The weekend road trip through the middle of the South Island

They say life is about the journey not just the destination and to be honest  this could also be said about the drive through the centre of New Zealand’s south Island.

Beginning on the long straight plains through Canterbury you pass endless farmland complete with sheep, cattle and water pivots as you head across to the lofty heights of the Southern Alps, the mountain range that splits the island into two. The Southern Alps stretch most of the length of the South Island and divide it into separate parts, the east which tends to be on the dry side, and the west which is to say the least is very wet. It’s quite a distinction.

Who doesn’t love a road trip when the sun’s out…

The small town of Geraldine is the first noticeable stopping point on this epic adventure. It’s a great little place, a service town for all the neighbouring farms, a tourist stopping off point on the journey from Christchurch through to the mountains, and yet still manages to maintain its own vibrant personality. Barkers, the New Zealand jam and sauce manufacturers, are based here (you will see their products in every supermarket) and have a lively café to enjoy a coffee and a few treats. It’s light and airy with windows opening up to a garden area at the back. There is also my personal favourite, Verde, a local café which never fails to offer great breakfast and lunch options whether from the menu or the counter. In summertime perch yourself in one of their garden seats or on the sunny veranda.

 As you journey onwards from Geraldine the scenery begins to change, you will notice more hills and slopes appearing. The road changes from long and straight to more winding, climbing up over forest areas and past mountain streams. After a while you reach Fairlie, the gateway to the Mackenzie country. It’s also the home to one of New Zealand’s favourite pie shops – and that is saying a lot as pies are a big deal over here. Fairlie Bakehouse is always busy – they have a daily selection of pies written up on their blackboard – all our good but the most popular are probably their salmon and back and the pork with apple scratching.

Suitably sauted from your Fairlie pie it’s best to be on your way down the road, passing small settlements such as Burkes Pass, which has a quirky feel to it, complete with wild west style shops. Unknowingly you are slowly climbing upwards towards those mountains. At the side of the road there are signs indicating turn offs for ski areas. Pull offs are available along straight stretches of the highway to take much south after snaps of the snowy peaks ahead on a clear day.

The Mackenzie Region, the scenery becomes more dramatic as you approach the Southern Alps

The next highlight is Lake Tekapo which will follow soon…….

Milford Sound, a nature cruise on the wild side

Although it cannot be overstated enough that any visit to Milford Sound is as much about the drive as it is about the destination, please don’t underestimate the destination. Milford Sound was claimed to be the 8th wonder of the world and after any visit it’s very difficult to argue with this. I’ve been to this incredible place three times now and still feel overwhelmed by its splendour on every visit.

Magnificent, yet moody, Milford Sound is an epic experience

At first glance on arrival, after you have ventured through so much epic scenery on the road, it is easy to feel a little underwhelmed. The village at Milford has little to show for it, with a few buildings and an oversized car park. There is also the boat terminal which is on the large side to accommodate all the tours that depart from here. But if you take a moment and peer out towards the water your breath can be quite literally taken from you – Mitre Peak rising out of any lingering cloud dominates the scene and is the picture postcard image for Milford Sound.

If you journey all the way to Milford you must head out on the water. A boat trip is a necessity to grasp the sheer length of the sound itself but there is also a great kayaking trip to experience. I will come to this option in a later blog as the sunrise kayak is a special day out. This blog will focus only on the cruise. With several options to choose from (all largely following the same route) I joined a Nature Cruise with Southern Discoveries onboard one of their catamarans. I decided on this as the cruise left at 10.30am before any of the day trips and coach parties travelling down from Queenstown could arrive. It had been raining hard that morning but was only drizzling once we boarded the boat itself which was a good thing – you need water at Milford to get a glimpse of all those majestic waterfalls that plunge down from the huge cliff faces all around, but it’s not too much fun getting soaked to the skin as you try to photograph them. You also don’t want too much low cloud hanging around as this obscures the tops of the mighty peaks and prevents you from grasping the sheer scale of the place.

The boat terminal at Milford Sound

Trying to grasp this size is so difficult until you spot another tour boat out on the water (there was a grand total of three throughout the whole Sound on my visit) and can take that magical shot of the boat looking so small up against the waterfall and the mountain – nature is mega here.

