Ideas for taking time out in lovely quaint Akaroa

Akaroa is a seaside village on the Bank’s Peninsula. It’s name means long harbour and the water is definitely the prime reason for most peoples visits here. Whether this is to get out on the water to boat and fish, in the water to swim with the local pod of dolphins or literally just paddle by the beach or on a paddle board.

Paddle boarding in Akaroa Harbour

Akaroa was partially settled by the French (after some confusion and agreement with the British) and their influence is visible in the town still today. Street signs and lighting is in the French style, lots of place names are French and there is even a French cemetery to visit. For a small place it has a lot going for it, with a lovely waterfront promenade to enjoy, a small yet attractive beach and numerous jetties from which to launch boats. Trips leave daily for nature tours, swimming with the world’s smallest Hectors Dolphins (a pod live within and around the harbour), fishing and sailing. There are kayaks to hire which I highly recommend. On a warm day there is nothing better than making your way around the harbour edges, spotting local seabirds.

The town itself has an array of accommodation options, some waterside whilst others offer bush or sea views. The café / restaurant / bar options in town are numerous, including a former toilet block that has been converted into a bar overlooking the beach.

There are plenty of balconies from which to take in the views in Akaroa

he town butchers is one of the very best in New Zealand – it has an array of options if you are looking to self-cater – choose from some award winning sausages, local Akaroa salmon or even homemade lasagna. Whatever you do though don’t miss out on the fish and chips – there are two outlets in Akaroa, both being excellent. The one on the waterfront is a top spot as proven by the queue often stretching outside the door. Whilst Murphy’s positioned just behind the main through fare on a corner serves up only fish caught that morning.

There is a cooking school that offers regular classes with cuisine choices from around the world and a small native bush area to stroll through and if you are lucky listen to the bellbirds and tui chorus. A short walk further up from the town is the Akaroa lighthouse. It is open on Sunday afternoons to explore, but otherwise the views across the harbour are reward enough for the short stroll around to it – I’ve even spotted a couple of dolphins from this spot making their way across the harbour.

The views are equally splendid from the water too….

The weekend road trip through the middle of the South Island

They say life is about the journey not just the destination and to be honest  this could also be said about the drive through the centre of New Zealand’s south Island.

Beginning on the long straight plains through Canterbury you pass endless farmland complete with sheep, cattle and water pivots as you head across to the lofty heights of the Southern Alps, the mountain range that splits the island into two. The Southern Alps stretch most of the length of the South Island and divide it into separate parts, the east which tends to be on the dry side, and the west which is to say the least is very wet. It’s quite a distinction.

Who doesn’t love a road trip when the sun’s out…

The small town of Geraldine is the first noticeable stopping point on this epic adventure. It’s a great little place, a service town for all the neighbouring farms, a tourist stopping off point on the journey from Christchurch through to the mountains, and yet still manages to maintain its own vibrant personality. Barkers, the New Zealand jam and sauce manufacturers, are based here (you will see their products in every supermarket) and have a lively café to enjoy a coffee and a few treats. It’s light and airy with windows opening up to a garden area at the back. There is also my personal favourite, Verde, a local café which never fails to offer great breakfast and lunch options whether from the menu or the counter. In summertime perch yourself in one of their garden seats or on the sunny veranda.

 As you journey onwards from Geraldine the scenery begins to change, you will notice more hills and slopes appearing. The road changes from long and straight to more winding, climbing up over forest areas and past mountain streams. After a while you reach Fairlie, the gateway to the Mackenzie country. It’s also the home to one of New Zealand’s favourite pie shops – and that is saying a lot as pies are a big deal over here. Fairlie Bakehouse is always busy – they have a daily selection of pies written up on their blackboard – all our good but the most popular are probably their salmon and back and the pork with apple scratching.

Suitably sauted from your Fairlie pie it’s best to be on your way down the road, passing small settlements such as Burkes Pass, which has a quirky feel to it, complete with wild west style shops. Unknowingly you are slowly climbing upwards towards those mountains. At the side of the road there are signs indicating turn offs for ski areas. Pull offs are available along straight stretches of the highway to take much south after snaps of the snowy peaks ahead on a clear day.

The Mackenzie Region, the scenery becomes more dramatic as you approach the Southern Alps

The next highlight is Lake Tekapo which will follow soon…….

Havelock, home of the delicious green lipped mussel and gateway to Marlborough

Havelock is known as the gateway to the Marlbourgh Sounds. It’s also the mussel capital of New Zealand – and that’s quite a claim given how well renowned the green lipped mussels are in this area.

