QT Queenstown is a memorable blend of style and comfort, go on treat yourself

The QT Hotel is a stylish modern hotel that is part of the on trend Aussie group. They are the younger more cool version of the Rydges Hotel Group. The QT in Queenstown is actually sat just behind and above the Rydges and they share facilities. Don’t let this put you off though as the facilities here are good.

Okay so the swimming pool isn’t the best – but this is the mountains so really, how often will you be going for a dip? Yes Queenstown summers do get ridiculously hot at times, but I’ve also been there in February when there has been snow on those surrounding peaks and the heater has been zapped up.

The reception area is influenced by the neighbouring ski fields. There are lots of bright warm colours such as purple and red. There is even one of those drop down fires to warm the cockles on a chilly day.

Each floor has large windows so that those spectacular lake views are evident as soon as you step out of the lift. The rooms are cosy  and cool. Lovely sofas, black and white bathrooms, complete with huge tubs and walk in showers. The bed is one of those you fall into and never seem to stop falling, it swallows you whole. There is even a lovely big blanket to wrap yourself it, a mini bar full of Kiwi favourites and luxurious robes. With these rooms you might never want to leave.

View across Queenstown

But please do, for the Red bar downstairs is so good. With it’s massive windows overlooking the mountain ranges and lake it’s a truly special place for a drink. The cocktail list has to be tried, it’s just awesome, as are the local wines that are showcased by the glass. Have one drink or several, and even better aim to be there around sunset to watch those natural colours changes before you, it’s a sight that will live long in the memory.

Looking back from the Queenstown gardens towards the town

The weekend road trip through the middle of the South Island

They say life is about the journey not just the destination and to be honest  this could also be said about the drive through the centre of New Zealand’s south Island.

Beginning on the long straight plains through Canterbury you pass endless farmland complete with sheep, cattle and water pivots as you head across to the lofty heights of the Southern Alps, the mountain range that splits the island into two. The Southern Alps stretch most of the length of the South Island and divide it into separate parts, the east which tends to be on the dry side, and the west which is to say the least is very wet. It’s quite a distinction.

Who doesn’t love a road trip when the sun’s out…

The small town of Geraldine is the first noticeable stopping point on this epic adventure. It’s a great little place, a service town for all the neighbouring farms, a tourist stopping off point on the journey from Christchurch through to the mountains, and yet still manages to maintain its own vibrant personality. Barkers, the New Zealand jam and sauce manufacturers, are based here (you will see their products in every supermarket) and have a lively café to enjoy a coffee and a few treats. It’s light and airy with windows opening up to a garden area at the back. There is also my personal favourite, Verde, a local café which never fails to offer great breakfast and lunch options whether from the menu or the counter. In summertime perch yourself in one of their garden seats or on the sunny veranda.

 As you journey onwards from Geraldine the scenery begins to change, you will notice more hills and slopes appearing. The road changes from long and straight to more winding, climbing up over forest areas and past mountain streams. After a while you reach Fairlie, the gateway to the Mackenzie country. It’s also the home to one of New Zealand’s favourite pie shops – and that is saying a lot as pies are a big deal over here. Fairlie Bakehouse is always busy – they have a daily selection of pies written up on their blackboard – all our good but the most popular are probably their salmon and back and the pork with apple scratching.

Suitably sauted from your Fairlie pie it’s best to be on your way down the road, passing small settlements such as Burkes Pass, which has a quirky feel to it, complete with wild west style shops. Unknowingly you are slowly climbing upwards towards those mountains. At the side of the road there are signs indicating turn offs for ski areas. Pull offs are available along straight stretches of the highway to take much south after snaps of the snowy peaks ahead on a clear day.

The Mackenzie Region, the scenery becomes more dramatic as you approach the Southern Alps

The next highlight is Lake Tekapo which will follow soon…….

