Nugget Point remote weather beaten coastline

From Roaring Bay, I ventured upwards reaching the narrow and jagged peninsula known as Nugget Point. The cliff face here dramatically protrudes 133 metres above the sea level. Nugget Point like so much of this coastline is suitably weather beaten from both time and tide and a well-formed pathway took me on a breath-taking walk (both in terms of the blustery conditions and the steep drops below –scared of heights as I am I must admit to some moments of jelly legs). At the tip of the point the pathway ends in a platform overlooking the ‘Nuggets’ themselves. These wave-eroded rocks have been aptly named due to their resemblance to gold nuggets. The lighthouse here towers over the back of the platform and was built in 1869. It’s continuous flashing light has undoubtedly prevented many a ship wreck on this hazardous coastline. The view is spectacular out across the endless Pacific Ocean and beyond.  Nugget Point also happens to be home to a colony of New Zealand Fur Seal. In one way or another these guys always seem to choose the wildest least hospitable places to make their homes. They weren’t hard to spot and even less hard to hear as their barks blare in the wind. The babies were playfighting in the sheltered rock pools whilst the juveniles like all good teenagers, splashed around, charged about and generally showed off in the swell.

Roaring Bay home of the world's rarest penguins

I arrived at Roaring Bay a few hours before sunset when a certain exclusive resident starts to arrive home.  The Yellow Eyed Penguin is one of the rarest types found and its future is seriously threatened with numbers rapidly declining. They are only found on New Zealand’s South Island and a couple of other remote sub-antarctic islands. In The Catlins a few hundred now remain. I grabbed my binoculars and headed down to the viewing hide set up to enable easy scanning of the rock-strewn beach so as not to not cause the penguins any disturbance. The Yellow Eyed Penguins living at Roaring Bay are undoubtedly exceptional little guys surviving such inhospitable habitat. As they arrive home on the tide they almost look like ducks on the water until they clumsily belly flop onto the shore. Exhausted after a long day at sea fishing they then begin their slow trundle up the challenging terrain to their nest in the coastal vegetation. I was fortunate to spot three arrive on the beach whilst two were cautiously shuffling their way homewards. Their name comes from their distinctive markings described to me as yellow painted eye liner – such an appropriate description.

Face to face with the worlds rarest penguins - Penguin Place Otago Peninsula

Under our watchful gaze Todd shuffled awkwardly up the rugged hillside. Exhausted after a long day fishing out at sea, he had already conquered the lengthy walk across the wide windswept beach. He now faced a scrambled climb through bushland to his nest and hopefully a peaceful evening ahead. He stopped frequently to peer all around him to anxiously check for any potential predator. He appeared quite unaware of our small group a short distance away absorbed by his presence and keenly watching his every move. Our guides were great, constantly checking on Todd’s welfare and urging everyone to respectful silence. We were hurriedly moved along if any disturbance was observed for Todd is a very special little guy. He is one of a frightening low number (and sadly dwindling) of Yellow-eyed Penguins or Hoiho that still exist in New Zealand. Found only on the Eastern Coastline of the South Island these adorable little chaps with their distinctive yellow eye bands are the rarest penguin type in the world.  The Penguin Place at Otago Peninsula is an inspirational spot. They are open to the public for tours which take place usually as the penguins return home for the day which is a few hours before dusk. They help to promote the plight of these endangered little birds with all proceeds from the tours being put towards further research and ongoing penguin care.

The tour is an adventure in itself! I followed my guide through an underground network of camouflaged tunnels which have been elaborately and carefully built to reach deep into the heart of the penguin colony. An ingenious way of enabling people to get close to the penguins without causing them too much disturbance. I followed my guide Julia on a rapid march through the tunnels to the nest of Maggie, the only current resident female who was sat proudly guarding her nest. Maggie is quite a character. She previously ignored bachelor Rodd’s persistent courting ritual, to remain with long time partner Jim – who at 24 is the colonies oldest surviving penguin. However, this season Maggie has jilted Jim in favour of a younger intruder. Matai is from the neighbouring Catlin’s region and has invaded the Otago colony and stolen the girl! Such is the soap opera world of the Yellow-eyed Penguin!