The town itself is neat and compact postioned at the end of one of the sounds. Like many people I had only previously ever driven through it on my way to places. I was always tempted to pull over and try out one of the many eateries along the main highway which offered lunches of the local mussels amongst other temptations. I’d never got around to it though until I hired a campervan to spend the weekend touring the local area. Havelock has a friendly, efficient camp site situated right in the centre of the township. It’s so easy to park up and then get out and explore. The marina is just behind the site and it was much bigger than I imagined. The gateway out into the Sounds it’s a popular spot to launch a boat. The mussel barges also berth here servicing the farms growing in the vast clean waters. You can be absolutely certain that any mussel served here is as fresh as it comes given they are grown just out across the bay.

Havelock Marina, a popular spot on a sunny afternoon

A circuit around the marina and onto the main high street brought me to a number of pubs and cafes offering mussel creations. I opted for the Captains Daughter, a pub built in a traditional manner, the type you would expect to find in an English village with a real fire glowing in the centre to warm the coggles. It wasn’t too chilly though on the winters day I visited and the deck outside was inviting. A large area it was warmed by the weak winters sun. I ordered a glass of local Marlborough sav and the toughest decision was to decide between the steamed or grilled mussels. I opted for grilled in garlic butter and a side portion of chips to complete the meal. It sure was heaven..

Locally caught green lipped mussels served grills from the Captain’s Daughter in Havelock

Havelock is surrounded by bush lined hills rising to meets the sounds, and although the main road to Nelson was just outside the door I failed to notice it.

Just down the road from Havelock is Pelorus. A pull off just before the small one lane bridge takes you into a carpark surrounded by bush. There is access to a campsite and café here. The café is an excellent spot to call off at – their cakes and pies are top notch (yes okay I’ve sampled a few, I confess). To make up for said calorie count are several walks leading off from here that range in lengths - I will discuss all about the local walks in this area in a later blog….. 

Coming up – great camping spots around the South Island

The bush smothered hills surrounding the town of Havelock, gateway to the Marlborough Sounds

Cruising in Cromwell, home to the gold rush of wineries

Cromwell sits in the heart of the Central Otago region. It’s an area synomonous with excellent wines and mouth watering stone fruits. The town was established by gold miners and originally named The Junction. In 1992 the Clyde Dam Power Station was completed and the valley in which Cromwell sits was flooded to create the picturesque Lake Dunston. The original old town of Cromwell now sits under this lake. However some of the buildings were removed prior to the lake being created and have been lovingly restored and are now situated within the Historic Precinct.

Any trip to Cromwell begins with a drive around the lake and past the numerous vineyards that climb the valley walls on each side. Names such as Lowburn, Bannockburn, Bendigo are familiar to anyone with a love of New Zealand’s famous Pinot Noir. The Cromwell Valley is lovely with views everywhere you look. A cycle/walking trail follows the lakeside from the township to Pisa Moorings a settlement a few kilometres away which is home to the Heritage Lakeside Resort - a great place to stay if you desire peace and tranquillity. The rooms here are positioned over the water and you are greeted each morning to the quack of the ducks. The resort has it’s own onsite restaurant and bar and the newly opened ‘Bunker’ is ideal for a pre- dinner drink. It’s just a shame it’s so difficult to find but ask the hotel staff for directions and they will happily guide you there. The room is furnished with saddles and woodworking features with a large open fire place dominating. It’s both cosy and curious in equal measures.

Heritage Lakeside Resort near Cromwell, experience and overwater villa

Cromwell itself seems somewhat light weight on first appearances. Take this with a pinch of salt though. Yes the large plastic fruit are somewhat tacky and the sterile town-centre perhaps lacks the atmosphere of nearby Wanaka or Queenstown, but underneath Cromwell packs a vibe. The nearby Swimming and Fitness centre is the envy of other towns. The sports fields are always buzzing with competitors. The stream flowing through the middle of the pedestrian area gurgles away as shoppers browse the local bookstore, deli and bakery. With fruit trees and vines surrounding the township, and it’s setting alongside the lake-front in the heart of a mountainous valley, Cromwell is truly a wonderful place to while away a few days. There are numerous walking trails and even the opportunity to hire an e-bike from the local visitor centre. A day ride will take you through the valley to neighbouring Clyde – it is on my list to do this summer.

Any trip to the Otago area though must involve visits to wineries. Put simply this is a food and wine lovers paradise. I’ve already mentioned the Pinot Noir but the wineries here are creative and have some excellent sparkling’s, roses and chardonnays to sample. Cromwell itself is home to several wineries. The Four Barrels Walking Trail is a must do. It involves a short walk between 4 of the local wineries, Misha’s, Scott Base, Aurum and Wooing Tree. All offer platters or snacks of some type and each, of course, offers impeccable tastings. Misha’s is in the town surrounded by orchards, perch on one of the stools and allow one of the cellar door staff to talk you though the tastings. Nearby the Wooing Tree is set by a small lake within their own vines. They have seating outside under shady canopies and their platters have to be tried. As does a glass of their legendary ‘blondie’ wine – the ideal sunny summer afternoon tipple. Scott Basin sits up above the valley on its own little platform, again the cellar door is rustic with indoor and outdoor seating. The wine tasting is excellent and they are even the wine providers to the Antarctica Scott Base!