The Milford Mariner just below Sterling Falls, one of the waterfalls at Milford Sound

The journey out through the length of the Sound enabled us to absorb it’s length and awe inspiring beauty. In some parts trees and shrubs grow out of the sheer rock face and there are a couple of waterfalls that continue to plunge down even when it hasn’t rained. The Sound is home to a pod of bottlenose dolphins that we didn’t spot on my cruise, but we were fortunate to spy some New Zealand fur seals – young males who hang out on the rocks and peer at you with mild curiosity. I also witnessed a very rare Fiordland penguin leaping through the glassy smooth waters surface. At Harrison Cove, the site for the first ever settlement in these parts, and now the spot for the overnight trips to berth, we paused for a moment to appreciate the peace – a place hardly touch by humanity, with little sound except the ripple of the water and the breath of wind through the trees.

As our boat made it’s slow journey back to the Milford Sound terminal I took one last look around – there are some special places out there, to be left as nature intended.

Coming shortly, the amazing drive to Milford Sound…….

Resting up in Te Anau, gateway to Fiordland National Park

Te Anau is essentially a service town, for all the local farmers and tourist operators in the surrounding area. It’s also an excellent base for visitors keen to explore the Fiordlands. It's the gateway to several of New Zealand's Great Walks, Kepler, Milford and Routeburn.

The lake front at Te Anau

The town is attractive, situated alongside the lake front, with a wide high street offering an array of shops, bars and restaurants. The lakeside itself is awash with motels, backpackers and hotel accommodations. There are wharfs for boat trips (there are sightseeing trips along the lake, water taxis that take you to drop off points for accessing the Great Walks, such as Kepler and Milford, and even a boat that takes you over the lake to spy some glow worms hidden in a cave only accessible by water - check out the Real Journey's website). There are also helicopter and seaplane trips departing from this area offering unforgettable trips over the Fiordland National Park - check out Southern Lakes Helicopters and Wings & Water.

Te Anau is the perfect stop over point for access to Fiordland National Park, the views aren’t too bad either….

The town is home to a couple of useful supermarkets. The bakery offers good sandwiches and tasty slices to tide you over on one of your many excursions into the great outdoors. My favourite coffee spot in town is Sandfly café, it’s usually packed full of locals which is always a good sign. There are tables out on the front lawn under some shady tree branches. The coffee is great, as are the Southland cheese rolls (a south island speciality and essential to try) and the homemade venison pies. Don’t miss out on a tasty treat from the counter for afters., you won't regret it.

On an evening there are several bars and restaurants buzzing with people returning from a great adventure. My favourites are The Fat Duck and The Redcliff. The Black Dog Bar is the most sophisticated spot for a drink, they even serve their own wine and beer, and be sure to check out the cinema next door.

Look out for my guide to the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary and Manapouri coming very soon….

Accommodation

options for places to stay in Te Anau coming shortly….

Glacier Express

Well not exactly glacier express, but these two, Franz Josef and Fox, are amongst the most easily accessible glaciers to be found throughout the world. They are also the only glaciers that descend so closely to the sea. Although steadily retreating it is still possible to take Heli hikes to traverse the glacier surface at both
Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Only a short ten years ago I followed a pathway up through bush and climbed onto the surface of Fox Glacier, my crampons in place as I carefully followed my guide and wandered across the ice. I was lucky enough to explore crevasses and large ice caves. Alas the glacier has receded a fair distance since that time and can only now be walked on from the said helicopter tours. The same applies at Franz Josef which is the most popular of both the glaciers apparently due it being slightly steeper than Fox and with larger ice caves, although I suspect that it might be just the fact that is it the first glacier you come to as you make your way down the West Coast. None of this should put you off a visit to the longer Fox Glacier though – enjoy the fewer visitors.

Walking through a glacial valley to the terminal for Franz Josef

Both glaciers are home to small townships bearing their names. Alike the Glaciers both are quite different in personality – Franz is lively and bustling (well as close to bustling as you can get on the West Coast) whilst Fox is its lazier, sleepier little brother. They both have some excellent outdoor activities to enjoy though and some good accommodation options.
At Franz Josef you can still take a hike to the glacier terminal. I’ve taken a guided walk through the valley to the glacier and been fortunate enough to learn all about the landscape and geology of the glacier. The pathway takes you beside and across an old river bed that was formed as the ice melted and the glacier resided. The geology of the area is quite remarkable and although you can walk from the car park on your own it is worth taking a guided trip to discover and learn so much more.

Back at Franz Josef village you have the option off an adrenaline rush or some much deserved R&R. Quad Biking here is awesome as you are guided across a dried-up river bed and glimpse some epic views of the glacial valley all around - be prepared though to get very muddy. The Glacier Hot Pools offer a more tranquil alternative after a busy day. The steaming pools positioned within the rainforest are just the tonic to revive weary limbs. For an even more relaxing experience book one of their private pools which will not disappoint.

