QT Queenstown is a memorable blend of style and comfort, go on treat yourself
QT Hotel in Queenstown smacks of sophistication and style
The QT Hotel is a stylish modern hotel that is part of the on trend Aussie group. They are the younger more cool version of the Rydges Hotel Group. The QT in Queenstown is actually sat just behind and above the Rydges and they share facilities. Don’t let this put you off though as the facilities here are good.
Okay so the swimming pool isn’t the best – but this is the mountains so really, how often will you be going for a dip? Yes Queenstown summers do get ridiculously hot at times, but I’ve also been there in February when there has been snow on those surrounding peaks and the heater has been zapped up.
The reception area is influenced by the neighbouring ski fields. There are lots of bright warm colours such as purple and red. There is even one of those drop down fires to warm the cockles on a chilly day.
Each floor has large windows so that those spectacular lake views are evident as soon as you step out of the lift. The rooms are cosy and cool. Lovely sofas, black and white bathrooms, complete with huge tubs and walk in showers. The bed is one of those you fall into and never seem to stop falling, it swallows you whole. There is even a lovely big blanket to wrap yourself it, a mini bar full of Kiwi favourites and luxurious robes. With these rooms you might never want to leave.
View across Queenstown
But please do, for the Red bar downstairs is so good. With it’s massive windows overlooking the mountain ranges and lake it’s a truly special place for a drink. The cocktail list has to be tried, it’s just awesome, as are the local wines that are showcased by the glass. Have one drink or several, and even better aim to be there around sunset to watch those natural colours changes before you, it’s a sight that will live long in the memory.
Looking back from the Queenstown gardens towards the town
Ideas for taking time out in lovely quaint Akaroa
Floating along on Akaroa Harbour
Akaroa is a seaside village on the Bank’s Peninsula. It’s name means long harbour and the water is definitely the prime reason for most peoples visits here. Whether this is to get out on the water to boat and fish, in the water to swim with the local pod of dolphins or literally just paddle by the beach or on a paddle board.
Paddle boarding in Akaroa Harbour
Akaroa was partially settled by the French (after some confusion and agreement with the British) and their influence is visible in the town still today. Street signs and lighting is in the French style, lots of place names are French and there is even a French cemetery to visit. For a small place it has a lot going for it, with a lovely waterfront promenade to enjoy, a small yet attractive beach and numerous jetties from which to launch boats. Trips leave daily for nature tours, swimming with the world’s smallest Hectors Dolphins (a pod live within and around the harbour), fishing and sailing. There are kayaks to hire which I highly recommend. On a warm day there is nothing better than making your way around the harbour edges, spotting local seabirds.
The town itself has an array of accommodation options, some waterside whilst others offer bush or sea views. The café / restaurant / bar options in town are numerous, including a former toilet block that has been converted into a bar overlooking the beach.
There are plenty of balconies from which to take in the views in Akaroa
he town butchers is one of the very best in New Zealand – it has an array of options if you are looking to self-cater – choose from some award winning sausages, local Akaroa salmon or even homemade lasagna. Whatever you do though don’t miss out on the fish and chips – there are two outlets in Akaroa, both being excellent. The one on the waterfront is a top spot as proven by the queue often stretching outside the door. Whilst Murphy’s positioned just behind the main through fare on a corner serves up only fish caught that morning.
There is a cooking school that offers regular classes with cuisine choices from around the world and a small native bush area to stroll through and if you are lucky listen to the bellbirds and tui chorus. A short walk further up from the town is the Akaroa lighthouse. It is open on Sunday afternoons to explore, but otherwise the views across the harbour are reward enough for the short stroll around to it – I’ve even spotted a couple of dolphins from this spot making their way across the harbour.
The views are equally splendid from the water too….
Journey into the Abel Tasman National Park
The road journey to the Abel Tasman involves coastline, wineries, and cute townships
he Abel Tasman National Park, a short drive from Nelson at the top of the South Island is an ideal spot for hiking or kayaking.
