Rakaia Gorge Walkway, a trip through the Canterbury Plains
The blue waters of the Rakaia Gorge, an excellent day hike
I fancied an energetic weekend so after my bike ride Saturday morning along the Little River Rail trail I headed further west across the flat Canterbury Plains to the Rakaia Gorge. Grabbing a Hororata Pie on route for my lunch my journey took me to the picturesque gorge and it’s well maintained walkway.
The Rakaia Gorge walkway takes you through native New Zealand bush seemingly alive with birdsong and along an historic ferryman’s track which traverses the gorge edges.
The historic bridge crossing the Rakaia Gorge
The hike begins just at the side of the historic bridge which was built as a river crossing way back in 1882. As you head up into the bush you leave behind the traffic from the roadway beneath and are met with the calling sounds of the local bellbirds, wax eyes and fantails. You will undoubtably see many of them flying over pathway as you walk. The trail can be broken up into manageable sections or undertaken in one return loop. In total it takes about 3-4 hours to complete the return walk of just over 10km. Be warned some of the sections are steep in places and the footing can be uneven. There are some muddy spots where local springs run through and a shallow stream crossing to negotiate – so good solid walking boots are a necessity unless you enjoy wet feet!
The views that appear regularly as you stroll along are mightily impressive. The gorge is glacial with covered terraces but it has also been shaped by the Rakaia river that runs through it – the Rakaia is what is known as a New Zealand braided river meaning it is wide and can change shape depending on the amount of snow melt from the mountains feeding it. On a clear day you can follow the river right through the gorge to its mouth at the Pacific Ocean. It’s home to numerous trout and salmon in season so popular place to wade and fish. It’s also a top jet boating river being shallow and wide and quite often in summer time you can hear the whirl and snort of these boats as they whizz along beneath you. There is a commercial jet boat running along the river as well – it heads out from the car park at the start of the walk and is highly recommended. It’s fun, exhilarating and you get to venture a lot further down the river.
A peak through the bush along the walk
But back to my walk - the lower lookout spot is the first you come across where the views both ways up and down the river are quite something to behold, after a tough start to the walk it’s a popular spot to have a picnic or pause for thought. Further down the track you reach places where the pathway is literally carved out of the side of the cliff with steep drops down beneath. There is some farmland to cross before you reach Montane forest and shrub and come to a former coal mine tunnel which still has some old equipment left behind. It’s a short walk off the main track to this area.
The remainder of the walk up to the upper gorge lookout is largely uphill and is quite a slog in places. It’s well worth it though when you reach the end and witness the rugged mountain ranges towering up above. The perfect blue crystal clear water of the river surging through beneath on it’s way to the sea.
Upper gorge lookout
Rakaia Gorge, Canterbury
Coming shortly, where to ride your own sled dog team in New Zealand
An unforgettable weekend experience in New Zealand
I’d arranged to meet up with Underdog NZ at 10.30am at the Snow Farm to start my tour. After a brief talk about what to expect I was taken across to meet the dogs, and what a greeting it was. It seems the dogs absolutely love these tours and get incredibly excited about it all. I was smothered in doggy loves very quickly. There were a mixture of Alaskan Huskies, Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes all keen to get started. My human guide gave me a brief outline on how to use the kart and a demonstration on how to control the dogs – yeah right, it was more the dogs controlling me I think, and we were all set up and ready to go. I started off cautious, pressing the break to check it was working and trying my hardest not to tangle up the reigns. Four animated and eager dogs were ready to pull me along and I was a bit nervous at first in case I fell off!!! The snow was smooth but compacted and I had visions of being dragged along on my stomach by four excited animals. My concerns didn’t last for long, well only until my hands could no longer cope with the discomfort of gripping on so tightly! Within a few minutes I was riding the cart like a professional – well in my opinion anyway - and we were off soaring across the snow-covered landscape as one. Well maybe not quite. I had to get off on any upwards slope to take the pressure off my four-legged friends and help push the cart. I also spent a significant amount of time trying not to get them all tangled together so that the back two didn’t trip over the front twos’ reigns – there was a lot of responsibility looking after these keen racers! None of this distracted from the sheer joy of directing my dogs as we ploughed across the snow. The setting was majestic with the perfect clear blue skies reflecting off the brilliant white of our snow-covered carpet….
