Point Kean Seal Sanctuary, Kaikoura

Drive or walk along the coastline from Kaikoura township to the very end of the headland. There you will come across a small car park with a few unusual visitors of the ‘New Zealand Fur Seal’ kind. The rocky outcrop at Point Kean expanded much further out to sea following the recent earthquake and the seals are now spread out over a significant distance. However there are still some inquisitive ones that come in closer and will happily lounge about on the raised boardwalk or grassy banks. In the last couple of years I’ve usually only seen sleepy young males around these parts but very occasionally a young pup will join it’s mum and delight it’s audience.

If the tide is right take a walk further around the headland, being careful not to trip on the rocks and slippery seaweed. There are a lot more seals around these parts, hidden from sight. Be warned several will happily flop across the pathway and don’t much care if it was meant for our feet not theirs. I’ve regularly had to clamber up and around some grumpy seal who has been all to happy to bark and snarl at me. It’s still a treat to spend time visiting them though and as long as you are careful and don’t block their route to the sea, the only aggression you’ll experience is their bark. All bark and no bite……but never risk this!

Spotting whales in Kaikoura

Which is better is a tough question. Spotting Kaikoura’s resident sperm whales from the water or air?

Having been fortunate enough to experience both I can categorically say that the answer isn’t easy.

Nothing beats a sighting of a whale close up by boat. Bobbing alongside such a magnificent mammal is truly awe inspiring and even more so when the whale sucks in that last bit of air and arches its back upwards rising to the sky to sink deep into the depths below. The first time you witness this it simply blows you away.

The great thing about being on the water of course is that you also have the opportunity to spot other sea creatures and birds close up. Seals are often seen bobbing in the water and dolphins love nothing more than to frolic on the brow of the boat. There are heaps of rare seabirds in these parts including the largest of them all, the mighty albatross, which are often spotted on the horizon.

From a plane the view is very different as you’d expect and you have the benefit of being able to appreciate the full size and scale of the whale. The flight itself is quite an adventure - taking off from a grass runway in such a small plane whilst watching the pilot at the controls right in front of you.

The views of the Kaikoura Headland are quite spellbinding as are those of the mighty Kaikoura Mountain Range. The great thing about the plane trip is that it’s quick. Once a whale is spotted they can approach it much faster than any boat can which can really benefit a viewing. The whales only breach the surface of the water for a few minutes, taking in deep breathes of air before plunging down again. I was lucky on my trip and we actually saw a whale surface so spent several precious minutes circling just above.

So which is better, the plane or the boat? Hmmmmmmmm

Bethells Beach Sand dunes - sand, mud and yet more sand......

I followed an established track down to a clearly illustrated picture sign which gave details of the walk I was about to undertake.  At this point I had a choice – to take the slightly shorter route up over the sand dunes or to walk alongside the stream leading to the lake. I choose the latter.  Passing through a pedestrian gateway I made my way along a grassed verge until the sand dunes appeared as short distance later, dominating the landscape.  Huge black volcanic sands glisten in the sunlight above the stream.  I carried along keeping to the right hand side of the stream and negotiating the soft sand underneath my feet.  In some sections it was obvious that the path had been flattened and you had to make your own pathway.  Sometimes it was easier to simply wade through the shallow waters of the steam than to try to tackle the steep edges of the sand dune that could easily turn your ankle.

I soon figured out as I came across the orange markers of the Hilary Trail that I would have to cross over the stream at some point.  In some areas the stream is quite fast flowing and deep enough to soak you half way up your leg.  In many others it is passable with a long stride or jump or being prepared to get your boots wet. 