The coastal track here is classed as one of the countries great walks. It can be walked over a number of days or in shorter periods.
Water taxis buzz along the coastline servicing all the various drop off points for hikers, day trippers and kayakers. There are a number of idyllic camping spots to spend an unforgettable night. Some only accessible by water.
I’ll be writing another blog shortly all about hiking the track over a few days. It’s one of the most easy and accessible multi day walks in New Zealand and recommended for beginners to overnight hiking who might be slightly nervous about a first adventure into the bush alone.
The estuary at low tide at Marahau, gateway to the Abel Tasman
My weekend started with a drive from Nelson through to Motueka. Motueka is a service town for the neighbouring areas but it’s also fast becoming a top spot to spend a couple of days. As well as splendid scenery it also has a number of wineries dotted around it’s outer reaches. There are some great eateries as well – T.O.A.D Hall is a popular spot on the outskirts of town catering for an array of needs. They have their own juice bar and ice creamery. They serve great breakfasts and even open on an evening for pizza. The place is huge with a fantastic beer garden out the back. The Smoking Barrel is becoming famous for its donuts, which are apparently incredibly creative. Elevation is a top coffee house but my favourite is Patisserie Royale. Stock up early morning for both breakfast and lunch and you can’t go wrong. The house-made pies and quiches are divine. They have a great choice of sandwiches, including exciting vegetarian versions. However as you’d expect from a French bakery it’s the patisseries that win out. A massive array of pain au chocolat, pain au raison, almond tarts, the list is endless. Choosing which one to sample is the hardest part. But trust me when I say, you cannot go wrong.
Overlooking the beach at Marahau
Leaving Motueka the road snakes through farmland and through small settlements that are present mainly to support the fruits and hops that grow prolifically in this area. As you turn off towards Mapua the landscape alters once again to dense bush and pine forest. This part of the country suffered from some devastating flooding a few years ago and the road is only just back to one piece again. The approach into Mapua itself is through coastal wetlands. The road curves around an estuary that is popular with fishermen when the tide is right. Mapua is small, spread out along the coastline. As you would expect there are a number of kayaking and water taxi operators here. There are motels and campsites and a couple of worth café/restaurants. I will talk about accommodation and food options in the area in another blog shortly.
At the far end of Mapua as you follow the coastline – which can’t be missed as it runs alongside the roadway the bush strewn landscape of the Abel Tasman National Park looms up above. Coming next, the Abel Tasman National Park
Havelock, home of the delicious green lipped mussel and gateway to Marlborough
Mussels are fresh as a daisy in Havelock, and pretty tasty too!
Havelock is known as the gateway to the Marlbourgh Sounds. It’s also the mussel capital of New Zealand – and that’s quite a claim given how well renowned the green lipped mussels are in this area.
The town itself is neat and compact postioned at the end of one of the sounds. Like many people I had only previously ever driven through it on my way to places. I was always tempted to pull over and try out one of the many eateries along the main highway which offered lunches of the local mussels amongst other temptations. I’d never got around to it though until I hired a campervan to spend the weekend touring the local area. Havelock has a friendly, efficient camp site situated right in the centre of the township. It’s so easy to park up and then get out and explore. The marina is just behind the site and it was much bigger than I imagined. The gateway out into the Sounds it’s a popular spot to launch a boat. The mussel barges also berth here servicing the farms growing in the vast clean waters. You can be absolutely certain that any mussel served here is as fresh as it comes given they are grown just out across the bay.
Havelock Marina, a popular spot on a sunny afternoon
A circuit around the marina and onto the main high street brought me to a number of pubs and cafes offering mussel creations. I opted for the Captains Daughter, a pub built in a traditional manner, the type you would expect to find in an English village with a real fire glowing in the centre to warm the coggles. It wasn’t too chilly though on the winters day I visited and the deck outside was inviting. A large area it was warmed by the weak winters sun. I ordered a glass of local Marlborough sav and the toughest decision was to decide between the steamed or grilled mussels. I opted for grilled in garlic butter and a side portion of chips to complete the meal. It sure was heaven..