A morning driving a sled dog team - dreams do come true

I’d arranged to meet up with Underdog NZ at 10.30am at the Snow Farm to start my tour. After a brief talk about what to expect I was taken across to meet the dogs, and what a greeting it was. It seems the dogs absolutely love these tours and get incredibly excited about it all. I was smothered in doggy loves very quickly. There were a mixture of Alaskan Huskies, Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes all keen to get started. My human guide gave me a brief outline on how to use the kart and a demonstration on how to control the dogs – yeah right, it was more the dogs controlling me I think, and we were all set up and ready to go. I started off cautious, pressing the break to check it was working and trying my hardest not to tangle up the reigns. Four animated and eager dogs were ready to pull me along and I was a bit nervous at first in case I fell off!!! The snow was smooth but compacted and I had visions of being dragged along on my stomach by four excited animals. My concerns didn’t last for long, well only until my hands could no longer cope with the discomfort of gripping on so tightly! Within a few minutes I was riding the cart like a professional – well in my opinion anyway - and we were off soaring across the snow-covered landscape as one. Well maybe not quite. I had to get off on any upwards slope to take the pressure off my four-legged friends and help push the cart. I also spent a significant amount of time trying not to get them all tangled together so that the back two didn’t trip over the front twos’ reigns – there was a lot of responsibility looking after these keen racers! None of this distracted from the sheer joy of directing my dogs as we ploughed across the snow. The setting was majestic with the perfect clear blue skies reflecting off the brilliant white of our snow-covered carpet. It was a truly memorable moment in time.

Dan and I attempting to be in charge of 4 four legged bosses! Yeah right…..

Reluctantly I drew up to where I had started and had to discard our cart. The fun didn’t stop there though as now it was time for doggy pats and treats as my new best friends were rewarded for their endeavours and sheer hard work in dragging someone as clumsy as me along. I was allowed to spend as much time as I wanted with my new mates and soon learnt the names and mannerisms of most of them. I was also rewarded with puppy cuddles as two new members of the team were taken out of their kennels and introduced to me.

Dan enjoying lots of cuddles after the race.

I returned to the lodge brimmed with enthusiasm and chuffed to bits. There are lots of other options to take in here with snow shoe routes laid out and cross-country ski-ing lessons available. I was personally exhausted so settled for a warming hot chocolate from the bar upstairs with great views across the ski field and
beyond. Underdog offer night runs and even overnight stays – I will undoubtedly be back…

Cruising in Cromwell, home to the gold rush of wineries

Cromwell sits in the heart of the Central Otago region. It’s an area synomonous with excellent wines and mouth watering stone fruits. The town was established by gold miners and originally named The Junction. In 1992 the Clyde Dam Power Station was completed and the valley in which Cromwell sits was flooded to create the picturesque Lake Dunston. The original old town of Cromwell now sits under this lake. However some of the buildings were removed prior to the lake being created and have been lovingly restored and are now situated within the Historic Precinct.

Any trip to Cromwell begins with a drive around the lake and past the numerous vineyards that climb the valley walls on each side. Names such as Lowburn, Bannockburn, Bendigo are familiar to anyone with a love of New Zealand’s famous Pinot Noir. The Cromwell Valley is lovely with views everywhere you look. A cycle/walking trail follows the lakeside from the township to Pisa Moorings a settlement a few kilometres away which is home to the Heritage Lakeside Resort - a great place to stay if you desire peace and tranquillity. The rooms here are positioned over the water and you are greeted each morning to the quack of the ducks. The resort has it’s own onsite restaurant and bar and the newly opened ‘Bunker’ is ideal for a pre- dinner drink. It’s just a shame it’s so difficult to find but ask the hotel staff for directions and they will happily guide you there. The room is furnished with saddles and woodworking features with a large open fire place dominating. It’s both cosy and curious in equal measures.

Heritage Lakeside Resort near Cromwell, experience and overwater villa

Cromwell itself seems somewhat light weight on first appearances. Take this with a pinch of salt though. Yes the large plastic fruit are somewhat tacky and the sterile town-centre perhaps lacks the atmosphere of nearby Wanaka or Queenstown, but underneath Cromwell packs a vibe. The nearby Swimming and Fitness centre is the envy of other towns. The sports fields are always buzzing with competitors. The stream flowing through the middle of the pedestrian area gurgles away as shoppers browse the local bookstore, deli and bakery. With fruit trees and vines surrounding the township, and it’s setting alongside the lake-front in the heart of a mountainous valley, Cromwell is truly a wonderful place to while away a few days. There are numerous walking trails and even the opportunity to hire an e-bike from the local visitor centre. A day ride will take you through the valley to neighbouring Clyde – it is on my list to do this summer.

