Abel Tasman National Park - hiking a New Zealand coastline

The walk begins at the end of town, not far from a large car parking area and a lovely eating/drinking spot known as The Park Café. Signs advise how long it is to the next part of the track so that you can gauge exactly how far too walk. If I was doing a multi-day walk I would probably arrange a water taxi from Mapua to take me out further into the park. This enables a walk back along the coast finishing at The Park Café with a large glass of wine – surely the best way to end an incredible adventure. Today though I am just going to walk a short way – to dip my toes into this expansive but rewarding New Zealand coastal park. The sign tells me the distance, walking at an average person pace, to various beaches dotted along the park. I decide to allow my legs carry me as far as I can get.

Starting point of the Abel Tasman Great Walk

At first the walk traverses a boardwalk over the estuary, the tide is out and various sea birds frequent the area scrummaging on the sandy banks for morsels of food. I enter the start of the bush with a long sandy beach to my right hand side. It looks inviting but I press onwards further into the forest. There is some replanting taking place alongside the pathway as never-ending work continues to ensure the Abel Tasman remains as it was always supposed to be. The path way is sandy but stable although I have to keep my eye out for losses rocks and tree routes that jut through. I continue climbing steadily upwards and into denser bush.

A sandy stretch of beach along the Abel Tasman Track

Tin Cup beach is on my right, a short walk down hill and up on my left is the campsite which is a grass clearing ready for use by tents. As I continue onwards a weka wanders down the pathway towards me. He looks up and we peer at one another, hello weka I say, the weka responds by plunging into the nearest bush for safety. As I climb higher the views of the coastline beneath me begin to peek into view.

One of the many bays you can walk down too from the track

The teal green colour of the sea, a marine reserve, is mesmerizing on a sunny day. Further out across the water are islands – Adele and Tonga, both protected sanctuaries for bird life and home to large colonies of the New Zealand Fur Seal. If you peer hard enough you can sometimes make out the seals bobbing and twisting around in the water. I hear a couple of fantails squeak around me, following me through the forest, a family of quail pop out onto the pathway and dart off again.

An ideal camping spot in summer with the sea lapping beside your tent

On my left hand side a baby bird pops its head out of the bush. It catches my eye and I notice a trio of fluffy baby wekas eagerly peering at me. Suddenly a large warning squawk tells me abruptly to go away – it’s mum or dad anxious to protect their little ones. I heed their advise and carry on. The track narrows in places, where waterfalls cascade down it’s sides. Dark patches of forest where the sun rays never quite reach a patchy underfoot.

Next instalment coming shortly…….. watch this space…..

Journey into the Abel Tasman National Park

he Abel Tasman National Park, a short drive from Nelson at the top of the South Island is an ideal spot for hiking or kayaking.

The coastal track here is classed as one of the countries great walks. It can be walked over a number of days or in shorter periods.

Water taxis buzz along the coastline servicing all the various drop off points for hikers, day trippers and kayakers. There are a number of idyllic camping spots to spend an unforgettable night. Some only accessible by water.

I’ll be writing another blog shortly all about hiking the track over a few days. It’s one of the most easy and accessible multi day walks in New Zealand and recommended for beginners to overnight hiking who might be slightly nervous about a first adventure into the bush alone.

The estuary at low tide at Marahau, gateway to the Abel Tasman

My weekend started with a drive from Nelson through to Motueka. Motueka is a service town for the neighbouring areas but it’s also fast becoming a top spot to spend a couple of days. As well as splendid scenery it also has a number of wineries dotted around it’s outer reaches. There are some great eateries as well – T.O.A.D Hall is a popular spot on the outskirts of town catering for an array of needs. They have their own juice bar and ice creamery. They serve great breakfasts and even open on an evening for pizza. The place is huge with a fantastic beer garden out the back. The Smoking Barrel is becoming famous for its donuts, which are apparently incredibly creative. Elevation is a top coffee house but my favourite is Patisserie Royale. Stock up early morning for both breakfast and lunch and you can’t go wrong. The house-made pies and quiches are divine. They have a great choice of sandwiches, including exciting vegetarian versions. However as you’d expect from a French bakery it’s the patisseries that win out. A massive array of pain au chocolat, pain au raison, almond tarts, the list is endless. Choosing which one to sample is the hardest part. But trust me when I say, you cannot go wrong.

Overlooking the beach at Marahau

Leaving Motueka the road snakes through farmland and through small settlements that are present mainly to support the fruits and hops that grow prolifically in this area. As you turn off towards Mapua the landscape alters once again to dense bush and pine forest. This part of the country suffered from some devastating flooding a few years ago and the road is only just back to one piece again. The approach into Mapua itself is through coastal wetlands. The road curves around an estuary that is popular with fishermen when the tide is right. Mapua is small, spread out along the coastline. As you would expect there are a number of kayaking and water taxi operators here. There are motels and campsites and a couple of worth café/restaurants. I will talk about accommodation and food options in the area in another blog shortly.

