Porpoise Bay the place to spot Hector's Dolphins surfing the waves

I began my exploration at the furthest end of The Catlins Coastal Rainforest Park. Here a small scattering of dwellings and holiday rentals border a lovely, secluded bay. On the morning of my visit the weather was calm and the beach enticing. It is known as Porpoise Bay, a broad golden crescent of sand which is so inviting you cannot help but stay and linger. As I strolled the scarcely populated beach I kept my eyes peeled across the horizon and out to sea. Usually Surfers ride the waves here but I had also been told that in summertime the very shy Hector’s Dolphin venture close to the shoreline. Hector’s are not only the world’s smallest dolphin they are also one of its rarest. They are only found in New Zealand waters and their numbers are limited. A resident pod love to frequent Porpoise Bay and have a fondness for splashing around and frolicking in the surf here. I began my search for them by scanning with my binoculars seeking their distinctive black and white markings and rounded dorsal fins. I soon realised though that I could ditch the binoculars altogether as just a few metres away from me not far from the beach were a couple of Hector’s dolphins playing in the sea. I am certain that they were pretty much unaware of their captivated audience as they rode the waves together. There is no need for boat trips out to sea in The Catlins, the dolphins happily meet you at the beach!

Dusky Dolphins everywhere - don't miss this.....

My final trip in Kaikoura enabled me to encounter what could well be the biggest draw card in the area, the huge pods of wild Dusky Dolphins that are resident here. The friendly folk at ‘Dolphin Encounter’ run several well-organized and eco-friendly trips each day to view and swim with these enchanting little fellows. They make it very clear from the outset that the dolphins are the number one priority and the ‘encounter’ you have is strictly on their terms. Kaikoura is universally recognized as one of the best places on the planet to witness these playful, gregarious and highly sociable little dolphins. As I maneuvered myself about the boats deck my first reaction was sheer amazement, where on earth should I look? There seemed to be hundreds of them and they appeared to be absolutely everywhere – soaring through the water at a rate of knots beneath and around our boat sometimes even spurting water up over me from the sides. The noise they made was incredible too with squeaks and dolphin chatter filling the air. It was almost as though the dolphins were as excited to see us as we were them. It felt as though there was so much charged energy all about and I couldn’t help but feel emotional and enlivened by their presence - and then they only went and put on a real show. I’m not sure if they were just showing off but it was remarkably humbling to witness close up their breathtaking jumps and acrobatic twists and turns. The imagery I had seen from watching episodes of ‘Blue Planet’ was happening live in front of me!

Bay of Islands paradise, dolphins and Captain Cook

The Bay of Islands premier holiday spot Paihia is an appealing place with three gorgeous sandy beaches, attractive waterfront accommodation, lively bars and restaurants. It is also the starting point for a vast array of water activities.  With over 144 islands scattered throughout the Bay of Islands not getting out on the water would seem rather criminal. With this in mind I joined one of the popular ‘Hole in the Rock’ cruises which I was told was a must do. As I peered over the front railings of the boat and did my very best titanic impression I was fortunate to spot several little penguins and even a hammerhead shark. These crystal clear turquoise waters teemed with marine life. Being at the front of the boat also had its advantages when we cruised out to Piercy Island and its famous ‘hole’. If the conditions are right the boat ventures right through the very middle of the hole and out to the Pacific Ocean beyond - a surreal experience. Sailing out around the islands we were told some fascinating stories. Robertson Island was where Captain Cook had anchored the Endeavour. My personal highlight was Black Rocks where only the tops are visible from the lava flow left behind about 1.2million years ago. The rocks are actually sheer cliffs which drop down to the sea floor as far as thirty metres below, quite incredible.  The climax of the trip for everyone though was the spotting of several fins surfing through the water as a pod of bottle nosed dolphins raced towards our boat.  They apparently frequent the bay and are spotted regularly. They love to frolic around and swim with the boats and were grandly applauded as they put on quite an acrobatic show.