Any trip to the Otago area though must involve visits to wineries. Put simply this is a food and wine lovers paradise. I’ve already mentioned the Pinot Noir but the wineries here are creative and have some excellent sparkling’s, roses and chardonnays to sample. Cromwell itself is home to several wineries. The Four Barrels Walking Trail is a must do. It involves a short walk between 4 of the local wineries, Misha’s, Scott Base, Aurum and Wooing Tree. All offer platters or snacks of some type and each, of course, offers impeccable tastings. Misha’s is in the town surrounded by orchards, perch on one of the stools and allow one of the cellar door staff to talk you though the tastings. Nearby the Wooing Tree is set by a small lake within their own vines. They have seating outside under shady canopies and their platters have to be tried. As does a glass of their legendary ‘blondie’ wine – the ideal sunny summer afternoon tipple. Scott Basin sits up above the valley on its own little platform, again the cellar door is rustic with indoor and outdoor seating. The wine tasting is excellent and they are even the wine providers to the Antarctica Scott Base!

After a couple of wine induced days in Cromwell it’s time to discover it’s partner in crime Bannockburn…. Uncovered in another blog coming very soon……

Following the pathway alongside Lake Dunston

Hanging out in history in the old gold town of Cardrona

The Cardrona Hotel is one of the oldest in New Zealand and reckoned to be the most photographed. It’s not hard to understand why. The grand old dame dates to 1863 when the area was in the midst of a gold rush. At the time there where four hotels in Cardrona and it was a bustling prosperous hub for the area. Visiting the sleepy settlement now it’s hard in all honesty to imagine it. Today it’s a quiet place with just a few properties remaining. The Cardrona Hotel still stands due to the endeavours of previous owners who were keen to preserve this slice of New Zealand history. It is now a popular spot for après ski drinks (there are a couple of excellent ski fields just down the road) an excellent restaurant and even has a few comfortable hotel rooms at the back. I decided to stay the night to experience this unique spot for myself. It was a cold blustery evening, but the bar was cosy with its real log fires and huge comfy sofas. There were crowds of people both inside and outside – the back garden is home to an appealing fire pit which lets off a lot of heat to warm the chilly cockles. After a day on the ski fields there is probably no better place to hang out.

My room was at the back of the hotel, thankfully not overlooking the raucous beer garden, which meant I could enjoy some quiet time to myself. With the radiator cranked up it soon became lovely and toasty. Furnishings are old worldly and charming a bit like the pub itself, so even though this part of the hotel was only built this century it has the feel of times past. I’d booked dinner in the restaurant that night (the nearest other place to eat was in Wanaka several kilometres drive away, which at night in the dark didn’t really appeal). I was glad I did have a booking as it was packed. I was seated at a table by the fire which was very welcoming to enjoy a hearty plate of homemade curry. I’d heard that the current owners had worked hard to improve the food offerings, and this was certainly bared testament in my meal. There are burgers, steaks even nachos on the menu depending on your appetite.

I ventured to bed very contented and pleased I hadn’t had an encounter with the resident ghost!

Dan enjoying a local beer by the fire at the Cardrona Hotel

After a comfortable night’s sleep, I was up much earlier than most which meant a quick visit to the hotel’s restaurant again for a breakfast of poached eggs on toast. I would have tried their homemade porridge or eggs benedict, but I had a pressing engagement so needed to be on my way swiftly. I’m heading back to linger longer and enjoy the hotel as it rises to another busy day.

The reason for my hurry on this particular morning was that I had to drive up the long meandering road to the top of the Snow Farm, one of the ski fields in the Cardrona area. Whilst it takes a while to twist and turn upwards the views on offer are spectacular. As you venture higher the scene beneath you unwraps in every direction and affords awesome views of the other Cardrona ski field just across the valley. On a clear day it is quite a sight. As I reached the top the grassy tussock roadside scenery was replaced by alpine rubble covered with a thick layer of pure white snow. The Snow Farm lodge itself is an extensive building complete with eateries, ski facilities and accommodation. If you are fortunate to have a clear day it would be a top place to base yourself, especially at night when it must feel that you can actually reach up and touch the stars.