Across on the other side I came to a grassy path and as I turned the corner the lake appeared in all its glory.  Hidden away behind the dunes and surrounded by dense native bush it is quite a sight.  Just past this point is a jetty, slightly broken in parts but a good place to take a photograph.  The track around the lake takes around two hours and I chose to walk it clockwise.  Just after the start of the walk is a steep section to the highest point – not exactly over strenuous but it is quite slippery in the mud after a period of rain.  There is bush all around including prickly Manuka trees. The lake is nearly always visible from the pathway.  At the far end of the lake, around half way round I heard the sound of running water and soon realised I was at the lakes source.  Emerging out of the bush I came into a clearing with a small two tier waterfall descending into a water hole.  A sign here explains the Maori legacy and how small water holes such as this one were used by Maori to teach youngsters how to fish.  It is a pretty peaceful spot with nothing but bush all around.  I can imagine in the summer months it would be tempting to dip your feet in the water.  I continued my walk around the other side of the lake, in spots it was very muddy and difficult to negotiate.  After a while the bush clears and you find yourself on private land with signs stating to stick to the path.  The sand dunes again rear up in front of you welcoming you back to the very start.  It was at this point I noticed a sign pointing to a portaloo perched high up on the top of the sand dune, surreal. 

I continued the final part of the walk sliding down the sand dunes and wading back through the stream.  A great opportunity to wash the mud from my boots.  Be careful at the gate to take the correct pathway to the left as the right side is a private driveway.

Top tip:  take a boogie board and surf down the dunes, great fun.

McLeans Falls, the highest waterfall in The Catlins

In an area seemingly blessed with picturesque water falls McLeans Falls is another that easily catches the eye. It takes a forty-minute return walk through Rimu and Fuchsia forest to reach the 22-metre-high waterfall, the highest in The Catlins. I timed my visit at sunset when it is especially rewarding as the sun glistens through the tree canopy providing a surreal background to an already breath-taking location.

Purakaunui Falls, a photographers dream

If The Catlins did need a trademark feature to aptly define its beauty Purakaunui Falls would most likely be it. A photographer’s dream it has even made an appearance on a New Zealand postage stamp.

Framed by podocarp trees and native shrubs the three-tiered waterfall is positioned in a sublime setting. A pretty bushwalk takes you on an easy and relaxing stroll to the viewing platform. The Falls are especially impressive after a hefty rainfall.

Cannibal Bay a beautiful spot with an unfortunate name

Further south down the coastline is Cannibal Bay which was named by an early explorer who mistakenly uncovered human bones here without realising at the time that they were from a local Maori burial site. The name does little justice to this gorgeous spot which is the local hang out of the New Zealand Sea Lion. These chaps, whilst scarce in number like nothing more than to loll around on the beach especially in summertime.

Nugget Point remote weather beaten coastline

From Roaring Bay, I ventured upwards reaching the narrow and jagged peninsula known as Nugget Point. The cliff face here dramatically protrudes 133 metres above the sea level. Nugget Point like so much of this coastline is suitably weather beaten from both time and tide and a well-formed pathway took me on a breath-taking walk (both in terms of the blustery conditions and the steep drops below –scared of heights as I am I must admit to some moments of jelly legs). At the tip of the point the pathway ends in a platform overlooking the ‘Nuggets’ themselves. These wave-eroded rocks have been aptly named due to their resemblance to gold nuggets. The lighthouse here towers over the back of the platform and was built in 1869. It’s continuous flashing light has undoubtedly prevented many a ship wreck on this hazardous coastline. The view is spectacular out across the endless Pacific Ocean and beyond.  Nugget Point also happens to be home to a colony of New Zealand Fur Seal. In one way or another these guys always seem to choose the wildest least hospitable places to make their homes. They weren’t hard to spot and even less hard to hear as their barks blare in the wind. The babies were playfighting in the sheltered rock pools whilst the juveniles like all good teenagers, splashed around, charged about and generally showed off in the swell.

Roaring Bay home of the world's rarest penguins

I arrived at Roaring Bay a few hours before sunset when a certain exclusive resident starts to arrive home.  The Yellow Eyed Penguin is one of the rarest types found and its future is seriously threatened with numbers rapidly declining. They are only found on New Zealand’s South Island and a couple of other remote sub-antarctic islands. In The Catlins a few hundred now remain. I grabbed my binoculars and headed down to the viewing hide set up to enable easy scanning of the rock-strewn beach so as not to not cause the penguins any disturbance. The Yellow Eyed Penguins living at Roaring Bay are undoubtedly exceptional little guys surviving such inhospitable habitat. As they arrive home on the tide they almost look like ducks on the water until they clumsily belly flop onto the shore. Exhausted after a long day at sea fishing they then begin their slow trundle up the challenging terrain to their nest in the coastal vegetation. I was fortunate to spot three arrive on the beach whilst two were cautiously shuffling their way homewards. Their name comes from their distinctive markings described to me as yellow painted eye liner – such an appropriate description.