Underdog NZ at the Snow Farm, Cardrona
Loving Little River, the gateway to the Banks Peninsula if worthy of a stay in it's own right
Views across Banks Peninsula from the Okuti Valley Department of Conservation walkway
I’ll start with a statement - I love Little River, the small town on the Banks Peninsula nearly half way between Christchurch and Akaroa. At first glance this would seem a surprising statement as there really isn’t much at Little River. It’s a stopping off point for a bathroom break and/or refreshment. Yes sure there’s the lovely café with outdoor seating, the small art shop and fuel station. But that’s just the start, there is more, so much more.
Get out and about and you will uncover Okuti Valley, Birdlings Flat, Mongomery Scenic Reserve, French Farm and the Little River Rail Trail. There is also an excellent diner in town for breakfast, a stunning camp ground to sleep at and endless birdsong to enjoy. Heck there is even a silo to stay in if you so wish…..
Coming shortly more information about how to make the most of a fantastic few days in this peaceful and unexpectedly captivating location.
Kaikoura and kayaking with the seals
New Zealand fur seals in Kaikoura are a curious bunch. Kayaking tours take you out around the sheltered bays for one on one encounters.
Less than 3 hours scenic drive from Christchurch is the seaside township of Kaikoura. It’s the perfect short break after a hectic working week. Anchor Court Motel has reopened recently following damage suffered after the now famous 2016 earthquake. Directly across from the beach it’s floor to ceiling windows offer stunning views of the ocean complete with sunrise. This was the view from our room - we paid slightly more for a sea view but it was definitely worth the few extra dollars.
Kaikoura is a mecca for marine life and this is the main reason to visit. It also has some great food options which I’ll come to in a later blog. Folks head to Kaikoura to knock off some of those bucket list items which I’ll also get to later - swim with wild dolphins, learn to fly a plane, watch a sperm whale breach, even witness the mighty albatross fly overhead. It’s one of my very favourite places and an early morning start is always a must. Up early for the sunrise Dan and I headed out to meet the chaps from Kaikoura Kayaks, to hire a double sea kayak. They also do a few different guided trips which are well recommended but having done one of these previously we decided to head out on our own. After a very thorough safety briefing which came complete with some valuable information for future use we paddled out of South Harbour. The sea was smooth, the sky clear and the going fairly easy. We soon came across our first New Zealand Fur Seal lozenging around on the rocks. Up ahead more where in the water, rolling around attempting to cool off on this warm summers day. After a frantic paddle through the waves out at sea we reached Whalers Bay, only accessible by boat or foot. We kayaked through the shallow waters spotting fish and seaweed floating around in the clear waters beneath. Lots of seals were hanging out in this bay which is a popular area for the young males. They barked at one another a fair bit but were pretty laid back with us. We received a few odd looks and curious glances but on the whole they were more interested than bothered by our presence. As we approached the rocks some flopped down in the water, swimming closer to take a better look. We hung around on our own for quite a while until a Swim with the Seals boat appeared. Being so close to marine life, no matter how many times you’ve been lucky enough to experience it, is always a pinch me moment. Reluctantly we headed back to shore bidding farewell and wishing luck to our new found friends.
On the agenda.....
Hokitika, the former west coast gold town that still packs a punch.
So, we’ve all just come out of 8 seemingly endless weeks of lockdown when we all got to know our local streets a little too well. I feel I’ve discovered more about my neighbours kids and pets that I ever desired too….I’m sure you all know that feeling?!
But now it’s a new dawn and a new type of normal for those of us living over here in the stunning picture postcard country that is called New Zealand. Jacinda has set us free and we the lucky few are itching to travel.
Over the coming days I will be posting ideas on what to do in Christchurch in winter time. How nothing beats fish and chips by the sea in the former French settlement of Akaroa, how Le Bons Bay on the Banks Peninsula takes seclusion to another gratifying level and how Fat Pippis at Hokitika positively rocks…..
More to come with some awesome ideas to get you planning shortly.