Looking out over the magnificent Snow Farm at Cardrona

My morning was going to be taken up doing something I’d always dreamt about, driving my own sled dog team. I’d arranged to meet up with Underdog NZ at 10.30am at the Snow Farm to start my tour.

Look out for my next blog soon………

A road trip into Mt Aspiring National Park never disappoints

Wanaka is famous for several things, its buzzing atmosphere, its picturesque setting, it’s large lake and it’s famous tree. But what is really inspiring about any road trip to Wanaka is leaving civilisation behind and heading deep into Mt Aspiring National Park.

My first day in Wanaka involved a stroll around the lakefront. I’ve hired a kayak before and taken it across the lake - that is well worth doing - hire of  kayak and paddleboards is usually available on the edge of the lake near the town centre. Today though I just felt like a stroll so headed around past the jetty and marina. absorbing all those picture postcard views.

Top tip: make sure you head down the jetty to peer into the clear waters beneath - there are usually heaps of New Zealand Long Fin Eels swimming around. These eels can live up to 100 years in freshwater before heading out to sea.

The lakeside pathway I was following carries on through woodland and meanders by the lakes eastern reaches. You can carry on all the way to Albert Town if you so wish. As I strolled I spotted shags and herons fishing in the lake water and several fantails tweeted a chorus at me as they grazed on the bugs disturbed by my footprint.

I also strongly recommend walking around the other side of the lake which is an even prettier route to follow (had left from the town) and yes this route does indeed take you past the famous ThatWanakaTree# - its also quite a cool mountain biking track and offers some epic photo opportunities.

Wanaka itself is well worth devoting some time too. It’s home to some excellent cafes and restaurants and some cracking pubs. The Lake Bar is one of my favourites - positioned on the corner it does, as the name suggests, have great lake views. The wine and beers pretty good too… Lots of locals congregate here. A few doors away there is an attractive bar called Alchemy which is apparently good to eat in - I haven’t tried it yet as I’m rather addicted to Francesca’s Italian, a somewhat Wanaka institution that serves fabulous pasta and desserts. Don’t miss their polenta fries for starters either - they are irresistible. Whilst mentioning food in Wanaka I must recommend the scones from the Federal Deli found tucked down a little alleyway off the main street (Helwick Street), they sell out quickly but the cheese and date scones here are from another planet……

The shops in Wanaka all tend to cater for the great outdoors which is hardly surprising given where Wanaka is situated. If you don’t go outdoors here and do some hiking, climbing or cycling there is probably something suspicious about you. Yes, I appreciate I’ve just mentioned some incredible eating and drinking spots (I haven’t even started on the wineries and chocolate shops present nearby, I’ll save those for another day) but you must get out in the outdoors in Wanaka it’s just not negotiable - and just think how good you will feel about tucking in to said food and beverage after a day full of exercise….

So, in keeping with what I’ve just strongly suggested, my start the next day was early - super early. I opened the curtains to a bank of fog - mountains, what mountains, was grumbled as I looked out of my motel room. This annoying deterrent though did not stop me from heading out on the hour plus drive to Mt Aspiring National Park and the Raspberry Creek Carpark as the sun rose. I could barely make out the valley I was driving through as the fog settled although I did come across a few sheep jams along the way and a couple of cows on the road - hey this is New Zealand after all. After weaving my way along an unsealed road and through some narrow stretches with tight turns I came to the car park which was virtually empty on this cold grim morning. I hoped, as I wrapped myself up in all my cold weather gear, that the visibility would improve - and it sure did in such an incredible way. Glancing up as a began my walk I noticed the top of a snow covered mountain looming high above and slowly poking Its peak out of the freezing blanket of fog and into the sun.

Read my next blog about Mt Aspiring National Park, Rob Roy Glacier and drinking the best hot chocolate ever at Patagonia