Curio Bay, a forest 180 million years old

A short climb up along and across the headland from Porpoise Bay is the area known as Curio Bay. It is itself a stunning place but a total contrast when compared to its elegant neighbour. Checking tide times here is crucial as for two hours either side of low tide an ancient geological site becomes accessible.  A Petrified Forest dating back an estimated 180 million years is revealed as the tide washes away. Buried over the centuries under volcanic mud and ash this place is quite simply amazing. A viewing platform looks out over the site and enabled me to take in the whole mind-boggling landscape from above. Steps lead down from here to the wave washed peninsula where I very delicately and tentatively literally stepped over history. The fossilized tree stumps and logs remain clearly visible to the naked eye. Some are bruised and battered by time, others are in much better shape and are almost intact, you can even see the ring markings in a few. It is remarkable at times what nature miraculously manages to preserve.

Porpoise Bay the place to spot Hector's Dolphins surfing the waves

I began my exploration at the furthest end of The Catlins Coastal Rainforest Park. Here a small scattering of dwellings and holiday rentals border a lovely, secluded bay. On the morning of my visit the weather was calm and the beach enticing. It is known as Porpoise Bay, a broad golden crescent of sand which is so inviting you cannot help but stay and linger. As I strolled the scarcely populated beach I kept my eyes peeled across the horizon and out to sea. Usually Surfers ride the waves here but I had also been told that in summertime the very shy Hector’s Dolphin venture close to the shoreline. Hector’s are not only the world’s smallest dolphin they are also one of its rarest. They are only found in New Zealand waters and their numbers are limited. A resident pod love to frequent Porpoise Bay and have a fondness for splashing around and frolicking in the surf here. I began my search for them by scanning with my binoculars seeking their distinctive black and white markings and rounded dorsal fins. I soon realised though that I could ditch the binoculars altogether as just a few metres away from me not far from the beach were a couple of Hector’s dolphins playing in the sea. I am certain that they were pretty much unaware of their captivated audience as they rode the waves together. There is no need for boat trips out to sea in The Catlins, the dolphins happily meet you at the beach!

Quite simply Kaikoura

‘Where the mountains meet the sea’ is the phrase often cited to describe the majesty of Kaikoura. An area of such outstanding beauty it cannot help but spellbind and captivate the visitor. Leading the way in eco-tourism and with so much going on in the area it has become an appealing year-round destination. A place where encounters with whales, seals and dolphins don’t remain just dreams on a ‘one day to be completed bucket list’ but become actual ‘pinch-me it is real’ moments.

Dusky Dolphins everywhere - don't miss this.....

My final trip in Kaikoura enabled me to encounter what could well be the biggest draw card in the area, the huge pods of wild Dusky Dolphins that are resident here. The friendly folk at ‘Dolphin Encounter’ run several well-organized and eco-friendly trips each day to view and swim with these enchanting little fellows. They make it very clear from the outset that the dolphins are the number one priority and the ‘encounter’ you have is strictly on their terms. Kaikoura is universally recognized as one of the best places on the planet to witness these playful, gregarious and highly sociable little dolphins. As I maneuvered myself about the boats deck my first reaction was sheer amazement, where on earth should I look? There seemed to be hundreds of them and they appeared to be absolutely everywhere – soaring through the water at a rate of knots beneath and around our boat sometimes even spurting water up over me from the sides. The noise they made was incredible too with squeaks and dolphin chatter filling the air. It was almost as though the dolphins were as excited to see us as we were them. It felt as though there was so much charged energy all about and I couldn’t help but feel emotional and enlivened by their presence - and then they only went and put on a real show. I’m not sure if they were just showing off but it was remarkably humbling to witness close up their breathtaking jumps and acrobatic twists and turns. The imagery I had seen from watching episodes of ‘Blue Planet’ was happening live in front of me!