Fox Glacier Village

Further down the road in Fox Village (the drive alone down the highway is worthy of a trip) the attractions are more natural and further spread out. Take a trip to Lake Matheson about 6km out of town. It takes about 1 ½ hours to circuit the lake and on a clear day you are rewarded with some incredible views of the Southern Alps reflected in the lake’s clear waters. There is also an excellent café by the car park that offers some great kiwi fare – make sure you call in for at least a coffee and slice, and I highly recommend the breakfasts.
Continue down the same road you have traversed for Lake Matheson (it’s not hard there aren’t many roads in this area), and you will eventually come to the coast and Gillespie’s Beach. This used to be an old mining settlement but now is a windswept sandy retreat. You can camp here but watch out for those sand-flies that are venomous in this area. The best reason to call here though is to follow the 3 ½ hour return walk to even remoter Galway Beach – the walk is great, the beach even better. Seals have adopted this sandy stretch as their own and you will spot several hanging out as you make your way along.

Seal beach on the West Coast

Fox Glacier township offers many motel style options and the Last Kitchen is a worthy spot to spend an evening. Franz Josef though does win the overnight battle. There are some top spots to stay at including 58 on Cron, a stylish motel and the Rainforest Retreat which has a terrific bar called Monsoon on site that is generally packed to the rafters.
My next blog will uncover Okarito and its amazing Kiwi spotting tours just a short drive north of Franz Josef.

Best places to stay in Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Village - that don't involve camping

Let’s face it there isn’t a lot of choice in this resort style village which is basically a base for exploring the stunning national park area. Whilst everyone visits here for the epic alpine scenery and to get out into the great outdoors, it’s still important to have a comfortable place to stay for the night, right? And somewhere good to eat or indeed cook for oneself?

Now for the nitty gritty, the accommodation here isn’t cheap. It’s a lot more expensive than what you would pay down the road in Twizel. But then when I say down the road, it’s all relative as Twizel is a considerable drive down a lengthy highway. It’s over 50km from Mt Cook Village to the main turn off. That’s a pretty long way especially in winter time when snow often blankets the edges of the highway. This journey though is phenomenal and anyone would be a fool to miss it – indeed it’s the only possible way to arrive at the village except by helicopter. I will discuss this in a separate blog coming shortly…….

Whilst I digress somewhat from the accommodation offerings what I am trying to say is that staying in Mt Cook Village is probably a really good idea if you want to see this area properly rather then cram it all in. And hey in all honesty who doesn’t want to see the sun set on the towering peaks of Aoraki?

So, to that accommodation, The Hermitage is the largest and most popular option in town. It’s the first thing you notice on arrival, well apart from those mountains of course. It’s positioned to offer guests a colossal view from all its floor to ceiling windows. It’s worth staying here as it’s home to numerous activities and eatery options. There is a planetarium, a 3D theatre and even a museum dedicated to Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man confirmed to have climbed Everest.

Top Tip: when staying at The Hermitage it’s worth paying extra for an alpine view room – talk about picture perfect.

My second recommendation in town is Aoraki Mt Cook Alpine Lodge. Positioned close to The Hermitage this place is family run, super-efficient and offers that same incredible view from most of the rooms as The Hermitage. They even have a guest lounge complete with log burner fire and fully equipped kitchen to cook your own meals. Rooms here are a mix of studios, family rooms and even bunks.

My final selection is the Aoraki Court Motel which is a little bit more luxurious than most of the accommodation options. Although you do tend to pay for it too – in peak season this place can charge some eye watering rates. However, if you can find a deal, snap it up as it really is a top spot to stay at – the rooms are large, extremely comfortable and have those required exceptional views. It’s also close-by to a pleasant bush walk and other facilities in the resort.

Coming soon the best day walks in Aoraki and Tekapo

Biking the Little River Rail Trail in Canterbury, South Island New Zealand

Hiking and biking are two of my favourite outdoor activities.
They are easy to combine on a weekend and one of the best places is Little
River on the Banks Peninsula. There are some easily accessible Department of
Conservation walks in this area and the Little River Rail Trail is one of the
best mountain bike tracks in the country.