Locally caught green lipped mussels served grills from the Captain’s Daughter in Havelock
Havelock is surrounded by bush lined hills rising to meets the sounds, and although the main road to Nelson was just outside the door I failed to notice it.
Just down the road from Havelock is Pelorus. A pull off just before the small one lane bridge takes you into a carpark surrounded by bush. There is access to a campsite and café here. The café is an excellent spot to call off at – their cakes and pies are top notch (yes okay I’ve sampled a few, I confess). To make up for said calorie count are several walks leading off from here that range in lengths - I will discuss all about the local walks in this area in a later blog…..
Coming up – great camping spots around the South Island
The bush smothered hills surrounding the town of Havelock, gateway to the Marlborough Sounds
Cruising in Cromwell, home to the gold rush of wineries
The lake and mountains surrounding Cromwell Basin are as noticeable as the wineries here.
Cromwell sits in the heart of the Central Otago region. It’s an area synomonous with excellent wines and mouth watering stone fruits. The town was established by gold miners and originally named The Junction. In 1992 the Clyde Dam Power Station was completed and the valley in which Cromwell sits was flooded to create the picturesque Lake Dunston. The original old town of Cromwell now sits under this lake. However some of the buildings were removed prior to the lake being created and have been lovingly restored and are now situated within the Historic Precinct.
Any trip to Cromwell begins with a drive around the lake and past the numerous vineyards that climb the valley walls on each side. Names such as Lowburn, Bannockburn, Bendigo are familiar to anyone with a love of New Zealand’s famous Pinot Noir. The Cromwell Valley is lovely with views everywhere you look. A cycle/walking trail follows the lakeside from the township to Pisa Moorings a settlement a few kilometres away which is home to the Heritage Lakeside Resort - a great place to stay if you desire peace and tranquillity. The rooms here are positioned over the water and you are greeted each morning to the quack of the ducks. The resort has it’s own onsite restaurant and bar and the newly opened ‘Bunker’ is ideal for a pre- dinner drink. It’s just a shame it’s so difficult to find but ask the hotel staff for directions and they will happily guide you there. The room is furnished with saddles and woodworking features with a large open fire place dominating. It’s both cosy and curious in equal measures.
Heritage Lakeside Resort near Cromwell, experience and overwater villa
Cromwell itself seems somewhat light weight on first appearances. Take this with a pinch of salt though. Yes the large plastic fruit are somewhat tacky and the sterile town-centre perhaps lacks the atmosphere of nearby Wanaka or Queenstown, but underneath Cromwell packs a vibe. The nearby Swimming and Fitness centre is the envy of other towns. The sports fields are always buzzing with competitors. The stream flowing through the middle of the pedestrian area gurgles away as shoppers browse the local bookstore, deli and bakery. With fruit trees and vines surrounding the township, and it’s setting alongside the lake-front in the heart of a mountainous valley, Cromwell is truly a wonderful place to while away a few days. There are numerous walking trails and even the opportunity to hire an e-bike from the local visitor centre. A day ride will take you through the valley to neighbouring Clyde – it is on my list to do this summer.
Any trip to the Otago area though must involve visits to wineries. Put simply this is a food and wine lovers paradise. I’ve already mentioned the Pinot Noir but the wineries here are creative and have some excellent sparkling’s, roses and chardonnays to sample. Cromwell itself is home to several wineries. The Four Barrels Walking Trail is a must do. It involves a short walk between 4 of the local wineries, Misha’s, Scott Base, Aurum and Wooing Tree. All offer platters or snacks of some type and each, of course, offers impeccable tastings. Misha’s is in the town surrounded by orchards, perch on one of the stools and allow one of the cellar door staff to talk you though the tastings. Nearby the Wooing Tree is set by a small lake within their own vines. They have seating outside under shady canopies and their platters have to be tried. As does a glass of their legendary ‘blondie’ wine – the ideal sunny summer afternoon tipple. Scott Basin sits up above the valley on its own little platform, again the cellar door is rustic with indoor and outdoor seating. The wine tasting is excellent and they are even the wine providers to the Antarctica Scott Base!
