McLeans Falls, the highest waterfall in The Catlins

In an area seemingly blessed with picturesque water falls McLeans Falls is another that easily catches the eye. It takes a forty-minute return walk through Rimu and Fuchsia forest to reach the 22-metre-high waterfall, the highest in The Catlins. I timed my visit at sunset when it is especially rewarding as the sun glistens through the tree canopy providing a surreal background to an already breath-taking location.

Purakaunui Falls, a photographers dream

If The Catlins did need a trademark feature to aptly define its beauty Purakaunui Falls would most likely be it. A photographer’s dream it has even made an appearance on a New Zealand postage stamp.

Framed by podocarp trees and native shrubs the three-tiered waterfall is positioned in a sublime setting. A pretty bushwalk takes you on an easy and relaxing stroll to the viewing platform. The Falls are especially impressive after a hefty rainfall.

Cathedral Caves one of the worlds longest sea caves

Cathedral Caves are only accessible two hours either side of low tide. I struck lucky and arrived an hour into the restricted four-hour window when the tide was agreeable for exploration. A stroll down through native bushland brought me out onto the wide expanse of glorious Waipati Beach.  The caves are situated on the Western edge and as I crossed the golden sand I encountered not only a slumbering New Zealand Sea Lion but an inquisitive and playful seal. Cathedral Cave itself is one of the thirty longest sea caves in the world and it can be walked through from one side to the other although you must be prepared to get wet!  I removed my trainers and rolled up my trousers and began my wade through the icy cold sea water which had formed a deep well in the entranceway. Further into the darkness of the cave it soon became apparent why it had been named as such with its high sides and raised ceiling reminiscent of European Cathedrals. The acoustics were somewhat nifty too as waves soared across the beach and through into the caves creating booming soundwaves. At the very back of the cave I spotted a Little Blue Penguin having a well earnt rest in between the tides.

Cannibal Bay a beautiful spot with an unfortunate name

Further south down the coastline is Cannibal Bay which was named by an early explorer who mistakenly uncovered human bones here without realising at the time that they were from a local Maori burial site. The name does little justice to this gorgeous spot which is the local hang out of the New Zealand Sea Lion. These chaps, whilst scarce in number like nothing more than to loll around on the beach especially in summertime.

Nugget Point remote weather beaten coastline

From Roaring Bay, I ventured upwards reaching the narrow and jagged peninsula known as Nugget Point. The cliff face here dramatically protrudes 133 metres above the sea level. Nugget Point like so much of this coastline is suitably weather beaten from both time and tide and a well-formed pathway took me on a breath-taking walk (both in terms of the blustery conditions and the steep drops below –scared of heights as I am I must admit to some moments of jelly legs). At the tip of the point the pathway ends in a platform overlooking the ‘Nuggets’ themselves. These wave-eroded rocks have been aptly named due to their resemblance to gold nuggets. The lighthouse here towers over the back of the platform and was built in 1869. It’s continuous flashing light has undoubtedly prevented many a ship wreck on this hazardous coastline. The view is spectacular out across the endless Pacific Ocean and beyond.  Nugget Point also happens to be home to a colony of New Zealand Fur Seal. In one way or another these guys always seem to choose the wildest least hospitable places to make their homes. They weren’t hard to spot and even less hard to hear as their barks blare in the wind. The babies were playfighting in the sheltered rock pools whilst the juveniles like all good teenagers, splashed around, charged about and generally showed off in the swell.

Roaring Bay home of the world's rarest penguins

I arrived at Roaring Bay a few hours before sunset when a certain exclusive resident starts to arrive home.  The Yellow Eyed Penguin is one of the rarest types found and its future is seriously threatened with numbers rapidly declining. They are only found on New Zealand’s South Island and a couple of other remote sub-antarctic islands. In The Catlins a few hundred now remain. I grabbed my binoculars and headed down to the viewing hide set up to enable easy scanning of the rock-strewn beach so as not to not cause the penguins any disturbance. The Yellow Eyed Penguins living at Roaring Bay are undoubtedly exceptional little guys surviving such inhospitable habitat. As they arrive home on the tide they almost look like ducks on the water until they clumsily belly flop onto the shore. Exhausted after a long day at sea fishing they then begin their slow trundle up the challenging terrain to their nest in the coastal vegetation. I was fortunate to spot three arrive on the beach whilst two were cautiously shuffling their way homewards. Their name comes from their distinctive markings described to me as yellow painted eye liner – such an appropriate description.