After a couple of wine induced days in Cromwell it’s time to discover it’s partner in crime Bannockburn…. Uncovered in another blog coming very soon……

Following the pathway alongside Lake Dunston

A day out in Akaroa, New Zealand's little slice of French paradis

The drive to Akaroa across the rugged hills of the Banks Peninsula is worthy of a day trip in its own right. There are two routes – a tourist route high above the peninsula which offers great views and turns offs to some of the regions most remote beaches – and the main route
(when I say main it’s all relative) which takes you through small townships and pass pretty bays.

This blog though is about Akaroa itself and I will focus on the two memorable journeys to get there in a later article.

Akaroa is a small seaside settlement set in an idealyic location at the end of a long harbour bearing the same name. It has a French feel to it with French street names and Parisian style signs. The story is that the French originally thought they had agreed with local Maori to
inhabit the area only to find on their return that the British has claimed the area for themselves following the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. However, the French that did arrive where invited to stay and their influence on the area is still felt today.

Akaroa is a pretty place to just wander around, there are a couple of beaches to enjoy and an historic lighthouse. As you walk along the waterside boardwalk there are numerous cafes and restaurants to enjoy with pavement seating if the weather is good. There is even a
waterside bar (Harbar) which has been developed from the old toilet block!
Paddle boards can be hired from the beach and a little further around the bay
there are kayaks and paddle boats available.

If you venture to Akaroa though  (and please do) the main incentive is to get out onto the water. There are several boat trips to choose from and all take in the gorgeous harbour (Akaroa actually means long harbour) and seek out the resident Hector Dolphins that frequently inhabit the bay. Hectors are the worlds smallest dolphins and stand out due to their rounded dorsal fin. Several of the operators allow  swimming with the dolphins if the conditions are right. The boat trips come in all shapes and sizes so it’s entirely up to you which you select. The one with the dog spotting dolphin is recommended though….how could you possibly resist?

After an exhausting fun packed day out on the harbour it’s worth indulging in some fish and chips and this is something Akaroa does well. There are two options – Akaroa Fish and Chips which is situated on the seafront and often has a queue spilling out the door, or Murphys which is tucked away down a side street. Blue cod is most likely available at the first option and it is very good, but Murphy’s actually catch their own fish daily. So your choice is what has been caught by their fishermen that morning! Murphys  has a kiosk on the main wharf which is popular in the summer months. There is also a caravan serving delicious pizza back on the main shopping street in summertime – if he’s open you’ll spot his sign outside – the salmon pizza is a must try, as is the standard Margaretia.

As night falls the options in this small town keep coming. You can choose to join one of the excellent trips to the family farm over the headland in Pohatu. The beach here is called Flea Bay and its home to the most successful colony of little blue penguins to be found in all of Australasia. The evening tour starts at dusk as the little penguins begin returning to their nests after a day out fishing. You can easily spot them returning from the sea and if your lucky you will spot a few in their nests. They are quite territorial and will soon warn you if they don’t want you close, one actually tried to peck me when I crouched down for a closer look! Another of the boxes opened by my guide revealed two youngsters eagerly awaiting their parents return. The guides use the tours to monitor the many boxes. It is a truly wonderful tour as you learn about the penguins and the farms owners who have done so much for conservation in this area. The scenery you encounter isn’t too bad either. They also run day trips and offer guided kayaking tours.

Another must try after dark activity for the adventuress is NightSUP paddle boarding. LED lights are fitted under the boards so that the sea water beneath is lit up to reveal all the underwater activity. It is a magical sight. There are huge stingrays that inhabit the shallow waters and are often spotted underneath the paddle boards.

Akaroa is also home to a popular cooking school. It’s worth checking out their timetable to see what availability there is for attending one of their courses. They offer many different types depending on taste, so you can indulgence in Italian, Spanish or even Asian cuisine.
They all come with excellent reviews and who doesn’t love an afternoon wineing and dining.

Of course there are many other things to try in Akaroa and it might be worth extending your stay. Excellent accommodation options can be found in the area. One of my own favourites is
slightly out of town at Onuku Farm Hostel which offer Star Gazers - small tent shape huts with glass panels above your head – you can well and truly star gaze here on clear evenings. Another top spot is at the Pohatu Penguin colony where you can stay overnight and fall asleep to the sound of penguin chatter. If you wish to stay in Akaroa itself I would recommend the Criterion Motel.

A few snaps from our time in Akaroa. Star Gazing, paddle boarding and penguin spotting…..