Camping - one of the most rewarding ways to appreciate the serenity of Marlbourough

Camping in the Marlborough Sounds is one of the most satisfying ways to get off the grid.

You don’t need much – simply a tent or a campervan – to get away and enjoy some of the most relaxing and appealing scenery to be enjoyed anywhere. Appreciating the serenity of the place and it’s unobtrusive lifestyle is what it is all about. Of course there are things to do here. There are some great hiking trails, some awesome mountain biking tracks, cruises to swim with the local pod of dolphins or appreciate this outstanding scenery from the water. Kayaking, sailing, even visits to local mussel farms. There is heaps to keep even the most motivated amongst us occupied. I will mention all these wonderful activities plus the best places to eat and hang out in a later blog. For now though the focus is on camping.

Marlborough Sounds

discover a different morning awakening

There is limited access to the Marlborough Sounds, roads are narrow, winding and long. Numerous remote campsites are available if you are prepared to venture out. A lot of the Department of Conservation campsites are only accessible by water however there are a number also available by road which makes it a great place to take a campervan.

Elaine Bay is one of the drivable campsites situated by the side of the water. There is a small reserve available for a small number of campers. A port operates close by so you can watch the boats servicing the nearby mussel farms head in and out. The water is also the launch point for many leisure boaties. It’s a peaceful spot and if you arise early enough you will be greeted to a warm sunrise across the water which is particularly atmospheric if there is a cloud or two around.

One of the many views from the campervan at Elaine Bay, Marlborough Sounds…….

Rakaia Gorge Walkway, a trip through the Canterbury Plains

I fancied an energetic weekend so after my bike ride Saturday morning along the Little River Rail trail I headed further west across the flat Canterbury Plains to the Rakaia Gorge. Grabbing a Hororata Pie on route for my lunch my journey took me to the picturesque gorge and it’s well maintained walkway.

The Rakaia Gorge walkway takes you through native New Zealand bush seemingly alive with birdsong and along an historic ferryman’s track which traverses the gorge edges.

The historic bridge crossing the Rakaia Gorge

The hike begins just at the side of the historic bridge which was built as a river crossing way back in 1882. As you head up into the bush you leave behind the traffic from the roadway beneath and are met with the calling sounds of the local bellbirds, wax eyes and fantails. You will undoubtably see many of them flying over pathway as you walk. The trail can be broken up into manageable sections or undertaken in one return loop. In total it takes about 3-4 hours to complete the return walk of just over 10km. Be warned some of the sections are steep in places and the footing can be uneven. There are some muddy spots where local springs run through and a shallow stream crossing to negotiate – so good solid walking boots are a necessity unless you enjoy wet feet!

The views that appear regularly as you stroll along are mightily impressive. The gorge is glacial with covered terraces but it has also been shaped by the Rakaia river that runs through it – the Rakaia is what is known as a New Zealand braided river meaning it is wide and can change shape depending on the amount of snow melt from the mountains feeding it. On a clear day you can follow the river right through the gorge to its mouth at the Pacific Ocean. It’s home to numerous trout and salmon in season so popular place to wade and fish. It’s also a top jet boating river being shallow and wide and quite often in summer time you can hear the whirl and snort of these boats as they whizz along beneath you. There is a commercial jet boat running along the river as well – it heads out from the car park at the start of the walk and is highly recommended. It’s fun, exhilarating and you get to venture a lot further down the river.

A peak through the bush along the walk

But back to my walk - the lower lookout spot is the first you come across where the views both ways up and down the river are quite something to behold, after a tough start to the walk it’s a popular spot to have a picnic or pause for thought. Further down the track you reach places where the pathway is literally carved out of the side of the cliff with steep drops down beneath. There is some farmland to cross before you reach Montane forest and shrub and come to a former coal mine tunnel which still has some old equipment left behind. It’s a short walk off the main track to this area.

The remainder of the walk up to the upper gorge lookout is largely uphill and is quite a slog in places. It’s well worth it though when you reach the end and witness the rugged mountain ranges towering up above. The perfect blue crystal clear water of the river surging through beneath on it’s way to the sea.

Upper gorge lookout

Rakaia Gorge, Canterbury