The Trail covers nearly 50km of mainly off-road biking following, as you can probably guess, an old rail line from southern suburbs of Christchurch to Little River township. It can be broken down into easy manageable sections or enjoyed in one go – although if you aren’t a seasoned biker you will probably suffer sore calves if you do attempt this! Beware! It is all nicely flat though, which is a plus,
and takes you through some magnificent countryside so there are plenty of places to stop off at, rest, and enjoy the scenery and serenity.  I have biked the trail a few times and one of my favourite parts is from the small town of Lincoln to Motukarara. This part does include some roadway negotiation, but it is so quiet and you tend to get distracted by all the sheep and horses in the fields, the Pukeko and paradise shell ducks that are abundant around here. Part of the trail traverses alongside the river and a new wetland has recently been developed by some keen locals eager to return the adopted farmland to its former habitat. There are signs telling you all about this initiative and it quite inspiring to witness
at first hand all the hard work and dedication. Over the next few years, as the
plants grow, and birds return it will be a pretty special place for all to
enjoy.

Another recommended an enjoyable part of the track is from
Motukarara to Kaituna Quarry Reserve. Look behind you and you have the splendour of the Southern Alps mountain range in full view on a clear day. Beside you is Lake Ellesmere, an inland saltwater lake cut off from the sea by the Kaitorete Spit. The lake and all it’s wetlands and overflows, including Kaikuna Lagoon are home to literally thousands of birds. Up to 98,000 can be hanging out here at any one time! Often as I cycle along the raised track, I spot grey herons standing tall and proud on fence posts. In the wetlands are families of Australian Black Swans who raise their young in these sheltered waters. In Springtime the ponds at the side of the track are home to mother ducks with their tribe of little ducklings innocently negotiating the reeds and bushes. There are often some unusual birds to be found here that I would in all honestly struggle to name, but if you enjoy wildlife and nature it’s an excellent part of the track to explore and linger.

My third and last recommended section is the part encompassing Birdlings Flat to Little River township itself. Birdlings Flat is a vast stone covered beach that is pounded constantly by the unforgiving and slightly mercilious Pacific Ocean. With its crumbling cliffs at one end and seemingly endless expanse at the other it is both atmospheric, wild and beautiful. Fishermen love it here and there is a constant trail of eager anglers keen to make a catch just off the beach. Little River reached by following the rail trail along the banks of Lake Forsyth from Birdlings Flat along the floor of the rolling hills of Prices Valley is a small settlement which is usually a stop off-point for those travelling further on around the peninsula. It has an excellent café, fuel stop, art gallery and even an American Diner. If you are keen enough to tackle the trail in one fell swoop it has the unique Silo Stay to spend the night – hay silos have been converted into stylish hotel units, there is even a place to hang your bike!

Once you have begun your exploration of the area, providing
you still have enough energy in those legs after your bike ride – which along
this trail has a habit of being longer than you expect it to be as you simply
can’t help gazing ahead of yourself despite your legs screaming at you to stop –
you will be keen to go off road altogether and follow one of the walking tracks
into the bush and countryside. The track I would recommend for a day walk would be the Okuiti Track. It’s quite a climb but once you reach the upper areas you are rewarded with some truly splendid awe-inspiring views.

Snowball fights in Mt Cook National Park

There is nothing like a road trip through the mountains when it’s winter time, when a snow blanket coats not only the peaks of New Zealand’s mightiest mountain range but also the frost bitten ground. Even glacial rubble looks pretty with a layer of white glittering snow smothering it. Mount Cook or Aoraki is the name given not only to this national park but the village residing in it. A resort town it consists mainly of places to stay and eat whilst The Hermitage, the area’s largest hotel, offers everything from a gift shop, museum to planetarium. The main reason to visit this national park though is to get out and explore. There are numerous walking tracks a short distance from the village. Head out to Lake Tasman and the Tasman Glacier. The lake was formed only a few years ago as the glacier slowly resided. At all times of year huge chunks of ice can be seen floating down the lake as they gradually break up having chipped off from the glaciers terminal (or end point). It’s quite a sight to see. Follow the track down to the lakeside where there is a makeshift jetty. This is used by the small boats that take tourist groups out across the lake to get close up views of the ice burgs and of course at the lakes far end, the glacier itself. I was more adventuress than this and opted instead to join a guided kayak around the lake. The water is a grim grey colour and although it doesn’t look very appealing it is just melted ice, and therefore the purest water you are likely to find. The murky colour is just a result of rock salt built up over years in the glacial ice. I gulped a few mouthfuls as I kayaked across the water. There were a number of ice burgs floating down the lake for my visit, I was told they were the remains of a big displacement recently. I was able to manoeuvre my kayak around several, careful to not get too close in case some of the ice decided to chip off and make an almighty splash. The colours were brilliant blue and emerald greens and it was difficult to imagine that this ice dated back thousands of years as it had compacted and moved with the glacier. After a generous amount of time spent gawping at these mighty ice cubes we, myself and my guide made our way down the lake to the glacier terminal. We were only allowed within a kilometre of it, again for safely reasons, in case a Tsunamai was triggered across the lake by the breaking of a gigantic slice of ice. To be honest this was more than close enough, especially since it was several kilometres kayak back to the jetty! It is only by being so close and yet so far away that you get to appreciate the sheer scale of the Tasman Glacier. Standing at the viewing platform which you can easily climb up to from the pathway to the lake you cannot quite grasp the size. Everything in the area is enormous so why would you possibly be able to comprehend? But sat in a small kayak just in front of this colossal wall of ice gives you another perspective entirely. Everything is epic in scale in this mountainous area of wonderment.