Seabirds galore on an Albatross Encounter Tour

A morning Albatross Encounter tour awaited and I eagerly met up with skipper Gary to head out on the hunt for the mightiest sea bird of them all. Our boat was small and open-sided which meant a perfect view was to be had on this gloriously sunny day. Gary explained that one of the best starting points was to seek out the local fishing boats as sea birds naturally pursue these chaps hoping for some of their scraps. It didn’t take very long to spot some activity up ahead and our little boat surfed and jumped the pacific waves rapidly to reach it. Almost immediately we began being circled by some rare and exciting sea birds – Mollymawks, Westland Petrels (who I personally thought had handsome faces), and boisterous Northern Giant Petrels who happily scrapped with each other right by our boat as they fought over the chunk of ham Gary had tossed into the ocean. After a short while and a lot of happy photo snaps later we headed off again. This time Gary told us we were going further out to sea all the way to the edge of the Kaikoura Canyon. As the engine stopped and we bobbed and swayed about it was mentioned that the sea floor beneath us was at least 1km deep! Our eyes were thankfully more focused on what was happening overhead. We all silently waited as more and more birds began to appear. Gary pointed several specific ones out for our attention – the Hutton’s Shearwater and Buller’s Shearwater, a Wandering Gibson’s Albatross and a New Zealand White-Capped Albatross. An awesome spectacle was on display but the show stopper and the bird we all instantly recognized with a collective gasp was the Southern Royal Albatross. It soared across in front of the boat, a very close distance above our heads! For a bird with such a large wingspan (about three metres) it was wondrously graceful. It felt awfully surreal drifting about out on the ocean with the only noise being a raucous squeal or flap of oversized wings. Gary informed us that many of the Albatross we were seeing nest down in the Campbell Islands, 700km south of New Zealand’s South Island. Several of these Albatross have been tracked using satellite transmitters which have showed them capable of travelling up to 1,000km per day!!  Despite observing all these astounding over-sized seabirds my own personal favourite was the little Fluttering Shearwater – a tiny guy by comparison. They fly just above the water with a series of rapid wing beats – hence their endearing name.

Spend the night on a lavender farm complete with outdoor bathroom

Just north of Kaikoura is Lavendyl Farm dreamily situated beneath the lofty peaks of the Kaikoura Mountain Range. A stroll around the farms gardens introduced me to so many different variations of lavender that personally I had no idea existed. My accommodation for the night was at one of their two on-site petite cottages. This allowed me to wander the lavender gardens on my own after all other visitors had departed which was a real pleasure. A delight also was the private outdoor bath and shower I had at my cottage. My very considerate host had kindly left me a bottle of lavender oil and it was a delicious luxury to soak in the peaceful outdoor tub surrounded only by birdsong and bush. The following morning, I woke to find some freshly made bread wrapped up and left by the cottage door, gratefully received as I had another early start.

Swimming with the fur seals, in Kaikoura

Seal Swim Kaikoura afforded me the fantastic opportunity of mixing it up with the playful New Zealand fur seals. First though I needed to get dressed and geared-up for such an occasion, so I headed into the changing rooms at the back of their office in Kaikoura’s main street.  Decked out in a snug fitting buoyant wet suit complete with snorkel and mask I was all set to trickily wade my way over to the distinctive yellow Seal Swim Bus. During our short journey our enthusiastic crew told us all about the seals and how the location chosen to swim in changed daily dependent on the clarity of the water and playfulness of the seals. I was reminded that any interaction was at their discretion and it was crucial to remember that this was a wild encounter. Luckily New Zealand fur seals are a naturally curious bunch and as we approached in the Seal Swim yellow zodiac boat – yes there is a lot of yellow going on - the younger pups were soon inquisitive, peering down at us eager to discover what these odd things were! Impatient to get in the water I donned my face mask, set up my snorkel and gently guided myself over the edge of the boat. The sea water instantly felt on the cold side – it was the Pacific Ocean after all – and the waves a little choppy, but this soon mattered not one iota as I began to see movement around me in the water. Clambering about on solid ground they were a clumsy bunch, but in the water, it was a different matter entirely as they twisted, turned, spun and weaved, gliding through the water uninhibited. All the time I got the impression though that they were still being mischievously inquisitive.  I kicked against the tide putting my head down just in time to see a seal swim right up to my mask and peer direct at me. For a few precious seconds I literally was nose to nose with a fur seal! I struggled to think of an adequate word to help describe this amazing close-up encounter – perhaps honoured.