At the far end of Mapua as you follow the coastline – which can’t be missed as it runs alongside the roadway the bush strewn landscape of the Abel Tasman National Park looms up above. Coming next, the Abel Tasman National Park

The weekend road trip through the middle of the South Island

They say life is about the journey not just the destination and to be honest  this could also be said about the drive through the centre of New Zealand’s south Island.

Beginning on the long straight plains through Canterbury you pass endless farmland complete with sheep, cattle and water pivots as you head across to the lofty heights of the Southern Alps, the mountain range that splits the island into two. The Southern Alps stretch most of the length of the South Island and divide it into separate parts, the east which tends to be on the dry side, and the west which is to say the least is very wet. It’s quite a distinction.

Who doesn’t love a road trip when the sun’s out…

The small town of Geraldine is the first noticeable stopping point on this epic adventure. It’s a great little place, a service town for all the neighbouring farms, a tourist stopping off point on the journey from Christchurch through to the mountains, and yet still manages to maintain its own vibrant personality. Barkers, the New Zealand jam and sauce manufacturers, are based here (you will see their products in every supermarket) and have a lively café to enjoy a coffee and a few treats. It’s light and airy with windows opening up to a garden area at the back. There is also my personal favourite, Verde, a local café which never fails to offer great breakfast and lunch options whether from the menu or the counter. In summertime perch yourself in one of their garden seats or on the sunny veranda.

 As you journey onwards from Geraldine the scenery begins to change, you will notice more hills and slopes appearing. The road changes from long and straight to more winding, climbing up over forest areas and past mountain streams. After a while you reach Fairlie, the gateway to the Mackenzie country. It’s also the home to one of New Zealand’s favourite pie shops – and that is saying a lot as pies are a big deal over here. Fairlie Bakehouse is always busy – they have a daily selection of pies written up on their blackboard – all our good but the most popular are probably their salmon and back and the pork with apple scratching.

Suitably sauted from your Fairlie pie it’s best to be on your way down the road, passing small settlements such as Burkes Pass, which has a quirky feel to it, complete with wild west style shops. Unknowingly you are slowly climbing upwards towards those mountains. At the side of the road there are signs indicating turn offs for ski areas. Pull offs are available along straight stretches of the highway to take much south after snaps of the snowy peaks ahead on a clear day.

The Mackenzie Region, the scenery becomes more dramatic as you approach the Southern Alps

The next highlight is Lake Tekapo which will follow soon…….

The Road to Milford Sound, continued....

Leaving the Hollyford Valley behind the road met up with a river which seemed to be fed by the imposing mountains now towering above me. As the rain fell waterfalls appeared cascading down from the mountain peaks high above. Warning signs alerted me to the fact that I was now in an avalanche risk area and was unable to stop. This went on for over 30km - such are the perils in this area. The snow now blanketed the sides of the road and as I climbed higher the rain itself actually turned to snow.

Snow lines the road up towards Homer Tunnel

Approaching Homer Tunnel – which was famously cut out through the mountainside to provide much needed manual labour after the war years, the mountains seem to move closer to the roadside and gigantic boulders and lumps of rock lay scattered about. No wonder it was a no stopping area I thought to myself! I had to stop a little further however as the lights for the tunnel were red. It is run on a one way system and the waiting time on the big board in front of me advised 10 minutes. Just enough time to jump out of the car, pull on the waterproofs, and take some essential photographs. Snapping the shots was so easy as there were epic views in every direction. Trying to take in the colossal might of the place and it's sheer wonderment was though another matter. No picture could ever do it justice. Sometimes nature just wins hands down, leaving you with the impression that you are both small and insignificant in her immense scheme of things.

The waiting sign at the entrance to Homer Tunnel

Eventually the lights turned to green and I drove carefully through the tiny hole in the mountainside - no Homer Tunnel isn't small, but it does look like a dot on the mountainside when you are in such a place. Driving through I counted the markings, 600km, 800km etc until I reached the light at the end. It was quite a relief Homer Tunnel is not for the faint hearted, once you've experienced it you will understand my statement. I've been through it in fog once before which was quite an ordeal, a case of clinging on for sheer will if I'm honest. Finally emerging into the Cleddau Valley on the other-side of the mountain range my breath nearly left my body and my hands tightened ever so more on that steering wheel. The drop into Cleddau Valley is impressive, it’s also slightly scary as you corkscrew around the tight bends in the road plummeting you down into the valley. There used to be a great stopping point in this area known as The Chasm but sadly it’s closed at the moment due to the storms earlier in 2020 that caused significant damage in this area. After driving through the avalanche zone for so long I breathed a huge sigh as the signs indicated I was finely free of such risks. Yes, these days the road is controlled and monitored well, with hazardous snow build ups reduced by detonator when the road is closed, to try to prevent any unforeseen avalanche. Nothing is certain though and we all know that nature is a force to be reckoned with.