Look out for my next post about the Hooker Valley Walk and where to stay and eat in Aoraki/Mount Cook Village

A road trip into Mt Aspiring National Park never disappoints

Wanaka is famous for several things, its buzzing atmosphere, its picturesque setting, it’s large lake and it’s famous tree. But what is really inspiring about any road trip to Wanaka is leaving civilisation behind and heading deep into Mt Aspiring National Park.

My first day in Wanaka involved a stroll around the lakefront. I’ve hired a kayak before and taken it across the lake - that is well worth doing - hire of  kayak and paddleboards is usually available on the edge of the lake near the town centre. Today though I just felt like a stroll so headed around past the jetty and marina. absorbing all those picture postcard views.

Top tip: make sure you head down the jetty to peer into the clear waters beneath - there are usually heaps of New Zealand Long Fin Eels swimming around. These eels can live up to 100 years in freshwater before heading out to sea.

The lakeside pathway I was following carries on through woodland and meanders by the lakes eastern reaches. You can carry on all the way to Albert Town if you so wish. As I strolled I spotted shags and herons fishing in the lake water and several fantails tweeted a chorus at me as they grazed on the bugs disturbed by my footprint.

I also strongly recommend walking around the other side of the lake which is an even prettier route to follow (had left from the town) and yes this route does indeed take you past the famous ThatWanakaTree# - its also quite a cool mountain biking track and offers some epic photo opportunities.

Wanaka itself is well worth devoting some time too. It’s home to some excellent cafes and restaurants and some cracking pubs. The Lake Bar is one of my favourites - positioned on the corner it does, as the name suggests, have great lake views. The wine and beers pretty good too… Lots of locals congregate here. A few doors away there is an attractive bar called Alchemy which is apparently good to eat in - I haven’t tried it yet as I’m rather addicted to Francesca’s Italian, a somewhat Wanaka institution that serves fabulous pasta and desserts. Don’t miss their polenta fries for starters either - they are irresistible. Whilst mentioning food in Wanaka I must recommend the scones from the Federal Deli found tucked down a little alleyway off the main street (Helwick Street), they sell out quickly but the cheese and date scones here are from another planet……

The shops in Wanaka all tend to cater for the great outdoors which is hardly surprising given where Wanaka is situated. If you don’t go outdoors here and do some hiking, climbing or cycling there is probably something suspicious about you. Yes, I appreciate I’ve just mentioned some incredible eating and drinking spots (I haven’t even started on the wineries and chocolate shops present nearby, I’ll save those for another day) but you must get out in the outdoors in Wanaka it’s just not negotiable - and just think how good you will feel about tucking in to said food and beverage after a day full of exercise….

So, in keeping with what I’ve just strongly suggested, my start the next day was early - super early. I opened the curtains to a bank of fog - mountains, what mountains, was grumbled as I looked out of my motel room. This annoying deterrent though did not stop me from heading out on the hour plus drive to Mt Aspiring National Park and the Raspberry Creek Carpark as the sun rose. I could barely make out the valley I was driving through as the fog settled although I did come across a few sheep jams along the way and a couple of cows on the road - hey this is New Zealand after all. After weaving my way along an unsealed road and through some narrow stretches with tight turns I came to the car park which was virtually empty on this cold grim morning. I hoped, as I wrapped myself up in all my cold weather gear, that the visibility would improve - and it sure did in such an incredible way. Glancing up as a began my walk I noticed the top of a snow covered mountain looming high above and slowly poking Its peak out of the freezing blanket of fog and into the sun.

Read my next blog about Mt Aspiring National Park, Rob Roy Glacier and drinking the best hot chocolate ever at Patagonia