their blackboard – all our good but the most popular are probably their salmon and back and the pork with apple scratching.

Suitably sauted from your Fairlie pie it’s best to be on your way down the road, passing small settlements such as Burkes Pass, which has a quirky feel to it, complete with wild west style shops. Unknowingly you are slowly climbing upwards towards those mountains. At the side of the road there are signs indicating turn offs for ski areas. Pull offs are available along straight stretches of the highway to take much south after snaps of the snowy peaks ahead on a clear day.

The Mackenzie Region, the scenery becomes more dramatic as you approach the Southern Alps

The next highlight is Lake Tekapo which will follow soon…….

Best places to stay in Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Village - that don't involve camping

Let’s face it there isn’t a lot of choice in this resort style village which is basically a base for exploring the stunning national park area. Whilst everyone visits here for the epic alpine scenery and to get out into the great outdoors, it’s still important to have a comfortable place to stay for the night, right? And somewhere good to eat or indeed cook for oneself?

Now for the nitty gritty, the accommodation here isn’t cheap. It’s a lot more expensive than what you would pay down the road in Twizel. But then when I say down the road, it’s all relative as Twizel is a considerable drive down a lengthy highway. It’s over 50km from Mt Cook Village to the main turn off. That’s a pretty long way especially in winter time when snow often blankets the edges of the highway. This journey though is phenomenal and anyone would be a fool to miss it – indeed it’s the only possible way to arrive at the village except by helicopter. I will discuss this in a separate blog coming shortly…….

Whilst I digress somewhat from the accommodation offerings what I am trying to say is that staying in Mt Cook Village is probably a really good idea if you want to see this area properly rather then cram it all in. And hey in all honesty who doesn’t want to see the sun set on the towering peaks of Aoraki?

So, to that accommodation, The Hermitage is the largest and most popular option in town. It’s the first thing you notice on arrival, well apart from those mountains of course. It’s positioned to offer guests a colossal view from all its floor to ceiling windows. It’s worth staying here as it’s home to numerous activities and eatery options. There is a planetarium, a 3D theatre and even a museum dedicated to Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man confirmed to have climbed Everest.

Top Tip: when staying at The Hermitage it’s worth paying extra for an alpine view room – talk about picture perfect.

My second recommendation in town is Aoraki Mt Cook Alpine Lodge. Positioned close to The Hermitage this place is family run, super-efficient and offers that same incredible view from most of the rooms as The Hermitage. They even have a guest lounge complete with log burner fire and fully equipped kitchen to cook your own meals. Rooms here are a mix of studios, family rooms and even bunks.

My final selection is the Aoraki Court Motel which is a little bit more luxurious than most of the accommodation options. Although you do tend to pay for it too – in peak season this place can charge some eye watering rates. However, if you can find a deal, snap it up as it really is a top spot to stay at – the rooms are large, extremely comfortable and have those required exceptional views. It’s also close-by to a pleasant bush walk and other facilities in the resort.

Coming soon the best day walks in Aoraki and Tekapo

Biking the Little River Rail Trail in Canterbury, South Island New Zealand

Hiking and biking are two of my favourite outdoor activities.
They are easy to combine on a weekend and one of the best places is Little
River on the Banks Peninsula. There are some easily accessible Department of
Conservation walks in this area and the Little River Rail Trail is one of the
best mountain bike tracks in the country.

The Trail covers nearly 50km of mainly off-road biking following, as you can probably guess, an old rail line from southern suburbs of Christchurch to Little River township. It can be broken down into easy manageable sections or enjoyed in one go – although if you aren’t a seasoned biker you will probably suffer sore calves if you do attempt this! Beware! It is all nicely flat though, which is a plus,
and takes you through some magnificent countryside so there are plenty of places to stop off at, rest, and enjoy the scenery and serenity.  I have biked the trail a few times and one of my favourite parts is from the small town of Lincoln to Motukarara. This part does include some roadway negotiation, but it is so quiet and you tend to get distracted by all the sheep and horses in the fields, the Pukeko and paradise shell ducks that are abundant around here. Part of the trail traverses alongside the river and a new wetland has recently been developed by some keen locals eager to return the adopted farmland to its former habitat. There are signs telling you all about this initiative and it quite inspiring to witness
at first hand all the hard work and dedication. Over the next few years, as the
plants grow, and birds return it will be a pretty special place for all to
enjoy.