Nature rules in such a place

I continued weaving my way around the valley floor through dense New Zealand Fiordland rainforest before eventually I reaching my destination, Milford Sound. The drive had been one of amazement, bewilderment, gob smacking scenery and a small bit of terror – colossal in every respect and one that lives in the memory forever afterwards.

The seating area in the Milford Lodge, a welcome escape from the weather

Rain pours down the window panes at Milford Lodge which is surrounded by native rainforest

Milford Lodge was my first port of call as I parked up and purchased a well earnt coffee to relax the nerves and enjoy in their freshly decorated café. The fur coverings on my seat warming me as I watched the rain tumble through the bush and wash down the window outside – this is the Fiordlands after all and to make it this incredible it needs all that rain…..

The departure point for boat trips at Milford Sound

a big sigh, the Road to Milford Sound

They say the journey is sometimes as good as the destination. And on occasions it can actually be better.

The whole aim of this blog is to encourage everyone to get out there are try things and sometimes that involves a long drive, sometimes it’s just down the road.  

Milford Road is one of those journeys that transcends your everyday – it is something unforgettable and is worthy of the drive even if there was nothing worthwhile to see at the end. The end of this road though is Milford Sound – reckoned by many to be possibly the eighth wonder of the world. (please see my earlier blog about Milford Sounds boat cruises). 

Taking a boat cruise at Milford Sound is a must do…

Milford Road leaves the township of Te Anau behind and follows the side of it’s namesakes lake for quite some time. Rolling hillside and lakeside accommodation passes by. In the distance large mountains loom their lofty peaks covered in snow. On the left hand side you pass the docking point for the boat ferrying hikers to the start of the legendary Milford Track, and then the road suddenly turns left and those mountains lie ahead of you. The farmland continues with fields full of hardy sheep, paradise shell ducks and some resilient cattle. This continues until you reach Etherington Valley, a long road takes you through the its heart alongside a braided river which roars through the valley.

Ethrington Valley on the road to MIlford

There are viewing points along the road to take photographs of the oncoming wilderness. A short drive further down the road reaches knobs flat, an accommodation and information point with an essential bathroom stop if one is needed. You then venture onwards until the landscape turns to bush and several Department of Conservation campsites hidden a short distance away. The next stopping point is on the left hand side with  long pull off for Mirror Lakes.

A South Island Robin is a reluctant poser for photographs at Mirror Lakes, Milford Road

A boardwalk takes you above these small lakes to allow you a good vantage point to see the reflection in the water of the towering mountains looming above. They have even kindly left a sign above the lake reflecting the name of the place, very clever. On my visit I was alone for much of the time and that ensured lots of wildlife viewing – a grey duck, native to New Zealand was nearby pecking at insects floating on the water. I also spied a rare South Island Robin, which pirouetted a few times around me but didn’t seem to keen to pose for it’s photograph for some bizarre reason….

A rare ‘grey duck’ samples some insect life on the Mirror Lake surface. The reflection from the mountains above is also clear

As I drove onwards the bush became thicker and darker, creeping up alongside the roadway as if trying to reclaim it as its own. After a small one lane bridge a sign pointed towards a campsite and a nature walk. Intrigued I drove a short distance and parked up. An information board advised me that there was a 45 minute loop walk to enjoy down to the shore line of Lake Gunn.

The green moss floor that greets you in the Milford Road bush

What struck me first was how green everything was. It was a shade of emerald bright and dazzling in the sunlight but dark and unnerving in the gloom. Everything was smothered in a moss of some sort. Trees grew out of other trees and hardy ferns covered the forest floor.

Dan at the start of the Nature Walk through native forest to the shoreline of Lake Gunn

An opening in the bush bought me to Lake Gunn, a lake surrounded on all sides by dense native bush. The water lapped at the small stones at my feet as I stood and admired the view. There wasn’t a sound to be heard except the lapping of the shallow clear water. I learnt that the lake stretched over 3km’s and I was only looking out at a small part of it. I continued on the loop walk back to my car listening to the local bird song echoing from the branches up above.

Trees growing up and around and out of other trees are common sights in this damp forest

The road as I drove onwards was now becoming narrower and windier.  I passed a sign informing me that it was the last campsite available to Milford Sound, I was entering the true wilderness area.

I started climbing upwards noticing how the bush appeared to be getting thicker in places. The road now seemed to be cut out of the cliffside with a steep slope to the side of me along which waterfalls plummeted down. At least that’s what I think they did, as at this point my knuckles were white from the grip on my steering wheel.

Mountains surround you on all sides on Milford Road

 On the way up to Milford the cloud was low and a fog had settled across the valley obscuring the views. On my way back however the sun had burnt it all away exposing the vast valley below. The pull off at the viewing point overlooking Hollyford Valley is named pops point after one of the original caretakers who sadly got swept away in an avalanche whilst trying to clear the road.

Coming next, the giant boulders, unfathomable terrain and Homer Tunnel