Spotting whales over Kaikoura

‘This whale is going to dive any second now, have your cameras at the ready’ our Pilot, Edward, shouted back from the cockpit of the small aircraft as we flew repeated circles around a magnificent sperm whale clearly visible just metres below in the clear teal waters of the Kaikoura sea. The ‘Wings Over Whales’ plane was set up perfectly to give every one of us seven passengers a perfect close-up view of any activity happening below. Sperm whales are resident all year round in Kaikoura as they feed off the ample quantities of squid that are present in the deep depths of the Kaikoura Canyon - a colossal underwater mountain range which begins just a short distance out from the shore line.

My experience began with a presentation about Kaikoura and the sperm whales followed by a concise but thorough safety briefing. Every flight appears to be timed to try to coincide with when they understand a whale may breach the surface – as each whale only spends roughly about ten minutes taking in air before descending vertically deep down into the dark depths below. The take-off along the grass runway was an experience in itself - before I even began to take in the majestic view out over the coastline.  It was the whales though that I really wanted to see, and I soon felt a rush of excitement throughout the plane as one was suddenly sighted. At up to eighteen metres in length these are true giants of the sea. From the air I was able to fully appreciate their substantial size and scale, from head to tail literally!

After experiencing such a buzz from the air, I figured that now I needed to get out in the water itself to encounter on a closer basis some of this area’s incredible marine life. You see the resident sperm whales are just the start, also present are huge pods of dusky dolphins, large breeding colonies of New Zealand Fur Seals and a staggering array of rare and unique seabirds.

Otago Peninsula, Pilots Beach, Little Blue Penguins coming home

The staff at the Royal Albatross Centre recommended I return that evening for a rather special homecoming. Each night at dusk huge numbers of Korora or Little Penguins arrive back at Pilots Beach just beneath Taiaroa Head on the Otago Peninsula. A purpose-built boardwalk allows visitors to experience the noisy and calamitous arrival without distressing or disrupting the penguins. Just as darkness appears to consume the shoreline the penguins begin to congregate into what is known as a raft to make a collective group return to dry land. As I waited silently I spotted dark shapes moving swiftly across the water as the rafts began to reach the shoreline. Loud squawks emerged out from the darkness. Then small dark silver specks started to tumble onto the beach, belly flopping ashore and then clumsily climbing up onto their flippered feet. And so, the penguin march began. It started with a few and then gradually these curious and cute little guys were all around us, scrambling over the rocky beach, meandering along well-worn penguin pathways to the grassy headlands above. Excited yelps cut through the night as penguins were reunited. Some paused for a while directly under my feet on the boardwalk. Others comically shuffled up a pathway to return shortly afterwards obviously having taken a wrong turn in their eagerness to arrive home. I checked with my guide who elatedly told me that over one hundred and fifty had returned that night, a thrilling result as numbers continue to increase following the protective measures put in place.