Another recommended an enjoyable part of the track is from
Motukarara to Kaituna Quarry Reserve. Look behind you and you have the splendour of the Southern Alps mountain range in full view on a clear day. Beside you is Lake Ellesmere, an inland saltwater lake cut off from the sea by the Kaitorete Spit. The lake and all it’s wetlands and overflows, including Kaikuna Lagoon are home to literally thousands of birds. Up to 98,000 can be hanging out here at any one time! Often as I cycle along the raised track, I spot grey herons standing tall and proud on fence posts. In the wetlands are families of Australian Black Swans who raise their young in these sheltered waters. In Springtime the ponds at the side of the track are home to mother ducks with their tribe of little ducklings innocently negotiating the reeds and bushes. There are often some unusual birds to be found here that I would in all honestly struggle to name, but if you enjoy wildlife and nature it’s an excellent part of the track to explore and linger.

My third and last recommended section is the part encompassing Birdlings Flat to Little River township itself. Birdlings Flat is a vast stone covered beach that is pounded constantly by the unforgiving and slightly mercilious Pacific Ocean. With its crumbling cliffs at one end and seemingly endless expanse at the other it is both atmospheric, wild and beautiful. Fishermen love it here and there is a constant trail of eager anglers keen to make a catch just off the beach. Little River reached by following the rail trail along the banks of Lake Forsyth from Birdlings Flat along the floor of the rolling hills of Prices Valley is a small settlement which is usually a stop off-point for those travelling further on around the peninsula. It has an excellent café, fuel stop, art gallery and even an American Diner. If you are keen enough to tackle the trail in one fell swoop it has the unique Silo Stay to spend the night – hay silos have been converted into stylish hotel units, there is even a place to hang your bike!

Once you have begun your exploration of the area, providing
you still have enough energy in those legs after your bike ride – which along
this trail has a habit of being longer than you expect it to be as you simply
can’t help gazing ahead of yourself despite your legs screaming at you to stop –
you will be keen to go off road altogether and follow one of the walking tracks
into the bush and countryside. The track I would recommend for a day walk would be the Okuiti Track. It’s quite a climb but once you reach the upper areas you are rewarded with some truly splendid awe-inspiring views.

Snowball fights in Mt Cook National Park

There is nothing like a road trip through the mountains when it’s winter time, when a snow blanket coats not only the peaks of New Zealand’s mightiest mountain range but also the frost bitten ground. Even glacial rubble looks pretty with a layer of white glittering snow smothering it. Mount Cook or Aoraki is the name given not only to this national park but the village residing in it. A resort town it consists mainly of places to stay and eat whilst The Hermitage, the area’s largest hotel, offers everything from a gift shop, museum to planetarium. The main reason to visit this national park though is to get out and explore. There are numerous walking tracks a short distance from the village. Head out to Lake Tasman and the Tasman Glacier. The lake was formed only a few years ago as the glacier slowly resided. At all times of year huge chunks of ice can be seen floating down the lake as they gradually break up having chipped off from the glaciers terminal (or end point). It’s quite a sight to see. Follow the track down to the lakeside where there is a makeshift jetty. This is used by the small boats that take tourist groups out across the lake to get close up views of the ice burgs and of course at the lakes far end, the glacier itself. I was more adventuress than this and opted instead to join a guided kayak around the lake. The water is a grim grey colour and although it doesn’t look very appealing it is just melted ice, and therefore the purest water you are likely to find. The murky colour is just a result of rock salt built up over years in the glacial ice. I gulped a few mouthfuls as I kayaked across the water. There were a number of ice burgs floating down the lake for my visit, I was told they were the remains of a big displacement recently. I was able to manoeuvre my kayak around several, careful to not get too close in case some of the ice decided to chip off and make an almighty splash. The colours were brilliant blue and emerald greens and it was difficult to imagine that this ice dated back thousands of years as it had compacted and moved with the glacier. After a generous amount of time spent gawping at these mighty ice cubes we, myself and my guide made our way down the lake to the glacier terminal. We were only allowed within a kilometre of it, again for safely reasons, in case a Tsunamai was triggered across the lake by the breaking of a gigantic slice of ice. To be honest this was more than close enough, especially since it was several kilometres kayak back to the jetty! It is only by being so close and yet so far away that you get to appreciate the sheer scale of the Tasman Glacier. Standing at the viewing platform which you can easily climb up to from the pathway to the lake you cannot quite grasp the size. Everything in the area is enormous so why would you possibly be able to comprehend? But sat in a small kayak just in front of this colossal wall of ice gives you another perspective entirely. Everything is epic in scale in this mountainous area of wonderment.

Look out for my next post about the Hooker Valley Walk and where to stay and eat in Aoraki/Mount Cook Village