The most Southern point on the Southern Island at the bottom of the world

My destination was Slope Point the most Southern point of the South Island and officially actually further south than Bluff itself. A bracing 20-minute walk across exposed farmland brought me to the edge of the headland. Here a well photographed yellow sign indicated the next place south in 4803km was Antarctica and the South Pole. As I took in the picturesque views across the horizon I realised I was standing very nearly at the bottom of the earth. It was a bit of a struggle truth be told to stay standing upright at times as the wind battered the headland. This to me though was all part of the fun, The Catlins wouldn’t be so appealing without the blustery southerlies shaping its striking landscape. Testament to this power of nature is the row of trees just by Slope Point that have developed an oddly horizontal lean!

Blue cod, New Zealand's South Islands favourite battered fish

Hungry after my morning excitement I headed back to the nearby settlement of Waikawa. I couldn’t let myself get too carried away as Waikawa is a very small fishing village offering a limited array of amenities. On my drive through though I spotted an interesting spot called Blue Cod Blues which caught my attention. An old converted caravan parked up at the side of the road is the local fish and chip joint. Blue Cod is a popular fish in these parts and is regularly dished up in take away outlets and restaurants throughout the country. I couldn’t resist dropping in for a freshly fried fillet of my own.  Now sufficiently sustained I resumed my journey along the unsealed gravel roads, a common feature in The Catlins area, where there is never a traffic overload.

Curio Bay, a forest 180 million years old

A short climb up along and across the headland from Porpoise Bay is the area known as Curio Bay. It is itself a stunning place but a total contrast when compared to its elegant neighbour. Checking tide times here is crucial as for two hours either side of low tide an ancient geological site becomes accessible.  A Petrified Forest dating back an estimated 180 million years is revealed as the tide washes away. Buried over the centuries under volcanic mud and ash this place is quite simply amazing. A viewing platform looks out over the site and enabled me to take in the whole mind-boggling landscape from above. Steps lead down from here to the wave washed peninsula where I very delicately and tentatively literally stepped over history. The fossilized tree stumps and logs remain clearly visible to the naked eye. Some are bruised and battered by time, others are in much better shape and are almost intact, you can even see the ring markings in a few. It is remarkable at times what nature miraculously manages to preserve.

Porpoise Bay the place to spot Hector's Dolphins surfing the waves

I began my exploration at the furthest end of The Catlins Coastal Rainforest Park. Here a small scattering of dwellings and holiday rentals border a lovely, secluded bay. On the morning of my visit the weather was calm and the beach enticing. It is known as Porpoise Bay, a broad golden crescent of sand which is so inviting you cannot help but stay and linger. As I strolled the scarcely populated beach I kept my eyes peeled across the horizon and out to sea. Usually Surfers ride the waves here but I had also been told that in summertime the very shy Hector’s Dolphin venture close to the shoreline. Hector’s are not only the world’s smallest dolphin they are also one of its rarest. They are only found in New Zealand waters and their numbers are limited. A resident pod love to frequent Porpoise Bay and have a fondness for splashing around and frolicking in the surf here. I began my search for them by scanning with my binoculars seeking their distinctive black and white markings and rounded dorsal fins. I soon realised though that I could ditch the binoculars altogether as just a few metres away from me not far from the beach were a couple of Hector’s dolphins playing in the sea. I am certain that they were pretty much unaware of their captivated audience as they rode the waves together. There is no need for boat trips out to sea in The Catlins, the dolphins happily meet you at the beach!