Taiaroa Head, Otago Peninsula, the only place on land to spot Albatross

A short way along the picturesque coastline from The Penguin Place is Taiaroa Head. Home to the world’s only mainland breeding colony for the Northern Royal Albatross. With wingspans of up to 3 metres the albatross are truly the giants of the seabird world. The first observatory opened here in 1967 and visitors now flock from far and wide for the privilege of seeing this mighty bird. I joined one of the guided tours at the Royal Albatross Centre to take a walk up to the glassed observation viewing area. Three nests where within sight and with the help of binoculars I peered across to the distinctive looking fluffy white albatross chick waiting for its parents return. A larger albatross hovered over another nest – I initially thought to protect the chick but was corrected by my guide who advised that this was instead a mischievous juvenile intent on bullying the youngsters whilst their parents were absent. The centre set up a successful Royal cam a couple of years ago on the headland. I was told that people worldwide have tuned in to discover the tenacious plight, adventure and achievement of the little albatross chick. Last year’s chick was named Tumanako and it fledged in September. After spending the next few years out at sea tracking across the Southern Hemisphere it is hoped Tumanako returns to raise a family of its own. I suspect thousands will be eager to hear news.

Face to face with the worlds rarest penguins - Penguin Place Otago Peninsula

Under our watchful gaze Todd shuffled awkwardly up the rugged hillside. Exhausted after a long day fishing out at sea, he had already conquered the lengthy walk across the wide windswept beach. He now faced a scrambled climb through bushland to his nest and hopefully a peaceful evening ahead. He stopped frequently to peer all around him to anxiously check for any potential predator. He appeared quite unaware of our small group a short distance away absorbed by his presence and keenly watching his every move. Our guides were great, constantly checking on Todd’s welfare and urging everyone to respectful silence. We were hurriedly moved along if any disturbance was observed for Todd is a very special little guy. He is one of a frightening low number (and sadly dwindling) of Yellow-eyed Penguins or Hoiho that still exist in New Zealand. Found only on the Eastern Coastline of the South Island these adorable little chaps with their distinctive yellow eye bands are the rarest penguin type in the world.  The Penguin Place at Otago Peninsula is an inspirational spot. They are open to the public for tours which take place usually as the penguins return home for the day which is a few hours before dusk. They help to promote the plight of these endangered little birds with all proceeds from the tours being put towards further research and ongoing penguin care.

The tour is an adventure in itself! I followed my guide through an underground network of camouflaged tunnels which have been elaborately and carefully built to reach deep into the heart of the penguin colony. An ingenious way of enabling people to get close to the penguins without causing them too much disturbance. I followed my guide Julia on a rapid march through the tunnels to the nest of Maggie, the only current resident female who was sat proudly guarding her nest. Maggie is quite a character. She previously ignored bachelor Rodd’s persistent courting ritual, to remain with long time partner Jim – who at 24 is the colonies oldest surviving penguin. However, this season Maggie has jilted Jim in favour of a younger intruder. Matai is from the neighbouring Catlin’s region and has invaded the Otago colony and stolen the girl! Such is the soap opera world of the Yellow-eyed Penguin!



Bay of Islands paradise, dolphins and Captain Cook

The Bay of Islands premier holiday spot Paihia is an appealing place with three gorgeous sandy beaches, attractive waterfront accommodation, lively bars and restaurants. It is also the starting point for a vast array of water activities.  With over 144 islands scattered throughout the Bay of Islands not getting out on the water would seem rather criminal. With this in mind I joined one of the popular ‘Hole in the Rock’ cruises which I was told was a must do. As I peered over the front railings of the boat and did my very best titanic impression I was fortunate to spot several little penguins and even a hammerhead shark. These crystal clear turquoise waters teemed with marine life. Being at the front of the boat also had its advantages when we cruised out to Piercy Island and its famous ‘hole’. If the conditions are right the boat ventures right through the very middle of the hole and out to the Pacific Ocean beyond - a surreal experience. Sailing out around the islands we were told some fascinating stories. Robertson Island was where Captain Cook had anchored the Endeavour. My personal highlight was Black Rocks where only the tops are visible from the lava flow left behind about 1.2million years ago. The rocks are actually sheer cliffs which drop down to the sea floor as far as thirty metres below, quite incredible.  The climax of the trip for everyone though was the spotting of several fins surfing through the water as a pod of bottle nosed dolphins raced towards our boat.  They apparently frequent the bay and are spotted regularly. They love to frolic around and swim with the boats and were grandly applauded as they put on quite an acrobatic show.