After a couple of wine induced days in Cromwell it’s time to discover it’s partner in crime Bannockburn…. Uncovered in another blog coming very soon……
Following the pathway alongside Lake Dunston
A road trip into Mt Aspiring National Park never disappoints
Dan and I beside the shores of Lake Wanka with the famous tree behind us - very touristy I know - but when in Wanaka…
Wanaka is famous for several things, its buzzing atmosphere, its picturesque setting, it’s large lake and it’s famous tree. But what is really inspiring about any road trip to Wanaka is leaving civilisation behind and heading deep into Mt Aspiring National Park.
My first day in Wanaka involved a stroll around the lakefront. I’ve hired a kayak before and taken it across the lake - that is well worth doing - hire of kayak and paddleboards is usually available on the edge of the lake near the town centre. Today though I just felt like a stroll so headed around past the jetty and marina. absorbing all those picture postcard views.
Top tip: make sure you head down the jetty to peer into the clear waters beneath - there are usually heaps of New Zealand Long Fin Eels swimming around. These eels can live up to 100 years in freshwater before heading out to sea.
The lakeside pathway I was following carries on through woodland and meanders by the lakes eastern reaches. You can carry on all the way to Albert Town if you so wish. As I strolled I spotted shags and herons fishing in the lake water and several fantails tweeted a chorus at me as they grazed on the bugs disturbed by my footprint.
I also strongly recommend walking around the other side of the lake which is an even prettier route to follow (had left from the town) and yes this route does indeed take you past the famous ThatWanakaTree# - its also quite a cool mountain biking track and offers some epic photo opportunities.
Wanaka itself is well worth devoting some time too. It’s home to some excellent cafes and restaurants and some cracking pubs. The Lake Bar is one of my favourites - positioned on the corner it does, as the name suggests, have great lake views. The wine and beers pretty good too… Lots of locals congregate here. A few doors away there is an attractive bar called Alchemy which is apparently good to eat in - I haven’t tried it yet as I’m rather addicted to Francesca’s Italian, a somewhat Wanaka institution that serves fabulous pasta and desserts. Don’t miss their polenta fries for starters either - they are irresistible. Whilst mentioning food in Wanaka I must recommend the scones from the Federal Deli found tucked down a little alleyway off the main street (Helwick Street), they sell out quickly but the cheese and date scones here are from another planet……
The shops in Wanaka all tend to cater for the great outdoors which is hardly surprising given where Wanaka is situated. If you don’t go outdoors here and do some hiking, climbing or cycling there is probably something suspicious about you. Yes, I appreciate I’ve just mentioned some incredible eating and drinking spots (I haven’t even started on the wineries and chocolate shops present nearby, I’ll save those for another day) but you must get out in the outdoors in Wanaka it’s just not negotiable - and just think how good you will feel about tucking in to said food and beverage after a day full of exercise….
So, in keeping with what I’ve just strongly suggested, my start the next day was early - super early. I opened the curtains to a bank of fog - mountains, what mountains, was grumbled as I looked out of my motel room. This annoying deterrent though did not stop me from heading out on the hour plus drive to Mt Aspiring National Park and the Raspberry Creek Carpark as the sun rose. I could barely make out the valley I was driving through as the fog settled although I did come across a few sheep jams along the way and a couple of cows on the road - hey this is New Zealand after all. After weaving my way along an unsealed road and through some narrow stretches with tight turns I came to the car park which was virtually empty on this cold grim morning. I hoped, as I wrapped myself up in all my cold weather gear, that the visibility would improve - and it sure did in such an incredible way. Glancing up as a began my walk I noticed the top of a snow covered mountain looming high above and slowly poking Its peak out of the freezing blanket of fog and into the sun.
Read my next blog about Mt Aspiring National Park, Rob Roy Glacier and drinking the best hot chocolate ever at Patagonia